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While looking at old threads, some posts had attachments that are now missing. Sometimes there is a red X, sometimes not. Anyone know how to retrieve these? It's hard to figure out what's going on without them.

Scrape away the grass and weeds and dirt, to get a good look.

Pictures would really help here.

Leave the lower limb--cutting it would make the trunk move more, and starve the roots. "damping effect", "cytokinin" Don't worry--be happy. Hire a good local arborist--maybe the seller had somebody caring for it?

Get the grass away from the trunk--at least one foot. Carefully trace the loose bark. If you have trees falling down, you have good reasons to hire a pro to inspect and manage your patch of woods.

Learn how to prune so you can fix problems without killing assets.

Can you get the rocks off the trunk so we can see what's going on?

Looks like a bad site for advice. Still got the tree?

The hollow showing in the pic probly makes it about 3% weaker. Next side job you look at, bring in a pro who can show you how to do it! If you knew more you could've charged 2x or more.

TN is right. mower damage looks severe. Keep killing the grass out to the dripline. Cover with 2"-4" of woodchip mulch.

What kind of weed killer do you use on your lawn? I would recommend gently removing the liriope(?) and other stuff from around the base of the tree.

I have an elm that I drilled with 1/2" holes obliquely to bang in rebar for a permanent ladder, left side and right. Codit was great.

Pruning branches is commonly done; why don't people think about pruning roots?

If you want it gone, just dig or pull it up by the roots, then you can pull it off the trunk. Cover your skin and you'll be fine. It's good for wildlife and for fall color so we let it grow.

We don't have a lot of ash here in NC but the green bug has arrived nonetheless. From what I read and hear, drenching works on smaller trees but larger trees have to be injected for effective control. Is this true? Why or why not? What diameter is the threshold? I have a few big ash trees...

ATH is right about RCA = report writing protocols. I do a bit of legal work and reporting without it though. Education does not cost; it pays!

Use a pole pruner, and expand your concept of what a 'suitable' cut is. Simple to prune. Only needed every ~5 years, like most urban trees. http://www.historictreecare.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/05/restore_2010_06.pdf

BCMA is a much more useful cred for an arborist. I did the ASCA academy in 1996 but did not like the mandatory-membership aspect of RCA.

It's a live oak. Get it pruned. You control the parts above your property. Don't get scared out of your wits!

Dangerous? To a snowflake maybe.