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I would leave the original top port alone. Too many of them get opened up where the deflector gets bent upward and they burn the top cover and brake handle

I would add another deflector or pipe on the upper right hand corner. Modifying the original hole leads to added heat blowing on the cover, brake handle, and reflecting off of the log and can get hot on the hands

Ultra works great for the casual user. Most will never accrue enough hours to notice the difference.

Most muffler mods gain about 5%. To many, it’s not worth it, going from 20 seconds down to 19 seconds in a cut

Not certain. It’s all about getting it hot and burning off hydrocarbons similar to the cat on the 6400

That was easy because it’s the SLR tube from the 7300 and 7900. You’ll want the spacer as soon as you can. The 6400 has the Cat muffler

80% is a wive’s tale, a guess, as every saw is different. Some are still narrower ported (because of skirt width or flange thickness limitations) than others are stock. In that case, 100-150?% is probably more beneficial. Hp continues to go up with less restriction until 150-175%. Forgiveness...

Bit of a guess, but I think it’s a 372 crank. Inboard clutch so either that or 390. But it has the longer flat spot on the PTO side where it looks like the bushing would slide up to ride on the seal

There are different eras of a 261. You likely just gave him the incorrect meteor cylinder the correct Hyway cylinder. The main issue with them is the flaking plating. Hopefully yours is trouble free

Not much, but a little. I’m not really certain how the governor works if it has one. There’s a large diameter brass screw on the side of the carburetor and you can remove it and block off the inside with a disk from an aluminum can. The others I’ve seen are similar to carburetors from later on...

I never assumed you’ve put bearings in anything. I don’t have any of those bearings here to look at either. But I do know they are an offset bearing to make room for the seal, similar to what is on the clutch side of stihl. It’s not normal to walk into any sort of a bearing supplier and find one...

You can see the lip that the seal rides on. You’re not on it yet

I don’t have any more bearing specs than you do, Ken. The saws have been out for 20+ years. I’d think if there was a workaround we’d know about it by now

You’re not really paying for updates. The tool itself (without any updates) is just completely worthless without having permission to use a dealers ID and password

You would have to have a dealer login ID and info to use your own husky CST

They have must They must have multiple different sizes then. I just ported one today and adjusted it with the same one that fits a 372Xtorq, 395, 390.

Don’t get me wrong. I have no idea if your saw is getting hot from running lean or if it’s tuned too rich. Usually if they’re getting hot they will score up the piston. And I’d nix the IR thermometer. They will read 50–100° hotter or cooler just by changing the point of aim 1/4”. On top of that...

You should only ever run a saw full speed. That’s the only time the H jet setting works correctly. 3/4 throttle could potentially be delivering 20% more or less fuel than required. And yes, your saw is designed to be run all day wide open throttle without issue. No chainsaw needs to take a...

The newer .043 gauge mini picco stuff has thrown a wrench in the common chain file sizes

The redmax version has a different style limiter cap so I suppose yours could be different. Would need a pic of yours to confirm