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I got around to cleaning and rebuilding the hl166a.. But I have a question... It has no leaks.. But I cannot get it to popoff with a pressure pump and gauge hooked up to the fuel inlet.. I went to 25psi and it will not popoff.. I'm thinking this is normal cuz the diaphragm is has no pulse...

I believe you're right sir

The main reason that I converted to 3/8 picco on my 015 because of the availability of the 1/4 stuff... It seems to be a little harder to find than 3/8 picco I think you meant it has 80 Drive links not actual teeth if it had 80 actual cutting teeth that would be a monster chain but if by teeth...

WOOOHOOOO glad to hear it brother.. for 015 its stihl small mount...be sure not to confuse the medium mount with it.. i screwed up and bought what i thought was the large for my 08 but it was the medium mount.. stihl used to make large 14.1mm mount.. but i think it went away and the medium mount...

It was the last in the08s series then it was discontinued.. They last forever as long as you keep oil in the mix.. The oldest one I bought was the 08 which was the first in the 08 series.. The piston rings were seized in the cylinder.. I removed and cleaned the muffler... Put oil in the plug...

if you cant find the part then yes you could just cap it with something

gotta post a pic but 1128 family is 044, 046, MS 440, MS 460

You are correct sir.. My biggest problem is that the friction surface on the points are super worn down and the timing plate is advanced all the way to just get the timing set to the minimum setting... Need new points On the 08 The point where the points start to open can be set separately from...

The easiest thing is to modify a t handle screwdriver tool... Gfinf the tip down to make it wider so it grabs the screw properly..

i was planning on marking the fywheel like you mentioned ...

Another question... If I advance timing to the point of kickback during startup.. Does that theoreticaly I'm in I'm in the preignition zone during operation at wot..I would think yes but I'm not sure

Yes sir it would i want to verify.. Although I always say that besides the words actually coming from God's mouth... Numbers are as close to hearing the word of God we will get on this side of the grave.. They are absolute truth no more no less I want to make a degree wheel as well.. They...

i stopped ordering .. the last things i got were from spain france and some long bolts from china...about 1 week ago, i did the same thing... i was wearing a painters full face breather and gloves.. i opened em outside in the yard, straight into an alcohol bath.....washed my hands a few...

if my numbers are right, ir=ts much simpler than i thought , but only of course thanks to cosine and arccosine converters on my phone that is more than my head can tangle with but the way you broke it down made it make sense boss, i cant thank you enough... I OWE YOU A BEER or is it I OWE YOU...

thats the last version i need to round off my 08 collection. i remember the non brake ones from i was a kid, they were constantly trying to take a piece of my face out when i wasnt careful of where i put the tip of that damn thing..

it depends on the year of production, there are 2 sidebar plates i think may have only come on the quickstop version .. and they are damn hard to find.. the earlier non quickstop versions did not come with chain guards .. you can tell this by the fact that the sidecovers on the earlier versions...

I was thinking of that as well there's a delay from the instant the points open and the time it takes for fthe current to reverse and build the voltage in the secondary high voltage coil and then to make it to the spark plug..etc etc etc Man I thought the fórmulas were the problem but the delay...

Damn your some kinda genius That number seems much more in line with what it would be Could you break that down step by step for me... I'd really like to remember and use that math

I think it's gonna best that I make a degree wheel and mount it to the crank.. That way I could find the degree number that correlates to the 2.0 to 2.2 mm btdc that is recommended... Once I do that I'll ve able to easily figure out the correlation between the degree wheel and the dial...

OH my goodness that sounds a bit over my head