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edju1958

edju1958

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Here's an update on the Woodsman - it's basically an SL4 that been renamed & has a different color.I got the clutch off & it may be salvageable with some cleaning & light lube on the springs.The fuel tank is pretty much toast,it's full of white death.The carb (SDC33) might not be worth much either,the check valve is most likely shot & I can't replace the damn things (visual problems).I took the 3 bolts out that are supposed to be the one that hold the fuel tank on & it still won't come off.There must be more magical bolts somewhere.I also took the 4 bolts out of the air box that attach it to the reed & the bottom handle screws & that won't even come loose.It doesn't really matter with the Woodsman as it's just a parts saw,but if the SL4 comes apart the same way I'll never be able to put a piston kit in it.
 
Yukon Stihl

Yukon Stihl

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You can clean the tank
Take a handful of assorted nuts screws,self tapers bolts in the tank and shake the crap out of it.Then shake it some more.
The last one i did got me 2 tablespoons of white powder after i recovered the metal i put in.After that rinse with some mix and replace the fuel line.
 
Dave86

Dave86

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You can clean the tank
Take a handful of assorted nuts screws,self tapers bolts in the tank and shake the crap out of it.Then shake it some more.
The last one i did got me 2 tablespoons of white powder after i recovered the metal i put in.After that rinse with some mix and replace the fuel line.
Do you add any solvent to the hardware mix?
 
edju1958

edju1958

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I got more than a cupful of white powder out of it already & it has a hole in the top the size of my thumb.This tank is a goner.
I was mainly interested in tearing it down to see what shape the internals are in.I did disconnect the fuel line.Even if the oil lines are still connected the handle should be somewhat loose,shouldn't it?
I've decided to use this saw for parts (it has a nice spike too),& put a piston kit in the SL4.I've got the kit ordered from Sawzilla.Not a bad price of $29.95!
 
Maintenance supervisor

Maintenance supervisor

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I got more than a cupful of white powder out of it already & it has a hole in the top the size of my thumb.This tank is a goner.
I was mainly interested in tearing it down to see what shape the internals are in.I did disconnect the fuel line.Even if the oil lines are still connected the handle should be somewhat loose,shouldn't it?
I've decided to use this saw for parts (it has a nice spike too),& put a piston kit in the SL4.I've got the kit ordered from Sawzilla.Not a bad price of $29.95!
I have a Homelite super 55 that the tank was full of holes but the motor is perfect.
 
edju1958

edju1958

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Thank you Poge! Persistence pays off.I got the tank off,it was like it was glued on.Then I got the handle off.I did have to disconnect 3 different lines,well 2 anyway,I was just in the disconnect mode & took the line off that I believe pressurizes the tank.Then I had to tap on the handle to get it to come loose.Getting the cylinder off is another feat in itself.I could only get 3 of 4 nuts loose,I had to take off the side plate for the handle in order to get the 4th nut off.Now I need to find a wooden dowel to put in the plug hole to tap the piston out of the cylinder.When I took the side cover off it was full of grit,the engine would've been toast if it could've fired up.
 
edju1958

edju1958

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Well guys,with a piston kit on the way for the SL4 I decided to start tearing into the saw today.I got the flywheel & stator assembly off & the oil lines disconnected.I got the rear handle mostly off except for the line that runs up along the left side.Always gotta be something to snag me.I guess I'll have to pull the clutch & the fuel tank & most likely the side handle plate too.This is going to be my first piston kit install,so I may need help.I just hope I don't break rings like pretzels like I did when I was a teenager.
 
edju1958

edju1958

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Things aren't looking so good for the SL4.I got the clutch off & the fuel tank earlier today along with the oil line disconnected.The rear handle is off now,I didn't have to take the side handle plate off,I got lucky there,but that's where my luck ran out.
I'm assuming that there are supposed to be 2 circlips for the piston.It looks like one of them let go & that's what scored the piston.Amazingly the cylinder was unharmed.I was able to push the pin out part way with a drift pin & then get a hold of it with a vise grip & pull it out.2 of the needle bearings fell out & went to never never land never to be found again.Just as well because there's either a problem with the connecting rod or the crankshaft,or both.The rod has sideways play of 1/8 - 3/16 in.which I don't believe is normal.
Ironically I received the piston kit today from Sawzilla.I was successful in getting the cylinder off the Woodsman engine & that's in better shape than the SL4
I got one of the circlips out of the piston & was able to drive the pin out of the piston.I put the pin back in the rod so I wouldn't lose anymore needle bearings.There's no sideway slop on the Woodsman rod & crank,but I can't get the allen screws to break loose.
I don't know if I should send the piston kit back at this point.
 
67L36Driver

67L36Driver

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Those rods use drawn cup needle bearings. Press the old one out and the new one in. Use your bench vice.

Visit your local auto parts store with pin size, outside diameter and length.
 
edju1958

edju1958

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I didn't have a problem getting the old pins out on either piston.I got a new pin with the piston & rings & clips.
As for a drawn cup - it's all Greek to me.Like I said,this is my first ever piston replacement & it looks like I got more than what I bargained for.I'll have to replace the connecting rod,bearings,& the crankshaft.
 
fossil

fossil

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I didn't have a problem getting the old pins out on either piston.I got a new pin with the piston & rings & clips.
As for a drawn cup - it's all Greek to me.Like I said,this is my first ever piston replacement & it looks like I got more than what I bargained for.I'll have to replace the connecting rod,bearings,& the crankshaft.

The drawn cup needle bearings look like this Ed. The bearing number is generally stamped on the cup flange. The PN is commonly used by all the manufacturers.


drawn-cup-needle-roller-bearing-hk1214-o18-2rs-hk1214-o18-2rs-12x18x14-mm.jpg
 
edju1958

edju1958

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Thanks Tim! Yeah,that's what the top end of the connecting rod looks like.I don't think I need new bearings,just need to clean them up good & repack them.
Now I need to know how to get the allen screws out of the bottom end where the rod attaches to the crank without breaking my allen wrenches?
 
fossil

fossil

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Thanks Tim! Yeah,that's what the top end of the connecting rod looks like.I don't think I need new bearings,just need to clean them up good & repack them.
Now I need to know how to get the allen screws out of the bottom end where the rod attaches to the crank without breaking my allen wrenches?

Heat. Likely a sealer like Loctite in there.

I don't pull the rod to change a piston.
 
edju1958

edju1958

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Heat. Likely a sealer like Loctite in there.

I don't pull the rod to change a piston.
Normally I wouldn't pull the rod either,but there's so much sideways slop that either the crank or rod is shot,or both.The piston pin was even scored.
 
67L36Driver

67L36Driver

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Sideways slop means nothing really. I’ve had some with 1/32” you could watch the crank dance back and forth while running.

General Motors distributor shaft shims can be used to pare it down to .005”-.010”.

Or, just carefully drive the crank bearings in a bit.
 
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