Discussion in 'Firewood, Heating and Wood Burning Equipment' started by CaseyForrest, Mar 18, 2017.
II saw these at the local depot this morning.
Looks like dunnage off a semi truck that you set a load on so you can fork lift it on and off. Low grade hardwood, usually bowed, bent, twisted and possibly seriously stresses. They may be cheap but they are not good for much except dunnage and fire pits. Cribbing maybe if cut short. Never seen them for sale in a box store before.
That's quite expensive if the timbers are not "A" grade. We sell a rough cut 8ft 4x6 for about $18... a straight usable one!
Cheaper than a sacrificial PT 4x6.
this is the ideas I am looking for. Good to see what works and potential trouble spots.
Here is some food for thought. for 750 with no wood on top that's not too too bad. when you consider the price of the metal, blasting and powder coat. i think the metal would give it a bit stiffer frame and just replace the wood as they rot out on top, or get eaten up on top by the chainsaw.
Almost thinking one of the Mennonites around me could make a frame sorta like it and throw would ontop of it too, and maybe my compact tractor could lift it maybe
Post number 7 shows a log deck/bench I built several years ago out of wood.
The top has been redone a couple times, each with a few improvements.
The sides are 4"x 6" sheeted with 3/4" treated, fastened with #10 or #12 screws and fender washers.
Cross ties are bolted 2" x 12"s.
The feet need to sit on a board because of the weight when loaded, which is about a quarter cord.
What I would do different is make it 3 1/2" shorter in height. Then double the thickness of the cutting bench, double 4" x 6", and add filler on the rest to make the deck even.
The deck slopes slightly, but not much.
Also the cutting bench is cantilevered so the frame is not in the way of feet.
When cutting the top gets cut up pretty deep and becomes more flimsy than I like when there is bigger stuff on it. Doubling would make replacing the top easier and stretch out the need for replacements much longer.
You do need a way of moving it to clean out bark and dirt from underneath. I clean mine a couple times a year, usually if I have to move it to get a log truck in.
If you know someone with a saw mill it could be built a lot cheaper.
Some photos ( all repeats)
Takes about four hours to do a cord (four pallets) from the log pile to covering and staging pallets.
Edit: Decking over the smaller one makes it more difficult to roll logs at times. I have to keep it clear of loose bark.
Comments on the WolfRidge video and pictures.
They are showing ideal conditions with pole straight logs.
Anything other than straight and the saw binds in the kerf. Keep your noggin back, and place a plastic felling wedge in the kerf.
First thing I notice in the video is the log deck needs to be turned 90º so he is not walking so much.
The obvious one is a round rolling on the ground because there is no lip.
In the photos the logs ends are all nicely lined up. In real life that doesn't happen unless they are pushed or pulled with muscle or a peavy.
They show double stacked. Right. Looks productive but again, the reality is screwing around to place logs that way, and then saw binding in the cut, and possible kickbacks.
This is why I reposted the photos post #128.
Agree with you Sandhill. Mine is similar to yours with the only difference being I don't use a 4x6 on the end. I use a 2x10. I don't use a production table so my bucked pieces sit on the ground until I am ready to split them. Mine is a tich high so this spring I will lower it about 10".
I never have perfect logs. They are never 8' on the nuts and they aren't round. This load we were lazy and have way to many knobs where I didn't cut branches flush enough so it is more of a pain. rolling them. I'll get a picture when I can get out in the daylight.
I did that also but after somewhat short use, the 16" sections between saw cuts split off from rolling logs against them. Sometimes I get a log roll off the front when loading with the forklift. Have to make sure the saw is clear from front and sides when loading deck. For what it is it works pretty good.
This photo shows a 2" x 10" across the front of the table with short 2" x 4" vertical supports. I would cut half a cord of rounds and then split.
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