No more Permatex Motoseal for me.

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I agree with you Pogo, Dirko is incredibly
forgiving when compared to the other options. It’s also got a much longer work time (7 minutes in my experience rather than 1-2 with motoseal / threebond before it skins).

In fact, give the tube to someone who can mess up an anvil and he’ll still get an air tight seal with Dirko.

Worth mentioning Dirko HT red isn’t fuel resistant, but it still works.

I just replaced a seal on my model hit and miss engine and used motoseal for the cylinder sleeve and between the cylinder head and cylinder body to mix things up where I’d normally use Dirko.

It’ll be fine, but putting this model engine together using motoseal reminded me that motoseal isn’t necessarily my preference, though I’ll still use it. I do like how easily it applies, but I don’t like how quick it skins up. I purposely used a liberal amount to see if it still sets up in 24 hours. It’s much warmer here in Oz that many countries and I think the cold causes Motoseal sealing / setting issues too.8F5464AB-1990-40F9-A874-433A73D5BC96.jpeg
 
I agree with you Pogo, Dirko is incredibly
forgiving when compared to the other options. It’s also got a much longer work time (7 minutes in my experience rather than 1-2 with motoseal / threebond before it skins).

In fact, give the tube to someone who can mess up an anvil and he’ll still get an air tight seal with Dirko.

Worth mentioning Dirko HT red isn’t fuel resistant, but it still works.

I just replaced a seal on my model hit and miss engine and used motoseal for the cylinder sleeve and between the cylinder head and cylinder body to mix things up where I’d normally use Dirko.

It’ll be fine, but putting this model engine together using motoseal reminded me that motoseal isn’t necessarily my preference, though I’ll still use it. I do like how easily it applies, but I don’t like how quick it skins up. I purposely used a liberal amount to see if it still sets up in 24 hours. It’s much warmer here in Oz that many countries and I think the cold causes Motoseal sealing / setting issues too.View attachment 892857
Make it into one of these
 
Worth mentioning Dirko HT red isn’t fuel resistant, but it still works.
You're actually correct and I stand humbly corrected. Perhaps 'petroleum' or 'oil' resistant is more accurate to better categorize its capability in that regard. And while it does indeed still work in such conditions, MotoSeal Ultra Grey would be my first choice for an actual "fuel resistant" application.

Some cool gadgetry you guys have there.
 
I wouldnt use anything for a base gasket delete that isnt fuel resistant, which rules out most silicone based products.
I've had 100% success using Loctite 510. It's both chemical and heat resistant.
 
I wouldnt use anything for a base gasket delete that isnt fuel resistant, which rules out most silicone based products.
I've had 100% success using Loctite 510. It's both chemical and heat resistant.
Yes, but note that literally every Stihl shop in the world uses Dirko ht red for every crankshaft seal and clamshell engine (not just chainsaws). I have never heard of a single failure of anyone using Dirko due to fuel on here and can’t imagine Stihl would use Dirko ht red in every manual and engine above for decades if there was an issue.
 
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