Discussion in 'Chainsaw Stickies' started by FATGUY, May 6, 2009.
Red 3.7 SOLD
If you need more space, I can give it to ya.
Ran it today. Runs like a raped ape
Wasn't planning on running the 3000 today (backup to the backup), but my first choice today wasn't cooperating by the end of the first tree and my second saw was feeling heavy when I moved over to drop this second tree. From standing all the way into the truck, it got a decent workout. I put so more miles on the loop of BPX I threw on it last fall. I am a couple of hand filings in now and it really cut well. I figure it is a tad slower than a full chisel, but holds an edge well and pulls nice chips. Slower is better for me some times. No need to rush when I fellow is enjoying the task at hand.
My back really likes the 3000's.
Watched the YouTube vid after you posted it, how does it do in dirty wood?
I touched a bit of soil on a couple of rounds toward the end. It didn't phase it. I think it likely strikes a nice compromise between speed and maintaining a decent cutting edge. As I tend to run full chisel and (out of habit) touch them up with a quick pass every couple of tanks, I found it was not necessary in this case. Still sharp.
I received a small box of this chain in a trade. I would likely had not bought it as I can get away with full chisel for all my cutting needs around here. I was skeptical before, but am no longer. Pretty decent indeed.
May have to try some out. Now and then I have to cut dirty wood in the swamp bottom so I'm stuck with semi chisel but I don't like the speed on big wood. Definitely like cutting with full chisel myself with the big saws. My smaller ones I'm stuck with semi unless I get my chain made. I have one that's semi skip I used for felling so I can keep my speed up with my echo. Like using it for that cause it's light and more maneuverable, plus it doesn't tire me out.
Poulan 4000 I took on trade yesterday. Shows just a hair over 130psi for the thin ring topend.
Showing the difference in the 4000 recoil pulley and 3400 pulley. The 4000 flywheel I was told had a issue so the 3400 flywheel and recoil was used.
The 4000 rear handle was broke so I was told the 3400 handle was put in it's place. You can see the 4000 handle half that is left is lot less use.
The auto oiler works, didnt try the manual.
It does start up and take throttle, but IMO acts like it has a air leak. I would guess a crank seal, being it changes when done side to side.
I will sell whole with the extra 4000 parts included or I will possibly part out. If you price the air filter cover, 4000 high top air filter, 4000 pulley 4000 recoil, 4000 topend. You will notice they are high. I will sell whole cheaper then parting it out. Just so you know up front.
PHO $125 plus shipping or trade for?
Last owner said he put in a carb kit and fuel line. I seen the duckbill for tank vent too but on old line.
While I was packing up the 4000. I noticed the bar plates still looked like new.
Took a fresh pic of piston after running it to make sure before packing too.
3.7 4000 ready to go. Only thing left from the trade in group was 3400 parts saw stuff if needed.
Another person will be grateful for your efforts.
Look like I might be heading your way Sunday to visit my ma inlaw green lust. Got any Poulan 5200 air filters you want to part with?
I can spare a couple ,if you are coming this way. Sunday I’ve got Church then Mama’s for lunch so I can’t get with you until later in the day . Let me know if that might work for you.
Thats what I told the guy when taking the stuff on trade to help him out with his needs.
I wasnt into this series but I know folks that are. So 2 guys got some cheap projects. Red 3.7 3800 that suppose to be runner $50 and 4000 that runs somewhat $125 plus extra parts.
I'll let you know, we won't leave the house til after church gets out and go eat. It's about 1 1/2 hour drive. We'll probably be there most of the day. I'll let you know Friday or Saturday.
You back home Tim, we want pictures.
I've been watching a Poulan 3450, guy started out at 150, now he's down to 95. Thought of offering him 75 for it. Saw looks to be in good shape.
Got a question regarding 306a seals. Is the seal on the oiler critical to replace. Been studying that auto oiler and still not sure how it works
Also, the “tit” on the “cross” that resembles a points contact, how tall is it sposed to be to lift the sprocket looking gizmo. Sorry for terminology but dont have access to my ipl right now
I had saved this post from Hotshot some time ago. I know zip about those oilers.
Posted by Hotshot in "Chainsaw repair"
306A oiler trouble shoot
First post here, but the small steel cam gets driven from the shaft by the
"crush" when you tighten the clutch assembly down against the cam, or in
other words it is stacked in there like a washer being pressed against the
What a great engineering design, with the brass gear reducer cammed in a
roughly a 19 to 1 ratio. There are 19 teeth on the brass driver, and 20
teeth in the stator. Note that one of the gear tooth pockets on the outer
gear is always empty. The face of the brass driver gear has a short cam
cast into it too, that the cross piece button rides on.
One turn is made to stroke the plunger for every 19 rotations of the engine, or
about 5 short plunger strokes per second at 6000 RPM. Looks like the designer
must have played with his kids Spirograph drawing set back in the 70's, if you
Anyway, you probably have a quad ring rubber seal that is simply worn
out, it goes around the plunger pin that is actuated by the cross shaped
piece that is driven by the face of the brass gear. You have to dig it out of
the bore with a dental pick, at least most of the time you do.
There is pair of check valves in that system, one right at the bar slot opening (which is fine as your manual oiler is working), and
then one at the top of the tank pick up tube. I'm assuming that the oil finder/screen in the tank is not clogged with debris,
as again your manual oiler is working.
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