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How would you tackle this tree.

Rhygin

Rhygin

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Hello, I've been lurking for a while and now have a situation that has me a bit stumped (sorry, it just came out that way). We recently had 13 inches of rain and it flooded some creeks on our property. A huge tree came down across a creek and the root ball brought another with it-about 15 inches in diameter. It is suspended about 5 feet above the larger tree at the base and goes farther apart as you go. I don't want to leave it suspended because it is above a foot path along the creek. I thought about cutting from the root ball but that isn't a very stable perch. Cutting from underneath would probably get me crushed.

Has anyone here ever come across this or dealt with a similar situation. Thanks in advance.






 
northmanlogging

northmanlogging

The gyppo's gyppo
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western washington
long butt the stump on the big tree and the whole werks will likely stand back up, or stay where it is either way its scary.

starting from the top eventually will end up with the same results. stump will flop back into it hole usually...

if yer real scared werk the little tree back from its small end then lop off the stump
 
NIP Group
Rhygin

Rhygin

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North Carolina
I have a extendable pole saw. That is a fantastic idea. Then I can go after big boy. He's sunk in pretty deep but I've always wanted an Alaskan saw mill. I'll just cut until the dirt line.
 
Rhygin

Rhygin

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long butt the stump on the big tree and the whole werks will likely stand back up, or stay where it is either way its scary.

starting from the top eventually will end up with the same results. stump will flop back into it hole usually...

if yer real scared werk the little tree back from its small end then lop off the stump
The small end of the little tree is about 25 feet in the air. If I can polesaw the little guy out of the equation, can I reverse the big one back into the hole? By that I mean cut a wedge facing downward torward the creek. Then plunge cut or just start at the top and create the hinge?

Like I said, I really don't have any experience with this. I just conceptually know what I think I want to do.

Thanks guys. Keep me from killing myself.
 
treesmith

treesmith

tree hugger/cutter
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Oz
Just make sure you work out the forces first, is it hung up or is the canopy end free?

Sent from my SM-T805Y using Tapatalk
 
Rhygin

Rhygin

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Location
North Carolina
Just make sure you work out the forces first, is it hung up or is the canopy end free?

Sent from my SM-T805Y using Tapatalk
It's pretty much canopy free. My first thought was to take a shovel and remove the dirt and cut roots as I went on the back side of the dirt ball. I then thought about the whole thing upending on top of me - instant grave. Thanks to you guys, I am now seeing a proper path.
 
Westboastfaller

Westboastfaller

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At the end of the day you are removing the little tree as it's an overhead hazard therefore why would we want to work with it overhead, Good call! Deal with it first, good habit to be in. You seemed to like the pole saw idea so stick with that as it's safe; I think the worst thing that can happen is not cutting it properly and getting pinched and its better than working with a chainsaw over your head and getting pinched....or worse. After that is done then limb the big tree and then start blocking from the top eventually the trunk will start lifting making the bucking easier.
 
Westboastfaller

Westboastfaller

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I wish it was only this^^ that came to mind when I think of root wads. In this case the tops would have been bent to the left likely from other trees in the path of the fall. Here you would want to be on the left of the trunk end but not necessarily under the root wad. You can first alleviate the side bind by cutting a series of very shallow nicks spread along the inner bend (compression side) or wait for time to take the preasure out.
*I do believe they were salvaging the logs, not that a log takes precedence over safety.
 
northmanlogging

northmanlogging

The gyppo's gyppo
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Or, I bet you could stand on the big log, and reach the little upper one, say 10 feet or so from the root wad, undercut the bottom side, maybe even make a face cut, no need to go real deep or anything just enough to relieve tension, then hack through the top.

It will drop like a rock and maybe chair a bit, but keep these things in mind as you work on it. If you put a "face" on it, it will tend to sag as you cut the top side and probably come down nice and easy until you sever the back off completely.

As far as the big bastard, get yer self a plastic wedge, eyeball a point up hill and clear of the root wad if it does go towards you, and start cutting yer way through, around half way the kerf will either start to close or start to open, if it starts to close, cram that wedge in, and keep cutting. The Stump end will act as a kickstand and keep the wad from rolling on top of you. if it does go the other way, i.e. back from wence it came etc. Just keep yer noggin clear, and watch for it tearing bits off the bottom side of the log.

Just like falling a tree once it starts to commit get out and away.
 
capetrees

capetrees

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A similar situation was posted in here not too long ago and some responders in here jumped me for giving the exact instruction as they currently are for this situation.:wtf:

Yes to cutting the smaller upper one first, yes to cutting it slowly so as to understand where the pressure in the trunk is so it doesn't pop back at you, and yes to using a pole saw, fully extended.
The larger one on the ground has the stump which could flop back to it's original position. As thick as it is, I wouldn't be so concerned with the dangers as I would the upper one and I would use a chainsaw like they showed in the video from an earlier post. Cut slow, watch where the pressure is and cut it close to the stump as possible.
 
capetrees

capetrees

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MA
Where's the humor? Fully extended puts you about 10' away and removes you from the danger zone. Are you worried about bar size? Mine came with a 14" bar.

I'm missing the humor.
 
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