Remington Chainsaws(including Mall chainsaws)

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Hi guys,I've been stuck between a rock & a hard place trying to find new races for a couple of SL9's.I went to a local bearing house today in hopes they could help me out.They were unable to get a new race for me,but came up with 2 other options.Option one was to press out the needle bearing & press in 2 ball bearings side by side that fit the shaft properly.The other option was to use a brass bushing in place of the race.I opted for option 2.I know that the brass bushing is softer than the original steel race,but it's only temporary till I might find an original race someday.The brass bushings were cheap enough.I got 8 of them for $24.
Are you talking about replacing a crank bearing with a brass bushing or the wrist pin or the clutch?
I've always been able to find replacement pieces for most of my saws. There are a few proprietary seals etc, but largely the manufacturers used off the shelf stuff.
 
Are you talking about replacing a crank bearing with a brass bushing or the wrist pin or the clutch?
I've always been able to find replacement pieces for most of my saws. There are a few proprietary seals etc, but largely the manufacturers used off the shelf stuff.
I thought it was fairly clear when I mentioned the word race that it meant the race for the clutch.I don't know of any other races on the saw.I'm not an idiot who would even think of trying to replace a bearing in the engine with a brass race.But I suppose there are those people who would try something stupid like that.Lol
I made a post here a couple of months ago looking for a race for a SL9,but never got any replies.I've been looking on Ebay as well & found nothing.The bearing house I thought was my best shot,but as it turned out it wasn't.It seems that Remington used some odd ball stuff when they were putting their saws together.I also posted in the parts wanted section to no avail.
 
I’ve replaced the drawn cup needle bearings in the clutch drum with bronze bushings several times. Use my drill press as a lathe and a file to turn the OD and a hacksaw blade as a cutoff tool. Crude but works.

Use an adjustable reamer as an arbor/mandrel.

Use bronze not brass. [emoji106]
 
I thought it was fairly clear when I mentioned the word race that it meant the race for the clutch.I don't know of any other races on the saw.I'm not an idiot who would even think of trying to replace a bearing in the engine with a brass race.But I suppose there are those people who would try something stupid like that.Lol
I made a post here a couple of months ago looking for a race for a SL9,but never got any replies.I've been looking on Ebay as well & found nothing.The bearing house I thought was my best shot,but as it turned out it wasn't.It seems that Remington used some odd ball stuff when they were putting their saws together.I also posted in the parts wanted section to no avail.
Sorry, I must have missed the earlier post. I know some mac's had bronze bushings at the wrist pin, so you never know. As for the clutch bearing, yes, bronze will work, I've machined some oil-lite before for that purpose and it works fine.
 
Hi guys.

Just scored a PL5 with a scored piston. The cylinder luckly was able to be salvaged but now im on the hunt for a piston.

Does anyone know if i can match a new piston from the likes of a husky or simlar or not. As trying to source a nos or chinese copy remington piston is a nightmare.

Any advice would be really appreciated.

Thank you
 
She's an oiler now thanks to Modified Mark sending me some pictures of his fix.
It'll pull the 36" through a 28" pecan log but I think it would be happy with a 28" or 24" bar.20200628_135943.jpg
It is a tough light saw though, I still think that it would benefit from a larger carburetor.
 
She's an oiler now thanks to Modified Mark sending me some pictures of his fix.
It'll pull the 36" through a 28" pecan log but I think it would be happy with a 28" or 24" bar.View attachment 839151
It is a tough light saw though, I still think that it would benefit from a larger carburetor.

You need to get a Remington bar for it!

20200507_172459.jpg
 
Actually I think I'll probably be taking the Sl7a apart, I think the piston or cylinder is/was scored at some time in its past and I don't feel like it's building up compression like it should? I put a 24" homelite bar on it and it had trouble pulling it through a log and I feel like a 95cc motor should have alot more grunt.
Sadness.
 
Hi Carl, my SL-5GBs spring broke at the pulley end so I'm looking for a replacement. I already bent it but not sure how long it will last.
54922e5b11693f8881475fb9b616dfc2.jpg


Homelite collector in training! [emoji879]
 
I was actually able to find several recoil springs online and have one heading my way.
Just need to find a condenser for the saw, a top mount not side.

Homelite collector in training! [emoji879]
 
I was actually able to find several recoil springs online and have one heading my way.
[emoji879]

I actually got offered some nos recoil springs myself when i found my nos pl5 piston. Was lucky enough to be offered from a guy that just had them laying around.

Its very surprising what people have hidden away in the shed.

I just literally picked up a shed find pl55 this morning. Unknown if it'll go and needs a few bits but it can sit in the corner for a rainy day.
 
Do you have a part # for the condenser Al?Buford Parrish in Ky.might have something,he has a bunch of Remington parts,but not many.Also,Bob Johnson who you contacted about your XL-123 piston kit might have something as well.
 
WOW! I can't believe he wants $100 for the piston.You're better off getting the one on Feebay.I talk with you more on this on the other forum.
I'll look around & see what I can find for that condenser.
 
Back
Top