Central Boiler vs Wood Master

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

hockeypuck

ArboristSite Operative
Joined
Sep 12, 2006
Messages
115
Reaction score
10
Location
Southern NH
I have narrowed it down to these two wood boilers. I am trying to choose between forced draft and convention draft and also trying to figure out if the foam insulation is good or bad. I have have heard that the foam could cause the steel water jacket to rust out sooner than the fiberglass bats.

Thanks in advance,

'puck

PS I will be burning mainly soft woods. This is the reason why I am getting the outdoor furnace. I have 30 acres of mostly soft wood.
 
Central boiler.
foam insulation is the best way to go.
Wood masters are pretty good stoves but I would go with the central boiler for the foam insulation + the fire box with the big down baffle in the back really make this stove eff.
Jack
 
What type of wood do you burn?

What type of wood do you burn in your boiler and how many chord (real chords) of wood do you use. I have a well insulated house and have 2000 square feet of living space and 600 feet of garage I want to heat? My hot water is also heated indirectly off of my boiler, so I will be heating that as well.

Puck
 
After searching and studying for months I came to the conclusion that there is no clear cut winner when it comes to type of draft and several other features like shape and material. I also came to the conclusion that there are few unsatisfied outdoor boiler owners. I talked to dozens of stove owners and other than one that could obviously screw up an anvil, I have yet to talk to one that wished he didn't own his boiler. I choose the Woodmaster made of 1/4 mild steel. One of several reasons was the insulation for (maybe) an odd reason, repair. If I ever have jacket problems I can remove the siding and blanket and the jacket will all be right in front of me for patching. A CB unit with jacket problems looks to me like a candidate for the scrap heap. However I don't mean to knock CB or any other make nor claim to have the best one made. Woodmaster has been in business a while and the dealer was great so they got a sale. My supply of cherry is limited and mine will primarily see less desirable wood like sycamore, white elm, even some cotton because that is what is in my 20 acres of woods.
 
If you need to make a repair on a central boiler it is a very easy, just use spray foam for the patch work on the insaltion.
Jack
works for me.
 
hockeypuck said:
What type of wood do you burn in your boiler and how many chord (real chords) of wood do you use. I have a well insulated house and have 2000 square feet of living space and 600 feet of garage I want to heat? My hot water is also heated indirectly off of my boiler, so I will be heating that as well.

Puck

I would say about 3 to 6 cords of good Hardwood, I never burnt soft wood.
Jack
 
Dealer service is really what helps out alot, go with a good dealer.
Jack
 
We love our Central Boiler!

We bought a Central Boiler about a year ago and I installed it late last fall. So far it has worked great. We save about $200 a month in fall/winter in electric heating bills. I see $100 bills when I load the firebox with wood. This system will pay for itself in less than 6 years of use here in central west Oregon. We can also set the thermostat to any temp that we want, and stay warm and comfy all winter in any weather.

I looked at several outdoor wood boilers before we decided on the CB 4436. Taylor, Woodmaster and CB were the most commonly recommended by local
plumbers and energy contractors. The CB has a great warantee (25 years) is made of thick steel, and they are available through a local dealer near here. CB has been around for a while, and many others have not or are no longer in biz. They also have smaller systems that better matched our needs. Post-sales support has been good from both the local rep and the factory. Calling the factory is a breeze and you get to talk to someone that knows a lot and actually speaks English!

I installed our system to heat our pre-existing solar pre-heated domestic hot water and hydronic floor heating. The boiler loop goes through two flat plate
heat exchangers; the first on the water heater and the second for the pressurized floor loop. The floor loop has a separate pump and the water heater works by simple convection. We burned about 3 cords last winter, starting in early January in a cold Oregon winter. OK, cold here is 15 degrees, and nothing compared to New England or the upper midwest... but it is still cold for us!:bowdown:

As for wood types, I have burned lots of woods in there, as we have a lot of species here... light woods: Grand fir, cottonwood, willow; medium woods: Boxelder maple, apple, plum, doug fir, alder, hazelnut; heavy woods; white and black oak, black walnut, madrone, bigleaf maple. Hardwoods put out a lot less creosote than do firs and pines, but that is not a big issue. I just scrape down the sides of the boiler and the creosote burns off. I have also burned old urnature, scrap wood, sawdust, wet rotted wood, green wood, bruch, and
cardboard. Just about anything other than garbage and treated wood (or plywood/strandboard). It also burns LARGE logs... which means less cutting and all but no splitting for me.

As for some potential faults or features mentioned here about CB; the smoke does pour out from the door is if the damper has been closed. This is because the firebox is designed to trap heat (and smoke) at the top of the burn area. Open the door and you release the heat and smoke with it. I found that if I crack the door open for a minute while I fetch a log to throw in there the smoke will vent out the stack and not hit me in the face when I open the door wider. Some people fault the mild steel option and recommend stainless steel. I think stainless steel is not needed. The rep talked us out of the stainless option, and he was right. After a year there is no rust in the firebox, and the corrosion inhibitor on the water side should keep any rust from occuring. Stainless is $1,000 more, and it does not transfer heat as well as mild steel does. I have also found that the natural draft is more than enough to create an inferno in the firebox without a forced air fan, so I do not see why anyone would need the forced draft option. When the damper is closed on our CB, I hardly notice any smoke and sometimes I have to peek inside to see if the fire is still going... and when the damper is open, it puts out less smoke than our fireplace does. Smoke seems to be the big political beef with these systems... and there tends to be a lot of disinformation about them floating around out there. Especially from some political yahoos in the Northeast.

Well, that's my take on the CB anyway. As someone else said here, most people become feircely brand loyal after taking ownership of an outdoor wood boiler. With good reason. The better ones work very well for the most part. :hmm3grin2orange
 
I have a Taylor T-500CB its going on it's seventh year! No problems with it. Its has more than paid for itself, as far as the the care of it goes you drain the water jacket ounce a year and put two Quarts of chemical and a Anode rod in it and you're good! I've seen a LOT of them that are from 15 to 30 years old that still work great! God luck with your purchase! Kalib
I have narrowed it down to these two wood boilers. I am trying to choose between forced draft and convention draft and also trying to figure out if the foam insulation is good or bad. I have have heard that the foam could cause the steel water jacket to rust out sooner than the fiberglass bats.

Thanks in advance,

'puck

PS I will be burning mainly soft woods. This is the reason why I am getting the outdoor furnace. I have 30 acres of mostly soft wood.
 
We installed a Woodmaster 3300 on December 3, 2008. We live in northeast PA (Harvey's Lake area) We heat 1250 sq. ft. to 74* and my domestic hot water. I load it 3/4 full twice a day with mainly cherry, ash and hickory (I'm into the hickory now just at the right time. -7 this morning). I've burned about a full cord and a half so far. We love it. Very simple to operate. I too considered CB but more expensive and didn't like the wavy baffles in the top of the fire box. They looked like an area that wouldn't get good flow and sediment from our water would settle in there and shorten the llife of the boiler. Liked their Thermopex underground pex though. I install a brand very similar to that (100 ft x $11.56 ft.) and I have no snow melting on the ground above it. Also very little creosote.
John
 
I've got a woodmaster 4400, it came with the house so I didn't make the decision but I'm very pleased with it. Only problem I have had was I had to replace the level sensor for the water level light, which was easy to get at because I could pull off the siding and push the insulation aside. The part was $80 which seemed a little expensive. I have not seen a CB in action but I am sure both companies make a quality boiler. I would think the forced draft models would smoke less. Once mine gets going there is no or very little visible smoke at all. It only smokes the first cycle after loading or for a few seconds at the beginnign of the cycle.
 
Stainless is $1,000 more, and it does not transfer heat as well as mild steel does.

:hmm3grin2orange

I would disagree with that statement. I work alot with stainless and this becomes REAL evident when welding on it as it transfers VERY quickly compared to mild steel. Did your salesman tell you that?

I have a SS CB and am very happy with other that the ash removal. I made up an auger so it's not bad now but they should come up with something to make it easy. I've had it 6 years now with no problems. -20 degrees here today before windchill and it's keeping up fine. Heating 1800 sq ft 2 story house with full basement, 1800 sq ft attached garage and domestic hot water. Using 9 - 15 cord depending on Winter and wood quality. Wood is indoor stored and seasoned but we cut whatever falls or needs to be removed no matter the species.

I researched them as well and either of your choices will be fine. Dealer location IS critical as if something goes wrong in the dead of Winter waiting 3 days for a part is not a good thing ;)
 
Woodmaster makes a very good product.

Between my dad, myself and my neighbors, we have 6 Woodmaster stoves of various sizes. The oldest being 7 years old. They have been great. No Porblems. I personnally would not buy a stove without the forced air fan (in the back and the front). If CB offers that as an option and you like that one, buy it it (I have never heard a bad word about CB). I'm just letting you know that we have had no problems. I also like to throw some big junks of wood in when the fire is down and know that it is going to go (with the forced air fan blowing air right into you fire box). Good luck. You'll like whatever you buy (of those two products).
 
Heatmor stove

You should really check out heatmor before you buy.

Non of the systems your looking at have the features you will most need over the long haul

1. Expansion balder.... eliminates the need to add water and you wont be continually adding hard untreated water to your system.

2. Open bottom fire box heatmor uses sand under the fire to temporally absorb moisture from the wood the is given off during off cycles. This will greatly extend stove life.

4.Stainless Stainless Stainless...Not 304 but 409!

Mark

Not a heatmor dealer
 
I like my CB installed it in fall 08. I don't see any need for forced draft I burn mixed wood and have not had a problem burning any of it.(White Birch, Pine, Popple, Boxelder, Ash, Beech, Oak, Hickory, Butternut, Black Walnut. My goal was to save as much on utility costs as possible and running extra fans would not help me acheive that. There are a lot of nice units out there and it's a tough decision. I am sure you will be happy with any OWB. Good luck with your purchase.

:cheers:
 
You should really check out heatmor before you buy.

Non of the systems your looking at have the features you will most need over the long haul

1. Expansion balder.... eliminates the need to add water and you wont be continually adding hard untreated water to your system.

2. Open bottom fire box heatmor uses sand under the fire to temporally absorb moisture from the wood the is given off during off cycles. This will greatly extend stove life.

4.Stainless Stainless Stainless...Not 304 but 409!

Mark

Not a heatmor dealer

Was wondering about point 1. I've had mine (SCL5648SB CB) for 6 years and have not put any water in it since the original fill. I check it about 3 times a season but no movement in level. Is it common to have to add water all the time? I'm running my water temp at 177 - 185 if that makes a difference. I guess it safe to say I don't have any leaks ;)
 
Back
Top