Try VE Peterson http://www.vepetersen.com/
They are the main US distributor for Tillotson parts. If they don't have it they may be able to recommend a sub.
Homelite Chainsaws
- Thread starter briantutt
- Start date
Help Support Arborist Forum:
Try VE Peterson http://www.vepetersen.com/
They are the main US distributor for Tillotson parts. If they don't have it they may be able to recommend a sub.
I managed to find Walbro HDC springs on PepairClinic.com.There's another site called Ereplacement.com,you can try there as well.I also had the same situation with a Tilly HU carb.I couldn't find a spring anywhere,then a good friend told me about V.E.Peterson (maybe Petersen).They're located in Ohio.I bought ten HU springs & an HU kit because there was a $10 minimum on credit card orders.Good luck!
Ed
Ed
Thanks, Guys. I'll give V.E. Peterson a shot. May have better luck there than Ireland. And yes, I've had luck with Walbro springs from eReplacement before myself. Also have a few springs available from various kits. Just don't know how tight (or sloppy) the tension tolerances for the little buggers actually are from one spring or kit to another. Seems to me like the range would hafta be pretty wide just to accommodate the life of a metering diaphragm going from nice and supple to more and more resistant to the lever as it stiffens with age..., at least in my way of thinking.
ChainsawmanXX
Addicted to ArboristSite
Threw a quick paint job on this turd
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Not a bad looking turd.
Now ya need to do the truck.
Beetlejuice
Addicted to ArboristSite
If that's a quicky,?, I'd hate see a longy
Threw a quick paint job on this turd
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Found a NOS 70098 kit for the Tilly on the 150 but am a little confused now about which number is a good one for a 3/8's-7T spur sprocket. I come up with A-95619 for OEM out of an old IPL and 30432X for Oregon, but also see A-95458-2 as a popular OEM listing on the bay.
BTW, I tried a spring from an HDC and it was definitely too much spring for the Tilly. And boy is that carb linkage a pain in the ass to get back in place re-installing the damned thing. After cussin' at it for an hour I'm now guessing the easiest way is to hook the choke linkage to the carb first and then slide it into the choke button after the throttle linkage and carb are back in place? One thing is certain..., I sure don't wanna hafta get good at it!
BTW, I tried a spring from an HDC and it was definitely too much spring for the Tilly. And boy is that carb linkage a pain in the ass to get back in place re-installing the damned thing. After cussin' at it for an hour I'm now guessing the easiest way is to hook the choke linkage to the carb first and then slide it into the choke button after the throttle linkage and carb are back in place? One thing is certain..., I sure don't wanna hafta get good at it!
Found a NOS 70098 kit for the Tilly on the 150 but am a little confused now about which number is a good one for a 3/8's-7T spur sprocket. I come up with A-95619 for OEM out of an old IPL and 30432X for Oregon, but also see A-95458-2 as a popular OEM listing on the bay.
BTW, I tried a spring from an HDC and it was definitely too much spring for the Tilly. And boy is that carb linkage a pain in the ass to get back in place re-installing the damned thing. After cussin' at it for an hour I'm now guessing the easiest way is to hook the choke linkage to the carb first and then slide it into the choke button after the throttle linkage and carb are back in place? One thing is certain..., I sure don't wanna hafta get good at it!
BTW, I tried a spring from an HDC and it was definitely too much spring for the Tilly. And boy is that carb linkage a pain in the ass to get back in place re-installing the damned thing. After cussin' at it for an hour I'm now guessing the easiest way is to hook the choke linkage to the carb first and then slide it into the choke button after the throttle linkage and carb are back in place? One thing is certain..., I sure don't wanna hafta get good at it!
ChainsawmanXX
Addicted to ArboristSite
If it turns out as nice as the saw it'll be sharp.
Hey ChainsawmanXX, remember this day?
Mark
Mark
That turned out nice, Mark.
And sorry about the double post last night. The site was doing weird things and it didn't seem like it responded either time I tried to post. Been a little weird today, too.
So about this 150A that continues to give me grief...
Were they originally set up with standard 3/8's b&c? I ask because of the rather wide variety of sprocket numbers and options that would seem to fit the saw. Near as I can figure, this one is a straight up 3/8's needing an A95619 sprocket, but I keep getting cross-ref'd to other 'compatible' numbers with no real road map for what's what pitch-wise.
And sorry about the double post last night. The site was doing weird things and it didn't seem like it responded either time I tried to post. Been a little weird today, too.
So about this 150A that continues to give me grief...
Were they originally set up with standard 3/8's b&c? I ask because of the rather wide variety of sprocket numbers and options that would seem to fit the saw. Near as I can figure, this one is a straight up 3/8's needing an A95619 sprocket, but I keep getting cross-ref'd to other 'compatible' numbers with no real road map for what's what pitch-wise.
Not mine, his. I thought the carved starter handle was a nice touch...
Mark
Mark
Received the 70098 carb kit for the Tilly HK-3B from the 150A. Turns out to be an RK-2-HK . Quite a complete kit that evidently applies to two different HK's. Anyone have a breakdown on the HK repair details that spec which metering spring is used for which carb? Yes..., there are two included with the kit and they're distinctly different springs. I'd really like to avoid having to rebuild this carb and fight that linkage two more times if I can help it! There's just not much info out there on the HK series. TIA as usual for any assistance.
If I remember correctly,the old spring went into orbit somewhere,am I correct?If that's the case,then you don't have the old spring to compare it to.I've never had an HK apart,so I can't help you out.Sorry,but I'm sure that someone can help.If you were to go over to House of Homelite,I'm sure someone there could help you.
Ed
Ed
Thanks. I'd just try both springs to see which one worked if the carb wasn't such a pain to remove and replace. Almost Mini Mac territory. Just hoping to avoid the trial and error method if at all possible!
I know exactly what you're saying.I tore down a 150 last Feb.& still haven't even tried to put it back together yet.I'd like to know what the hell they were thinking when they designed the 150.
Ed
Ed
ChainsawmanXX
Addicted to ArboristSite
I do! That has been awhile. Out of all those saws I only have the 066 and the 046. Lol couldn’t tell you where the rest went.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Hi guys,I've got an old HL 46B that's giving me trouble.I rebuilt it with new seat,needle & lever,gaskets & diaphragms.I used an RK-88 kit which I was told by V.E.Petersen that was the same kit as the RK378 which are now obsolete.I put the carb all back together & put a drop of oil in the seat for the needle.I used a MityVac 8500 to put 10 # of pressure in the carb & it leaked down pretty fast.I tore the carb down again & put the old needle & lever in & had the same problem.How do I get the needle to seat & hold pressure?
Ed
Ed
