Hello everyone, I'm new to the vertical mulching thing and looking for some tips. I would like to add VM to my services as an alternative to fertilizing for rejuvenating old and sick trees. I would be using an 6" auger bit on a stihl drill. I would like to hear about other methods for applying and especially what kind of cocktails you guys use to backfill the holes. The local landscape supplier has garden compost for sale which is a mixture of peat moss, hay, cocoa bean hulls, cotton seed meal, and poultry litter. Also anyone been experimenting with mycorrhizae as part of the ingredients when VM? Thanks!
Vertical Mulching
- Thread starter NCTREE
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Rejuvenating old and sick trees with vertical mulching? I think you better do proper diagnosis first and know your soils. While I agree that VM will benefit a tree that is growing in poor compacted soils, is it really going to benefit trees growing in fairly coarse soils?
What are you getting from your 'cocktail'. Essentially, organic matter and NPK, primarily nitrogen. The tree doesn't care how the nitrogen is produced or delivered (ie derived from natural gas or cow/pig poo). There are issues like availability, release rate and salt index to consider. What I'm trying to say, is that I don't think you should do VM instead of fertilizing rather you should do VM as well fertilizing, using whichever technique is appropriate to the site.
A 6" auger bit? I think that's going to be pretty big, especially if you have rocks in your area. It will also be a chore to get through areas where the trees have a dense root mat. I've only seen fence post augers which are about 6" and if they catch something, people are going for a spin. I think the few times we've done VM, we've used a 2" hole and just put in more holes.
I think the best tool for vertical mulching is an air spade. That way you don't do any root damage.
TreEmergencyB
ArboristSite Guru
Guy i worked for used a 2" bit when he did it. His stihl drill sucked idk what good gas drills are out there though.
beastmaster
Addicted to ArboristSite
Vertical Mulching is something I only know about in theory, having no first hand experience, but I though it was used for compacted soil as a way to allow water, air and nutrients to enter the root zone? I would be interested in hearing more. Beastmaster
sgreanbeans
Treeaculterologist
We did quite a bit of this when in San Diego, we used a 2" with a 1/2 electric drill with the side handle. We back filled them with a combo of mulch, potting mix, Urea 46-0-0. It seemed to work pretty good. We went light on the Urea, about 1/2 a cup.
John Paul Sanborn
Above average climber
I'll second Scott, I've done it with an black dirt mix with slow release fert. You can get some good results in high compaction. Sulfuric acid in the hole helps when you have high pH soils.
As for the drill choice, high torque electric will work much better then any gas drill on the market.
I've sold it as a cheap way to amend soils over the long term. If there is not sever compaction, then a top dress of a good organic soil mix is cheaper and easier to do. Scalp the lawn, rake in the mix, water down. I've seen a few same-site studies where adding micro-biota boosted vitality in treated trees.
I like basal area soil replacement better for large trees (but then I have an air-tool) we can greatly increase the bulk density in the primary trunk absorption zone, and alter the micro hydrology - local water will perk into the soil vs run off.
As for the drill choice, high torque electric will work much better then any gas drill on the market.
I've sold it as a cheap way to amend soils over the long term. If there is not sever compaction, then a top dress of a good organic soil mix is cheaper and easier to do. Scalp the lawn, rake in the mix, water down. I've seen a few same-site studies where adding micro-biota boosted vitality in treated trees.
I like basal area soil replacement better for large trees (but then I have an air-tool) we can greatly increase the bulk density in the primary trunk absorption zone, and alter the micro hydrology - local water will perk into the soil vs run off.
Job Corps Tree
ArboristSite Operative
A few of the Large tree we do take care of like the Grand Oak at out County Court House we have a biofertilizer with Mycorrhizal Fungi., Both Airates and adds Fert. but it needs the mycorrhizal to use any Fert. Gas Drill 3" 6" deep cup of our Root Saver mix , top with sand or black soil and Water to charge the Fungi
just a thought
just a thought
Vertical mulching with a auger bit is not that effective. IMO. You need to keep in mind what percentage of the root system are you really impacting? There have been studies that indicate vertical mulching with an auger impacts very little of the root system. If you can get an Air Spade, this is a better tool to use. Instead of vertical mulching, think radial trenching.
forestryworks
Addicted to ArboristSite
Well said.
I wish I had an air spade then I could do some radial trenching. It seems more logical. Anyone have a used one they want to sell? Just a question but those things are expensive. What about making the holes at 45 degree angles instead of straight down. Oh yeah I mistaken when I said the auger bit was 6" it's more like 3.5" it still sucks trying to get around rocks.
If you buy one, you will need a compressor to run it. Suddenly, the air tool will sound cheap.
sgreanbeans
Treeaculterologist
Reason 845723445 for me to go back to SoCal, If I even mentioned something like that around here, they would laugh. No one understands that there is more than just saws to take care of their trees! Here, most of the time anyways, trees are looked at as a nuisance, more so than a asset. I take every opp to educate, but figure it mostly falls on deaf ears.
John Paul Sanborn
Above average climber
I know several people who have made airtools with plumbing parts. About 75% as good as the name brands.
John Paul Sanborn
Above average climber
Sales can be like jarheads looking for a date, purely a numbers game. Offer your secondary services to as many people as you can and you will get a few takers, they will eventually tell people...ect...ect...ect.
I had a young trooper who was the stereotype "Brooklyn Guinea WOP" He'd claim getting laid almost every day, sometimes twice
yeah, sure. Then we were out on libo together, and I saw his action. The epitome of "if it moves, he grooves". I think the only demographic of female he did not hit on were the WTF'rs Snackies. One chick in Spain had vestigial sideburns and a noticeable stash 
I do not do much rootwork, but it is growing. Once people see results they tell others.
Do you know anyone that has some blueprints or pics of the homemade air spades? I can rent the compressor.
treevet
Addicted to ArboristSite
Radial trenching seems to be a positive although you will be desicating mass fibrous roots. But using a compressor to vertical mulch is only compressing the (clay based) soil surrounding the vertical tunnel you have made by compressing the perimeter of it as it is displaced.
We use a tanaka drill like the engine in the Wraptor. It is very capable and much better than dragging around a cord sometimes attached to a generator which is how we did it 40 years ago. We actually used (working for another company) drill bits that has absolutely no threads way back then (on wet days).
The earth auger displaces soil by bringing some (not compressing the surrounding like an air tool) out and then we often use pea gravel or course sand (mixed with some organic stuff) which retains your effort of making the hole which is not the case in the pneumatic holes you made. The unfilled holes I see people making with the air drills probable collapse at first rainfall. Speaking of rainfall, vert mulching is also not just useful for alleviating compaction but also to capture rainfall on hilly terrain over root areas that tends to get hardpan on the surface.
This is all based on need as said in the second post after finding a clay base soil with compaction and a tree that is known and showing not to be able to tolerate this.
As for fertilization....a soil or foliar analysis should precede forcing a bunch of salt on your tree and high N can cause other probs. We are talking apples and oranges here or soil structure and soil content.
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How much experience do you have using an Air-Spade?
John Paul Sanborn
Above average climber
I did around 10 years ago. Basically he used black pipe a ball valve and reducers for a tip. Play around with it, I bet extra parts and all will run less then $75. An old funnel on the end works as a blast shield, and you need heavy insulation to keep from burning your hands. Air friction makes it hotter then the ####ens.
treevet
Addicted to ArboristSite
I have used one a number of times since they were invented and demoed.
What's your point Zale.?
I don't understand your statement that the air tool compresses the walls of the hole. If anything, in a clay soil it tends to fracture and lift the soil.
