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Agree: looks like metal.

You sure about that? The IPL makes it look like the 135 has the typical modern Husky clamshell design...that is, it uses the plastic case for the bottom of the "motor." Stihl tends to "line" the plastic case with aluminum...at least on the 271/291 saws. I have no idea how much that bit of metal...

I imagine, what you will get here is not a "best" approach...but, rather, a list of alternatives. The on-site realities and your cutting history will dictate which method to try first. I would say, seems like a small tree to be having root-ball issues. Another pic showing the other side of the...

Well, based on the pics, you will want new rings... OEM or real Caber...either is fine, I say. BTW, I imagine you will be able to sell your old cylinder. Roy

My 2 cents. Based on the pics, you will want to pull the cylinder and see more fully what's up. I would not buy parts before that. You won't know, fully, what you might want. But...I would P&V test before the cylinder removal. The pre-tear-down test provides useful intel. Once you have the carb...

By my records, darn 311 weighs a bit more than the 10mm 044. In any case, the 311 is a very heavy 60 cc saw. I think, after the 311, Dad would be delighted with any of the 60 cc Pro Stihls: 034S, 036, MS360. Roy

If by "Compare," you mean lighter with, probably, more yank: 036.

I don't see the Stihl position either difficult to understand or grounded in ill intent. Homeowner saws (MS250 and such) get homeowner mount bars. Farmer (e.g., MS271...) and pro saws get the pro mount. Except the 880. Easy to understand. A total of three bar mounts...I call that, not...

Actually, there are Homeowner, Farm/Ranch, and Pro Stihl saws. The 029 and 039 use the same mount as the saws in your pro line-up. At 45 cc, the 025 is the largest Homeowner Stihl. Roy

No. But, you could use a 036 Pro cylinder...I believe. Roy

Cracks notwithstanding, I hope the OP understands there could be a couple more elevated-risk factors at work here. Well-dead trees with unknown-condition tops. Straight enough that lean is sometimes hard to detect (needing wedge pounding). Maybe, closed-canopy needing directional falling or...

Stihl did the big bore for you: 034 Super.

So, before working on a saw, it is a nice practice to track down the owner's manual, shop manual, and IPL (parts list). Get the owner's manual PDF free from Stihl. Get the other two by asking for them on the Beg For Manuals thread on this site. There are a lot of experienced guys on this site...

OK, I think it's great you're posting questions here. I have the feeling, you might also be well-served by watching some basic-maintenance videos. Cleaning the saw, sharpening the chain, buying the correct chain...stuff like that. As you probably know, The Youtube is full of know-nothing...

I see "Pushy" just not "Hard."

Excellent. But...hard as a carp...I guess the scales are hard, but the fish seems more generally soft and squishy. "Hard as a German carp"? Maybe they are different there? Roy

Those for a MS261?

FWIW: I have a running 036 on the bench. When I spin the flywheel by hand, I am getting a 1 psi pulse out of the impulse hose. Is yours less than that? Roy

Just the other day, guy had a saw pictured on this site with the piston in backwards.

I would pull the clutch cover and bar. Run the saw without those parts, and report how much oil is coming out of the oiler hole. I can't view the vids. The little bit of saw I can see in the one pic suggests you make need to clean your saw more often. Roy