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I took 0.038" off the base. Stock squish was 0.024", so after base cut I'm at -0.014". This photo was taken after some rough-in on the lowers. It seems pretty common these days for porters to cut the squish band on the lathe. I find getting the jug zeroed in very tedious, so I often cut the...

There's two ways to lower the jug on these. You can do a standard base cut, but the flange under the transfers is only so thick. Or you can delete the gasket and do a minimal base cut. It's a beefy gasket. I am personally fond of gaskets. I even made a super thin one out of a beer can, but...

I peeled back the deflector and opened the baffle to about 80% of the port outlet. I had planned to weld the deflector back down, but I didn't like the way it looked. The finished muffler has a wide deflecor from @Red97 and some heat paint. Original spark arrestor slides right in.

A fellow tree guy brought me this Mark 2 for port work. I thought you folks might find it interesting.

Did you calibrate the saw for your elevation? That may help.

You might want to get another 201t. The latest version is pretty hot out of the box. T540…well they just aren’t as reliable. Try Dustin Wilt of WiltBuilt Saws. He’s in PA.

I wish.

I hear Dave has had a some pretty difficult family stuff recently. He’s a straight shooter. Are you sure the Stihl rings are chrome?

Run it. You’re right that the material is probably soft. The machining is probably not perfect either. It’s not ideal but as long as you don’t have grey transfer streaks, it should be fine.

Aftermarket pistons fall on a spectrum. Meteor are usually the best, Hyway is mostly good, many other unbranded AM pistons out there that might be okay or might not. Lil Red Barn (LRB) and Traverse Creek sell a variety of aftermarket pistons where price usually indicates quality. Golf pistons...

Is the 592 running okay at those elevations?

35hp is the middle of the road, do most everything size for a stump grinder. My experience has been that Vermeer is the most reliable and has good dealer support. Probably the most expensive too. Gate size is a major factor. Small machines may fit through a 30” or even smaller gate. Once...

Be certain your L setting is correct. They can cause exactly that condition. I have no idea how to block an accelerator on these carbs, but they are very similar to a 200t carb. https://www.arboristsite.com/threads/200t-carburetor-accel-pump-block-off.238372/ If that doesn’t seem worth...

I was thinking about this today. Normally I wouldn’t try to reduce the combustion volume with a bolt…but on a clamshell it might open up some porting possibilities. Most decomps don’t go into the chamber, but if it does on a 590 extending the bolt into the chamber should add compression...

At 16” the skip just made it slower. 572 should pull full comp chain up to 28”. 572 wouldn’t be my first choice. It’s heavy and computerized. 462 or 500i will deliver similar power at less weight but your going to pay. 372 low top will be lighter, comparable strength and cheaper. Plus it’s...

@Red97 has done a bunch of them.

I’ve got a nice oem 359 kit if you’re interested.

I think that is the primary application for the RollClip. I believe the Revolver was designed to reduce rope drag on long, wandering rock climbs. I have used both for crevasse rescue. Revolver is faster 3:1, 9:1 etc. the RollClip is nice for 2:1. I bet it would be very nice for hauling bags...

This. I wouldn’t take a 30’ whipper on a bunt hitch. I don’t want an open loop on my termination knot for sticks to get caught in. And I want it to untie without a fight. But you will see tree guys using Figure 8s and fisherman knots. Lots of guys prefer to stick with what they know. I...

Do you want to clip the anchor first or the rope? Petzl is better for rope first, DMM is easier to get the rope in and out of while still attached to something else. I think the sheave diameter is slightly larger on the Petzl RollClip.