athinking of just using a chimney cap during the summer months

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066blaster

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went up to clean the chimney today and found this mess. I have been using seasoned wood. 20190115_095549.jpg 20190115_095553.jpg it is about a 20 foot chimney
 
for many years my parents used a piece of wood and 2 bricks when the wind would blow just right or the A/C was on it would pull the air down the chimney and it could be smelled when walking past the stove.

in the spring they would send me up to put it on and in the fall send me up again to take it down.

their roof is only a 5/12 pitch and being a ranch easy to get on from a 10 foot step ladder

more frequent cleaning also.
 
About three years ago,in the spring,i had four Starlings come down the flue pipe-so i open the door and they fly out,to an open window....
 
When was the last cleaning?
I cleaned the chimney around nov 1. this cap had some glossy creasote on it but not that bad, nothing even close to being plugged. been burning mostly red elm, hickory, american elm. seasoned 1-3 years been in shed or garage since Oct
 
That’s a lot of build up for that time frame, I understand your concern. How about a pic of your stove?
i have a insert. insulated around opening. i run it pretty hot. since it has been fairly warm i haven't been loading and choking at night either. I have just been letting it burn out at night and relighting it in the morning. I was going to have a stainless liner put in a couple years ago, but it was some craigslist hack. the guy didn't have enough stainless with him and was gonna use aluminum dryer vent for the top 5 foot. so i paid him for the cleaning he did and sent him down the road.
I am slightly concerned about having a liner put in. not sure if the creasote issue would continue or be worse
 
No offense but it sure looks like whatever seasoning your doing is half what your wood needs! Do you have a moisture meter to provide us with moisture content on your wood? Curious if your insert is a older pre-secondary burn or Cat style? Slammer install or direct connect? Is your cleanout closed and sealed well to eliminate cold/cool air infiltration? Is the chimney indoors or exposed on a outside wall? Something is goofed up if your fuel is truly seasoned correctly.
A insulated liner will help significantly. Fill us in. Always interested in chipping in! That pic would make me very nervous. Stay safe.
 
No offense but it sure looks like whatever seasoning your doing is half what your wood needs! Do you have a moisture meter to provide us with moisture content on your wood? Curious if your insert is a older pre-secondary burn or Cat style? Slammer install or direct connect? Is your cleanout closed and sealed well to eliminate cold/cool air infiltration? Is the chimney indoors or exposed on a outside wall? Something is goofed up if your fuel is truly seasoned correctly.
A insulated liner will help significantly. Fill us in. Always interested in chipping in! That pic would make me very nervous. Stay safe.
it is an older insert, it has a very large fire box. chymney is outside. the other flue is for a grill or fire by our patio. the wood i have been burning was dead when i cut it , split and stacked for at least a year. we did have a rainy late summer and fall

the flue itself doesnt have any build up
just a thin gloss
 
I would ditch the mesh put an extra 3 ft to the flue fit the foul weather cap & see how you go after de gooing t he pipe a MM to check your fuel is less than 20% moisture content & as they say "Suck it & see "
 
I wouldn't put a steel liner in unless it was an insulated one, and it looks like you might have to break out & remove your clay liner to get enough room to do that. Which I might all do anyway, because nothing performs better than an insulated steel chimney or liner.

Do you have a cleanout on the bottom of your chimney? If so, is the access to it closed up tight tight? If there is any opening at all down there, it will suck cold air in and cool the gasses too much.

Having said all that - the mesh might end up making creosote anyway (it might make a lot in the short time you are starting up a fire - that's when things are dirtiest & coldest). So I would for sure get rid of that mesh, regardless. You could replace it with something with bigger holes in it, in the spring, if birds getting in or something like that would be a concern.
 
it is an older insert, it has a very large fire box. chymney is outside. the other flue is for a grill or fire by our patio. the wood i have been burning was dead when i cut it , split and stacked for at least a year. we did have a rainy late summer and fall

the flue itself doesnt have any build up
just a thin gloss

Likely you are battling a few things. Inefficient insert (not life or death if your fuel is dry).
Outside masonry chimney that is likely cooling flue gasses quickly. The adjacent flue is very near your active one. Being open to outside air it may be cooling your active flue big time (maybe plug the bottom and top to keep the cool air from passing through it?). Think seriously about getting the insulated liner installed. Even if removing the clay liner is required.
Wood moisture content example. I watched a dead Elm in my grove stand for 3-4 years before I got to it this fall. It finally blew over in a storm before I got it dropped! I cut and split it immediately. I was hoping it would be much drier. Nope 39% up to the out of limits range on my meter! One year will be lucky to get this seasoned being stacked single row in full sun and wind. Standing dead means little. Until its split it isn't drying much. Contrary to what some still believe.
 
Likely you are battling a few things. Inefficient insert (not life or death if your fuel is dry).
Outside masonry chimney that is likely cooling flue gasses quickly. The adjacent flue is very near your active one. Being open to outside air it may be cooling your active flue big time (maybe plug the bottom and top to keep the cool air from passing through it?). Think seriously about getting the insulated liner installed. Even if removing the clay liner is required.
Wood moisture content example. I watched a dead Elm in my grove stand for 3-4 years before I got to it this fall. It finally blew over in a storm before I got it dropped! I cut and split it immediately. I was hoping it would be much drier. Nope 39% up to the out of limits range on my meter! One year will be lucky to get this seasoned being stacked single row in full sun and wind. Standing dead means little. Until its split it isn't drying much. Contrary to what some still believe.
my flue is 13x13 ,,the stove is running alot better now. I guess i should buy a moisture meter. I'm not sure what else I could do to get the wood to dry more.
20190116_085341.jpg 20190116_084925.jpg
 
I've always kept an open chimney during burning months than capped it in the spring to eliminate backdraft odor.

Like mentioned, get rid of the arrestor or simply uncap.
 
Good to hear things are working better. Sounds like your current clay liner is large enough for a insulated 6"or 8" stainless liner. Most new inserts with a few exceptions require the 6" vent. Something to consider if you decide to put one in. Do you know what your current stove requires? Even if it is 8" you are still considerably oversized at 13"X13". Guessing you would get see a performance boost and considerably less buildup with a correctly sized liner.

If you want to try a moisture meter cheaply pick up one of these. I've had one for a handful of years and it still works fine. Most box stores have them as well. It can be a real eye opener when you start checking your supply. Drying wood is just a matter of time in my experience. It always takes me longer than I had hoped!

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Digital-Mo...=item3d425d4a7d:g:AJkAAOSw7kVbBqI0:rk:10:pf:0


Doing some research on the Arrow stoves was interesting. Sounds like they were ahead of there time in some respects. They eventually ended up being manufactured in my home state. Ive only come across one here and it was a freestander.
 
my flue is 13x13 ,,the stove is running alot better now. I guess i should buy a moisture meter. I'm not sure what else I could do to get the wood to dry more.
View attachment 697330 View attachment 697331
Your area has a lot of humidity, you may need an extra amount of time for seasoning the wood. Even standing dead still needs time to season, I’d plan on giving your firewood at least2 yrs after splitting to season, your mileage may vary.
 
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