Opinions on Electric Stihls and Husky?

[caliman99]

Sometimes I need to knock the corners off turning blanks after it's too late in the day to run a "real" chainsaw. So about a month ago, I bought a very cheap ($50 on sale) electric chainsaw at The Borg. I figured it would be quiet enough and lung-friendly enough to use in my basement. And if the tough wood (walnut, eucalyptus, chinese elm, etc.) killed it off, I'd at least get a sense of whether an electric saw could fill a role, and not be out too much money.

And i gotta say I was surprised at how well that cheap saw does at taking off corners and doing some light crosscutting here and there (mainly trimming 16-24" half-log blanks).

Of course, it is cheap: not as quiet as it could be (but quiet enough for the situation); automatic oiler is laughable--I keep an oil can handy and just squirt every time I pause; clutch cover clogs if u look at it cross eyed; cheap plastic construction, etc.

But still, with a sharp chain (it came with a full skip 3/8", .05 gauge chain on a 16" bar) it chugs through the blanks a lot faster than I would've guessed. Takes about 8 times as long as my MS460, but it hardly ever bogs, it's easy to clean and it's quiet. Fills the need.

So... it took me about 5 minutes to start daydreaming about the "real" electric chainsaws. Husqvarna 316e. Stihl MSE 180 and MSE 220.

So I have a two open-ended questions:

1) I would really appreciate hearing any and all opinions, thoughts, experiences, ideas, etc. about electric chainsaws in general (durability? ease/difficulty of maintenance compared to gas? price/performance?, etc.)

2) If anyone has used, or has 2nd-hand info on, any of the 3 saws I mentioned above, I'd love to hear a real-world comparison from people who know what they're talking about. The Husky and the Stihls both come out on top in various articles and reviews, but the articles aren't always written by people who actually know their way around a chainsaw.

Things I've noticed so far:

Husky is less expensive than the Stihls.

Stihls are both higher horsepower than the Husky.

Husky's motor is mounted parallel to the bar, which is supposed to be quieter and reduce sidways torque.

MSE 220 is almost double the price of the MSE 180, but only .3 higher horsepower (3.8 vs 3.5 I think). Stihl claims it "has significantly higher chainspeed than 180."

MS220 is a lot heavier than MS180 (12lb vs 7lb, i think) and uses "regular" bar and chain.

I'd really appreciate any feedback anyone is nice enough to offer!

PS-I did several searches of the forums for related info, but didn't find anything. So I apologize if any of this has been covered before.

 

[mikefunaro]

This is a response to item "1"

I've known a few people who bought low-end electric chainsaws to get a job "done". They've always been homelite home depot stuff. The nature of the electric cord makes them very undesirable for any sort of typical chainsaw use, unless you're cutting landscape timbers or trimming back some shrubs, etc. I also have known people who bought them and used them to demo houses. Again this was all limited use, and always home depot trash that either broke or was relegated to their damp basements.

I believe that there is a larger market in Europe for electric saws. It would seem that in at least a lot of areas, firewood is delivered in meter lengths and then cut down to smaller sizes by the end user. This creates the need for either a small gas chainsaw or electric chainsaw. Given that this final stage of processing/handling takes place in the end user's yard, it's pretty common for homeowners to do this with an electric chainsaw.

I was an intern at Consumer Reports a while ago. I am not a fan of their tests in general. However, germany has its own complement of Consumer Reports ("Test", test.de) who performed tests on a lot of electric models. Apparently the "test"/test.de company is held in higher esteem than CR is and or may be by many in the US. CR actually sent some things to Test for testing.

So if you cannot get a good response here, I'll try to see if I can track down a membership or something to that site (otherwise you have to pay for report). Otherwise, if you can, you may consider going to a european forum to get some opinions on these more expensive electric models.

 

[stihl sawing]

I bought this one to cut down firewood that was cut for another stove. It gets used as needed don't have to worry about the gas keeping all winter. Now i have caught hell in some other threads about it, But it was all in fun. It does a good job, Cuts better than i thought it would. Now it's not a speed demon so it takes a little longer but it won't bob down. It's the 12 volt 16inch bar one they have a smaller one.

 

[Trigger Man]

I was at at stihl dealership just before Christmas they had a stihl electric chainsaw not sure of model, but the price tag hanging on the handle was enough to scare me away, lets just say I could have bought a MS 260 for the same price. That's scary!

 

[stihl sawing]

I was at at stihl dealership just before Christmas they had a stihl electric chainsaw not sure of model, but the price tag hanging on the handle was enough to scare me away, lets just say I could have bought a MS 260 for the same price. That's scary!

Yep, That's why i went with the cheapie.

 

[Trigger Man]

I could'nt believe it when I saw the tag, I figured they must have been smoking the pipe, when I seen the price. Dammn!

 

[stihl86]

As for the Stihls, the 180 is an occasional user saw. The 220 is targeted for the construction trade and is rated about equal to a MS260. I think the 220 might cut faster with .325, but I'm sure they have their reasons to use 3/8 pitch. They are true chain saws, and worth every penny. Both are well made and durable and have their place. No spark plugs, fuel-mix, stale fuel, ethanol, air filters, exhaust fumes and so on. Brushes can be changed quickly on all. Being electric there is no torque curve. The oiling system is similar to their other saws as are the chain brakes. Portability is a major drawback. The Husky belongs in Home Depot (like most of their saws).
We sell both. The smaller saws are popular for ice sculptures and carving. We rarely get them in for repairs.

 

[bytehoven]

My 1st chainsaw was a Craftsman bought to cut up a fallen Mimosa tree. It did the job but was toast after it was finished. I didn't know anything about chains and keeping them sharp, proper oiling, etc.

Now that I have expanded my experience with saws, chains, bar length, etc... I believe I would be a much better electric chain saw owner.

An electric saw with a 12"/14" bar with Picco Micro chain could be useful and alternative to pulling out the gas saws in some situations.

If I were to buy another electric saw, I think I would get a Mikita, but would do some research to see if which saws could run my Stihl 3/8" Picco and Picoo Micro bars.

The other side of the coin for me. I use my gas saws so little, compared to many AS members, I'd rather run them to continue their break in.

I never priced the Stihl electric saws. What are they asking $$$?

 

[Trigger Man]

Maybe I should sell my 2 strokes, and get a generator and a 220, hell no more mix, air filters sparkplugs etc. lol

All joking aside they probably are good for what there intended for. I just can't see why the price tag is so high.

 

[sawbones]

never ran the stihl but I did cut a log with the 316. looks like a sturdy unit.


I just collect the litttle "shockers"

lots of old ones too.

 

[caliman99]

Yep, That's why i went with the cheapie.

LOL. Your picture is the exact saw I'm talking about! (I took the tip guard off just because it's insulting LOL)

I agree 100% that it was a shocker how much better it cuts than I ever would have thought.

Question for you though: does the oil pump in yours work? Mine died about six cuts in. It's a VERY low-end setup, about as expected.

Just to avoid confusion: I do own and love gas saws--see my signature. But the main thing that made me want to try an electric was a very specific need: a QUIET saw I could trim blanks with after dark and not get kicked out of my own house.

And then I thought... well if a cheap saw works this well... what about a well-made saw by a manufacturer whose products I respect?

About the cost: you guys are right: scary.

But another part of my brain says that Husq and Stihl gas saws ain't cheap either. But I believe they're worth their price: well-designed, well-made, durable quality tools. So... I would expect their electric models to be worth their price also, right? hmmmm...

 

[bytehoven]

Here is a pretty good electric chain saw review.

http://www.toolsofthetrade.net/industry-news.asp?sectionID=1492&articleID=494387&artnum=1

 

[john taliaferro]

yep , well the huskey broke the 25.00 switch 3 times in a year. igave it to a friend .ordered up a 220 wow it will pull 20" in oak, it takes a 20 amp breaker though it will pop a 15 when ya load it. I got a 1.25 p&n gouge that i have not broke yet they are tough. what lathe :censored: them are some sceary looking saws!

 

[caliman99]

As for the Stihls...

Wow. you guys are too quick for me. I missed a bunch of posts while I typed my last reply.

Thanks, stihl86! You covered a lot of good points. Can I hit you with a couple of follow-ups?

I realize noise is somewhat subjective. I'm not even sure how much quieter than a gas saw the cheap electric is, on a straight decibel measurement. Maybe it's just a different frequency, or a narrower range of sounds or the harmonics of the materials it's made from? But it fits into the "allowed after dark" category of power tools.

Having said all that...

1) is there a big difference in volume between the 180 and 220?

2) Which of these (if either) would you agree with: "They have bigger motors and fans than the cheapie, so they are louder," or "They are much higher quality and better-designed than the cheapie, so they are quieter?"

3) The 220 is spec'd only half a HP higher than the 180. Can you explain a little more what makes it a "true saw" vs the 180 being an "occasional use saw"? I think I get what you're saying, but just to make sure... more rugged build? faster motor? better drive linkage? other?

4) Pretty sure my usage falls into the "occasional" category: crosscuts and occasional rip cuts through 4-8" wide X 6-18" thick sections of green hardwood; 12-20 such cuts a week; no need for portability; no brush clearing, construction or demo needs; big need for reduced noise. Considering I'm a Stihl fan, when the cheapie dies, would I be happy with a 180?

Thanks a lot in advance!

I just collect the litttle "shockers"

Those are some pretty cool pictures of old machines! Is there a thread somewhere where you talk about them? I'd be interested in reading it if there is!

 

[Wife'nHubby]

When I was looking at the Stihl chainsaw boots which contain Kevlar I read the following warning on their website:

WARNING FOR ELECTRIC CHAIN SAW USERS!
The fibers will not stop the sprocket on most electric chain saws because of their constant high torque.

(source: http://www.stihldealer.net/productde...rodid-678.aspx)

Which would probably also mean PPE won't protect you, or will be less effective, if using an electric chainsaw.

Shari

 

[hoss]

I have used the 220 stihl and it is stronger than I thought it would be. I've been trying to lay my hands on the 220V version of the stihl E30 for a while now. I have talked to guys that have run 48" bars on those monsters.

 

[stihl sawing]

LOL. Your picture is the exact saw I'm talking about! (I took the tip guard off just because it's insulting LOL)


Question for you though: does the oil pump in yours work? Mine died about six cuts in. It's a VERY low-end setup, about as expected.

...

It works fine, actually over oils. I took the tip gaurd off too after those pics. It was in the way.

 

[stihl sawing]

When I was looking at the Stihl chainsaw boots which contain Kevlar I read the following warning on their website:

WARNING FOR ELECTRIC CHAIN SAW USERS!
The fibers will not stop the sprocket on most electric chain saws because of their constant high torque.

(source: http://www.stihldealer.net/productde...rodid-678.aspx)

Which would probably also mean PPE won't protect you, or will be less effective, if using an electric chainsaw.

Shari

The electric saws don't stop when the trigger is released, the chain moves with the motor. You have to be careful when you finish a cut . You gotta wait till it stops turning.

 

[SawTroll]

Husky 320?

So... it took me about 5 minutes to start daydreaming about the "real" electric chainsaws. Husqvarna 316e. Stihl MSE 180 and MSE 220.

Why isn't the Husky 320 an option, don't they offer it in the US?

It has more power than the 316, but is otherwise the same.

 

[B_Turner]

I have had a couple electrics for a while now and recently bought a couple more.

I've had a 220 for maybe 7 years now and I go along with posters that it is in a class of it's own. Heavy, awkward but strong as an ox and can pretty easily pull a 20 inch bar with fresh square. Two metal dogs as well, and a good noodler. Other electrics have so little room behind the sprocket that noodles tend to bunch up and push the chain off the sprocket.

It afterruns about 7 seconds, though which makes using it take a special attitude. I really like it and run it more days than not.

I also have a makita uc4030a I bought a few months ago and I ordered a stihl 140 which I am going to pick up in a couple days.

For serious cutting, I prefer the 220 by a mile. For light trimming, I prefer a saw with a coast down break which makes a saw much handier to use. Release the trigger and the chain stops in less than a second. It's a great thing and worth paying for.

Plus the uc4030a has soft start as well which is nice.

I haven't tried a 316e (newer one with coast down break), and I would like to compare it to the 4030a as they are a similar configuration (inline).

I bought the Stihl 140 (also a coast down brake) on the recommendation of ice carvers as that is their preferred saw I am told. In part I bought it because of the light weight. I'll know what I think in a couple days. I find the side mount motors like the stihls awkward to cut in certain positions (and kind of unbalanced) but the 140/180 are light enough I want to give one a try.

One thing that also puts the 220 the real chainsaw class of it's own (as opposed to a bit of a toy like the others) is that it takes real bars (and can take different replaceable drive sprockets which some electrics don't).

Basically I can run any of my stihl bars (or universal mount carving bars) in the 220. My other electrics have pretty wimpy mounts, and the the bar and sprockets barely line up even with their wimpy bars and skinny (and expensive) 3/8 lp drum sprockets. In fact the uc4030a doesn't really even line up at the bar and sprocket and I can see wear happening already. I think it's a funky design and wish the sprocket was further out from the saw body. I don't know if they are all like that or not.

With the 220 I can easily run 3/8 (which I can't run on any other of my electrics), 325 or 1/4. That is something I have come to appreciate more and more. In fact, right now my 220 is wearing a 28 inch bar for a special application. Try that with one of the others....