The Stihl puller screws into threads at the center of the flywheel and then you tighten a bolt that presses the crank and pops the fly wheel loose. Simple and safe.
I always start with a cold saw. Preferably not started that day. That way you can show him how it starts cold. Warm it up then show him how to start it warm. This way won't have bothering you down the road.
Spent a lot of years busheling in S. Or. and Norcal. I preferred full skip if I had slick timber and full comp if I had limby ****. Full comp takes the limbs better and is easier to cut jack seats with. Semi-skip is a really good compromise. It all depends on the wood.
For cutting timber here in Southern Oregon most use a 461 with a 32" bar. Usually have a 660 with a 36 in the truck. Usually have a 42" in the toolbox for the 660 if needed. Not much you can't handle with a 32 if you slab the bark off and barn door it. This is softwood of course. The saws have...
I'm thinking 80 bucks shipped. Not really wanting to sell the saw at this time. I have a half-wrap to fit it I think. The handle bar is fully functional but less than perfect to look at.
I wear a 6 point McDonald T I've had forever. It's taken some pretty good licks. One time working up by Crater Lake Park I brushed a big Shasta pretty good with another one. I was chunking up the limbs that had fallen on my log so I could get my tape down it. When I came to [I had been knocked...
I started running 045's in 1976 and I don't recall ever seeing one with points. I also don't recall ignition probs with 045's. That seemed to crop up with 056's. You gotta remember these things are old, old. [like me]
I spent 40 years working in the woods in Southern Oregon and Norcal. 26 years as Faller and Bullbuck. I've found the chain is the most important part of your cutting equipment. A properly ground square chisel chain will increase your cutting Approx. 20%. Keeping your chain out of the dirt...