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I have a Norwood HD 36 manual mill, and charge $60/hr., plus transport & setup if I take the mill to the customer's location. This give me the option to pick up jobs that other mills can't afford to do by the board foot. On good logs, it averages around $.28/ bd ft, but on oddball stuff, may...

Holy smoke! There is no way I would mill those white oaks myself. I would check with a veneer buyer. Price of white oak veneer logs would amaze you!

I started out with a chain saw mill, but had a band mill by the next year, and it was a good choice for me. I run the mill part time, and do make some profit from it-- strictly a one-man operation.

There are some good YouTube videos of splitting logs with black powder. Fun to watch even if you don't plan to do it yourself.

I've done it with two powerheads... a Husqvarna 372 and a Stihl 066. It works fine, as long as there is good communication between the operators. Throttling up one mill too quickly can spin the clutch off the other saw. First time I tried it, I assumed that one saw needed to be upside down...

Heed Mike Van's warning about powder post beetles. You can treat the wood with a material like BoraCare (basically borax), which kills the little buggers when they chew through the wood. Keeps 'em from spreading. I had an infestation from some hickory firewood. Little piles of sawdust...

What it is (species) is less important than what it will become (furniture). Lots of potential there. Nice benches.

Might wind up with some spaulted maple, though. A little fungus can be a good thing!

Real eye candy... until I got to the photo of the main stem. That's going to be real interesting to mill. Should be worth it, though. Thanks for sharing.

That's not a lot to go on. Cut into the bark. If the inner bark is chocolate brown, you've got walnut. If it flairs out near at the base with buttresses, it is elm. Whatever it is, why not go ahead and mill it up. Post some photos of the wood, and we'll know for sure.

Babybart, right you are. The boards should cup down. Maybe I didn't describe it well enough.

Whatever you (or someone else) makes is going to be beautiful! Thanks for sharing!

I've tried several blades, and that seems to be pretty typical for high speed steel. I have some bimetal blades that I use for wood that I suspect has metal, but don't use them for normal milling. I like Norwood's Goldline blades, but have had good luck with the Lennox blades, too. I might...

:happy:I'll be right up to help you put it together & mill your first log (I wish). That's one of the prettiest De Havilland Beavers I've seen. Keep us posted... with more pictures.

What do you mean by "without any equipment"? I assume you milled it in place. With time & elbow grease, you could move the slabs with a come-along or boat winch. 12 V electric winch even better (wouldn't take much). You could build a skid to put under the slabs to make them easier to pull...

We're more about sawdust than spelling, and you're doing great (WAY better than my Swedish)! Whether to go with the band mill depends on how much you mill, but to answer you questions, I mill an average of around 400 board feet (about .95 cubic meters) of 5/4 (30 mm) lumber between sharpenings...

Nice work restoring the bottom timbers around that rock foundation. You're a man of many talents!

Great video on the mill, but I wonder if they actually made any money on that second (small, crooked) log? Absolutely beautiful bridge... inspiring!

Post oak does stand up well to the elements, but is much more prone to twisting and warping than white oak. You would need to get it SECURELY bolted down to the bed within a couple of days of milling. If possible, use just one bolt centered across the width of the board, with the part of the...

The way I see it, green wood is about half water anyway (that would be 100% moisture content). The only time I use a blade lube is when there is a problem with pitch build-up. Not usually an issue with our Ozark hardwoods.