Search results

Howdy, all. It's been a while since I've posted in here. Anywho, I've got a coworker's MS 250 here that is starting to irritate me. He said the saw was getting low on power and hard to start. I brought it home, checked it out and it also wanted to shut off after coming back down from WOT...

You've got some good suggestions here. Don't let anyone tell you that you NEED a bigger saw than the 260. At no more wood than you cut, you'll be tickled with that saw.

MS362 at 20" most of the time.

Thanks. I'm also looking for a rod bearing, crank seals and a clutch.

Hi all, A friend of mine brought me a saw he'd like to get running again, said it was his grandfather's. Then he showed up with it in it's very own carrying case (read: a bucket to keep all the parts together). Anyway, It's a pretty good shape 015. It's before the AV came out on that...

Also looking for Stihl 024 Service Manual and MS362 Service and IPL's. Thanks!

Getting ready to comb over a few Stihls. 009 and 009L. Anyone have IPL's and other literature on these? Thanks!

Couldn't find one of those for sale. This seems close, but I'm not sure if that's a fair price. Link.

I'd say there's your problem. How long was the pressure left in it? Just to check, bring the gauge inside until all the internals have the chance to warm up, say, overnight. Then try the test with the warm gauge. Perhaps the cold has affected the internals temporarily. Good luck!

I'm with the others, I see no reason to remove links during a chain's useful life expectancy unless you are running too many links to begin with and the tensioner is maxed out. Do you have an aftermarket bar that may be slightly shorter than a Stihl bar?

No problem. I believe all the pro saws from Stihl, and across most/all brands, have adjustable oilers.

I haven't run a Makita, so I can't help you there. However, one of the local racers around here built up a Makita and won't sell it to anyone...says he doesn't want to create competition for himself. I can put a few of your worries to rest for the MS362, though. It's a very smooth running saw...

Not sure where you got that from; it likely wasn't from running the saw (or at least a recent one). My MS362 has been great to date. The only issue I had was from me having it adjusted a bit rich on the bottom end. As far as comparing it to the 361, it's a tad bulkier, but smoother running...

The bar shouldn't move at all once you tighten down the bar nuts. If it does, you may have a problem with the studs or nuts. Once on an 024 I had forgotten to tighten them down when I was working on the saw in the garage. Took the saw out a few days later and didn't think to check. Sure...

Piston stops for use when you're remoing the flywheel. Keeps the piston from travelling past TDC so the engine won't turn over when you're craking on the nut. Odd....it placed "TDC" in there twice since it was on the line break. I typed it once.

Canon EOS Rebel XT that I love, but it's a bit inconvenient to carry around. Have a couple point and shoot Sony's that do a good job and have great response time. Have a Canon AE-1 laying around somewhere, but the EOS pretty much took it out of commission. Just picked the wife up a JVC...

Cheap saws are getting harder to come by around here, for whatever reason. If it runs well, I figured $25 would be fair, no more than $30.

I like it! I'm also sending my wife the link to your page, if you don't mind. She's a Kindergarten teacher, too.

Not sure how it runs. Guy says it ran the last time he tried it. Came across it on the net, and I'll be in the town it's in tomorrow or Sat. He's asking $40 for it, but I think that's a bit steep.

Alright folks, I came across a Poulan top handle and I'm just wondering what actually a fair price for it. I haven't held it yet, but I do have these pics: Anyone?