Discussion in 'Chainsaw Stickies' started by FATGUY, May 6, 2009.
recently got one myself.
$$$$$ the saw model number must have been how the quoted the price.
Seen a poulan 330 54cc with the 22" 3/8 for sale. Sticker shows 2007. While I was out I found a JD bar cover to put on the shop wall too.
I was told poulan ran. It did. But needed a air filter cover, air filter base being the stud was broke off in base and drywall screw was used to hold cover onto base, both right side lower AV's were ripped apart, fuel line needed replaced. The issue with the recoil was the rusted and broken recoil spring. Thank goodness I still had all those parts still.
Went ahead and pulled the tube out of muffler and opened up the inside cage too.
Some before and after pics. I put a 20" to test with.
Bar cover to add to the wall.
Does anyone know where or what I could use for a coil for a 2800 poulan?
Just looked at a 2800/3000 coil on eBay
That's a hell of a set of spikes on that thing
Put the 1999 3450 and 2007 330 side by side for someone on CRG.
Local coming by to try both out sometime so both set up with 20".
Pulleys and thin rings in hand. 1 NOS pulley and 1 used IMO.
The rings come in the sleeve and sold to me as NOS. But would like to make sure. I never measured the last NOS 4000 PP395 ring sets.
Like to know the width of ring. Anyone have a NOS one to measure please?
Like I did with the 2100 thin rings = New 2.07mm and used set 1.82mm and 1.86mm.
I know the thickness is .55mm
.60 mm thick 2.06 mm width. New
What have people used to help install the crank seals on the 3400/3700? I saw several do the bevel but I'm not going to attempt that. Just not confident enough doing that just with a Dremel. So other options? It still runs fine but since I have a new main saw and once my Stihl 041 is running I can take it out of service to do preventative maintenance.
Oh and I promise I'm still working on these gaskets and diaphragms. The oil diaphragm will definitely happen first. Gotta just cut the paper version out and see how it compares to the OE one I removed and a hand cut version. If it's good I'll cut one out of the rubber and will install that on my saw to give it a whirl. Then I'll do a batch with the material I have to put up. I owe a few to the person who gave me the material anyways.
I'm still keen on a diaphragm when you get into production
I tapered my cases with my pocket knife, worked fine. Getting the seal over the step at the clutch side isn't that hard either, just have to work with a bit to slip pass. I use a deep socket that with clear the crank and get it started, then I use the next size up to make the seal flush with the case. Last one I did was just barely below flush. Need to leak check after installing. Flywheel side is super easy, tapered shaft. Lube seals before installing, don't want a dry seal lip.
I'm still running my original seals lol probably shouldn't but it's not showing any sign of leaking
Yes to the pocket knife or a small triangle file that has the end sharpened and just take the corner off the hole doesn't have to be very much but it makes it easier to install the seals
Wouldn't hurt to check them. The last saw I got ran good after I worked on it, but the seals failed the pressure check. I replaced them and confident is will go many years without any repairs.
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