List of Upgrades to Vermeer SC252

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Thanks Stumper63! Indeed, most likely proprietary too since I cannot find it :)
Seems like I have to go and search for an alternative.

I wonder how they created the two-speed? Do they use a 2-speed hydraulic motor or is it a trick with a valve and bypass in slow modus?
 
Valve and bypass solenoid. See pics:
 

Attachments

  • SC292 Propel 2 Speed Valve Diagram.JPG
    SC292 Propel 2 Speed Valve Diagram.JPG
    224.7 KB · Views: 17
  • 2 Speed Valve Parts Description.JPG
    2 Speed Valve Parts Description.JPG
    292.1 KB · Views: 15
Ah, interesting, thanks! It looks like this would it would not be too hard to build this into a sc252 to create a two-speed. But you probably also need a hydraulic motor twice the volume to keep original speed when de valve is open, and get double speed when it closes. I would love to have a two-speed grinder cause I waste a lot of time and fuel on some locations.
 
Did you already change the hydro pump pulley like is shown on this thread? I replaced mine just the next size down to increase the pump speed. Helped a lot. Some guys went even smaller, but made their pumps squeal.
I also put a one or two tooth larger sprocket on the drive motor, helped speed things up. I think with those changes my old 252 was just as fast as the 292 in high speed.
Increasing the pump pulley size does increase your swing speed too, but i found that helpful too, I never used the AutoSleep feature anyway.

Stumper63
 
Yes, I already changed the pulley for a smaller one. Instead from 16 tot 18, I changed the other sprocket and went from 39 to 34. This gives the same change, but the advantage is that the bolts of the hydraulic motor are better accessible, plus the chain cannot get stuck anymore when it breaks. (This once happened during a job and was a lot of hassle)
The disadvantage of the change is that I do not have enough torque now when on mulch and I have to help manually often, to pull the grinder backwards. I feel my hydraulic pump may be leaking inside? Do you still have enough torque with your 18 sprocket?
 
Never had a problem with torque that I recall, you might have a faulty pump going on. Or check your hydraulic pressure with a gauge, may need to adjust. I remember demoing a new Carlton 4012 back in 07 at their factory. A 4wd unit, wouldn't climb a little hill. The guy was embarrassed. Went back to the factory and they adjusted the pressure and had all the power you could have asked for. Would be too simple, but worth a check.

I do remember that after changing the sprocket I did have to use a crowfoot socket to get to one of those pump bolts.

Stumper63
 
hmm, that's interesting. On my previous sc252 I had the same problem, not enough torque, not even with original sprocket. I always thought this was just how they are... I'm going to get this checked! Thanks!
 
Only problem was traction, wheels would always spin. Even if you put them up against a tall curb, would always spin them on dry pavement (not recommended to do for very long, just a torque check I would do). So may be a pressure issue for you.

Stumper63
 
ok! wow, spinning wheels on dry pavement. I have the feeling there's a lot to gain here for me if I solve this pressure issue. Do you know if you can adjust the pressure somewhere on the sc252? After measuring of course.
 
Never had to do it, but must be. should be at the control station. Should be a nut you loosen, then either a screwdriver or allen head bolt you turn clockwise I believe to increase pressure. I don't have my manuals anymore for the 252. Any hydro shop will know how.
 
Never had to do it, but must be. should be at the control station. Should be a nut you loosen, then either a screwdriver or allen head bolt you turn clockwise I believe to increase pressure. I don't have my manuals anymore for the 252. Any hydro shop will know how.

I connected a gauge and measured 1400 psi oil pressure, which should be set to 1500 psi. Just under the controls there's a hole. Through there you can losen a nut and adjust with an allen key. I reset the oil pressure so let's see tomorrow what it does :)
 
I did notice a significant improvement in torque after resetting the oil pressure to 1500 psi. However I do believe my pump needs overhaul as it needs to make a lot of rpm to reach 1500 psi. So my pump must be leaking oil inside.
I have two options: buy a 200 euro repair kit for the webster from Vermeer or get a brand new 200 euro pump + bearing of a different brand. The new pump delivers 250 psi at 3500 max rpm.

What would you guys do?
 
I did notice a significant improvement in torque after resetting the oil pressure to 1500 psi. However I do believe my pump needs overhaul as it needs to make a lot of rpm to reach 1500 psi. So my pump must be leaking oil inside.
I have two options: buy a 200 euro repair kit for the webster from Vermeer or get a brand new 200 euro pump + bearing of a different brand. The new pump delivers 250 psi at 3500 max rpm.

What would you guys do?

It's going to be a new pump as Vermeer charges 369 euro ex vat for the repair kit. :wtf:
 
I know this is for the 252 however I am thinking of buying a 222 with a blown motor. Is the 222 capable of handling the briggs 35. The machine looks smaller, just not sure how much lighter it is built. Thanks.
I have done it and it's awesome.
I have 450 hours with the 35 vanguard on it and got about 370 hours on the bearings before 1 started making noise and getting hot and about 250 hours on the v belts & just just under 180 hours on the cutter wheel belt. All of these were new when I installed the engine along with a new clutch. Alignment is key for sure and sharp teeth.
f4489ec39f013287e1a90a20e8fe1821.jpg


Sent from my SM-G892U using Tapatalk
 
Can I just say thank you to all who have posted here. I am not a professional stump grinder, however I am looking to start doing the work. Have wanted to for some time. I don’t know why this, but this it is. Grinding stumps.

I have purchased a used 2012 252 with 700 hours. Picking it up tomorrow. I could not be more thankful for the knowledge gained in here reading this the last few days.

First things first. Make sure she runs and works. Hopefully I don’t here anything I don’t like.

Going to start small I think. Green teeth and buy the stuff to do a 4” pulley change, not going to install that straight away though. Think that’s a good middle ground on size, especially for a newbie, when I do go to install it. Don’t want any long term problems either.

I’m totally new to all this. Thanks again for all the time your all have put into this thread.
 
Hi there Ground Zero

Sweet setup! I love the plow pusher thing. Did you build that? Is there any way I could get you to snap a few more pics. Maybe from the other side or frontish and both up and down position if you could?

No rush, I probably won’t build one till winter. But I love the idea and read of someone else doing the same thing. I didn’t envision the lower support piece but now that I see the way you built yours I want to inlude it for strength too!
 
Anyone source the sleeves/bushings for the hydraulic cylinder ends from someone other than Vermeer?

Specifically the left right swing ones ATM but I’d take the whole slew of em and just order them all if someone had a list.

I have a 2012 252

Thank you.
 
I put in bronze bushings, they last a lot longer than the fiber ones. Cheaper too by the way! I got them online from some bushing supplier, they have all kinds of sizes self-greasing-bushings.
 
I put in bronze bushings, they last a lot longer than the fiber ones. Cheaper too by the way! I got them online from some bushing supplier, they have all kinds of sizes self-greasing-bushings.

Thank you. Don’t have any part numbers laying around do you? I’m hoping not to open it up till I have parts in hand. Hopefully less down time that way. Thanks again for the reply.
 
Anyone change the diameter of the jackshaft and cutter shaft pulleys to affect speed? I need to replace at least the jackshaft one and am contemplating this at this time.

I read somewhere on here someone did speed up the cutter wheel with some initial advantages but wore teeth quickly and they theorized the opposite may be better, slow down for more torque.

This is what I’m contemplating, slowing down the cutter wheel. For more torque. I am doing the hydro pulley upgrade so im thinking a little more tourque may be better with the swing arm moving faster.

I’m talking minimal change. 1/4” change or so on be pulley. Not inches or anything. Just slow it down a hair.

Thoughts? Anyone at all?

Hope this thread isn’t totally dead. I love my 252, even if there is better equipment these days. Great info here.
 
Back
Top