ms170 compression

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Nathan Graff

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So, I changed the carb on the MS 170, and expanded the muffler opening a bit. Now, I can't get the saw started. I tried giving the saw sniffs of carb cleaner to get it going. However, it wouldn't even stutter. I have spark, the air filter is new. I cleaned the case all up. fuel lines seem to be ok.

So, I put a compression tester on it, and I couldn't get more than 85-90 psi out of it. And I heard hissing sounds from around the cylinder somewhere. Any ideas where to start, or should I go get a used Husky 340, or stihl ms260?
 
Lots of guys here like the 260.
Quite a difference in size/feel of saw over a little 170 though.
My 50, 60, and 70cc saws have their place, but I have a few small saws that I like to use a lot.
 
If that compression is right on the 170 then Houston we have a problem. Remove the muffler and take a look. IF the piston is not smooth then the saw is ready for a rebuild or parting out. If smooth then the carburetor you put on is suspect. The carbs on these have one adjustment and are either right or you can't make them right. The Husky and Stihl you mentioned are good.
 
I've always had a hard time starting this saw cold. Lots of pulling the cord, and sometimes giving it a sniff of something to get it going.

When I had the muffler off to do that mod, it looked ok. But, I"ll take it off again and have a look. And I'll pull the carb back off and see what it looks like. I put a carb from a MS 230 onto this saw so I could adjust it.
 
Just did the same to mine today. Not sure about the 230, but the wt215 carb i bought, i had to drill out the brass plug and plug up the port next to it so the factory impulse port would line up. Also plugged the intelli port in the air box to keep junk out. Thing fired right up and runs better than it ever has after a little high/low adjustment. Thanks to blsnelling’s directions posted on this a while back.
 
Multiple issues here. As snowchaser indicated....if you put an MS250 carb on it - the impulse hole is at 2 o/c. You need 12 o/c. If it's really 85 PSI, it ain't gonna run. Lay off the sniff squirts - use fuel mix in plug hole or carb throat. Sniff is washing lube off piston, ring and cylinder. If done frequently, p,r and c are scored. An AM topend is $20 or a whole engine drop in is $28.
 
So, I took the muffler and the carb off the saw. The impulse hole on the carb was plugged. So, I cleared that out, and cleaned up the mating surfaces. The piston and rings were fine. Put the saw back together. It started on the 6th or 7th pull. Really good considering that if the saw had no gas in the line, it would be a half hour ordeal to get it going previously.

Seems to be cutting faster with the muffler opened up, and the newer carb tuned in.
 
Hmmm….I guess that impulse port really is important! :D Congrats on getting it running. I just love those little saws. Nimble and stout! Great for limbing out the top of a tree when cutting firewood! I like to toss my 018 behind the seat of my pick-up truck after a storm. Comes in handy to cut trees and limbs out of the road as I head to town!
 
I love little saws. Why use anything bigger than necessary? I've got a 170 chassis swapped up to Chi-com 180 engine and carb. Bend open the muffler lovers and they breath much better. Mine runs like a Beaver on crack but it's always temperamental starting, hard to hear that first pop and easy to flood if you persist on full choke.

The best modification on this saw is to swap out the chain tensioner from the OEM front screw to a side adjustment.

Is there a metal side plate cover available?
 
I have two of them and use them all the time for Clean up. I changed my carbs out and they run a lot better. It usually takes 3-5 pulls to start. One of them has an aftermarket piston and cylinder, I can't tell a difference between the two.
 
I'm interested in the side tensioner swap. I require to know more... haha

On the other hand, it's still oiling a lot more than it needs to. Is there an adjustable oiler available that will fit?
 
It was leaking out the bottom, but I replaced the line. Now, it's slinging a lot of oil off the bar. Takes about 5 seconds to get a very solid line in something from it.
 
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