welch plugs

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Dont know what everyone else does but i always put it under a drill press and very slowly drill a small hole in it. Just enough to clear through the other side so i can prise it out.
When i put the new one in i just get a punch that is similar in size to the plug and peck it down flat, not too much as to where its recessed. Some people will then seal around the edge with fingernail polish.
 
Do not drill straight down in the middle of the 5/16" dia. plug in a Walbro SDC. You will drill right into the check valve and destroy it. Drilling offset from the center on both plugs is safer. I use a nail set to lever them out.

I do know how to replace the check valve.......................................................now.
 
Dont know what everyone else does but i always put it under a drill press and very slowly drill a small hole in it. Just enough to clear through the other side so i can prise it out.
When i put the new one in i just get a punch that is similar in size to the plug and peck it down flat, not too much as to where its recessed. Some people will then seal around the edge with fingernail polish.

does it matter witch side go in the hole first? its long and narrow not completly flat .
 
In the Walbro tool kit for carb rebuilding they provide a special chisel to drive the welch plug out by holding the chisel at a narrow angle. It does not work that well. I like the drill method better but you have to keep track of the drill chips.
 
Sounds like a Zama, and you should leave it alone.

Tell us more about the saw.......

yes its a zama it floods very badly.it looks like some one been in the carb before me the screw a little striped.they could have not put the plug in good.i have a new kit maybe i just leave the welch plug alone.
 
yes its a zama it floods very badly.it looks like some one been in the carb before me the screw a little striped.they could have not put the plug in good.i have a new kit maybe i just leave the welch plug alone.

You sure the diaphragm and gasket are on in the right order? if not it'll flood real bad.
 
The carb needs impluse from the crankcase pressure, that's how it pumps fuel. There either has to be a line or a real small hole through the intake, take a look and make sure its fine.
 
The carb needs impluse from the crankcase pressure, that's how it pumps fuel. There either has to be a line or a real small hole through the intake, take a look and make sure its fine.

i hade another carb on this chainsaw just like whats on it now and the saw ran find. but i will look . thnks 4 u help
 
Oh, ok. How did you clean the carb? I've had a few that the only fix was to use a ultrasonic cleaner to clean them.

clean with carb cleaner. i just try again and now the saw stay running as long as you keep moving gas trigger in and out.
 
You could still have some gunk in there. I would suggest the ultrasonic cleaning before you go replacing anything else. I usually don't replace welch plugs when rebuilding a carb unless I know it was really gunked up and there's a good chance I need to get under there. The ultrasonic cleaning might do that for you, I'm not sure, never had one done but I hear they work very well.

On the few Zama carbs I have rebuilt the welch plugs were all the same shape, kind of a long oval. I had to stay away from the inner end and pierce it on the far end closer to the outside of the carb body but that will be different on different carbs. I've only done a few so that could be way off for your particular carb but the point is you have to know where to pierce that thing. I use a small punch, verrrrrrrrrry carefully tap it until it just pokes through then pry it out. That is the dangerous idiot way to do it but I don't have a drill press or special tools. I just tap the new one back in with a wider punch or something like that.

Once I did punch through a little too hard and very slightly dinged the carb body underneath. It ended up ok because I was in the right place so I didn't hit anything important like a little port or valve. I was lucky. If you google your carb part number you should be able to find the Zama tech guide which shows you exactly where to attack your welch plug if you do end up having to get at it. I still have the electronic version of the guide for the last one I did which was a Zama C1Q. That guide also covers the C1M, C1U, LA, LB, C3A and C3M. If that guide will help you send me a private message with your e-mail address and I can e-mail it to you.
 
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You could still have some gunk in there. I would suggest the ultrasonic cleaning before you go replacing anything else. I usually don't replace welch plugs when rebuilding a carb unless I know it was really gunked up and there's a good chance I need to get under there. The ultrasonic cleaning might do that for you, I'm not sure, never had one done but I hear they work very well.

On the few Zama carbs I have rebuilt the welch plugs were all the same shape, kind of a long oval. I had to stay away from the inner end and pierce it on the far end closer to the outside of the carb body but that will be different on different carbs. I've only done a few so that could be way off for your particular carb but the point is you have to know where to pierce that thing. I use a small punch, verrrrrrrrrry carefully tap it until it just pokes through then pry it out. That is the dangerous idiot way to do it but I don't have a drill press or special tools. I just tap the new one back in with a wider punch or something like that.

Once I did punch through a little too hard and very slightly dinged the carb body underneath. It ended up ok because I was in the right place so I didn't hit anything important like a little port or valve. I was lucky. If you google your carb part number you should be able to find the Zama tech guide which shows you exactly where to attack your welch plug if you do end up having to get at it. I still have the electronic version of the guide for the last one I did which was a Zama C1Q. That guide also covers the C1M, C1U, LA, LB, C3A and C3M. If that guide will help you send me a private message and I can e-mail it to you.

thanks 4 all the info. i now wondering also if i could have a mettering problem. how do you ajust the mettering lever?
 
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