Homelite Chainsaws

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Per service manual, engine needs to be serviced at 90 psi. At 125 psi it should run. How old is saw? Points or solid state ignition? Start with a new plug gapped at .025. Sounds like you have fuel issues. After you rebuild carb and replace filter and line, leave the gas cap cracked open when trying to start saw. If the tank is not vented, fuel has a hard time reaching the carb. ( especially with a full tank). This eliminates one fuel issue possibility.
Per your cheat sheet on the # it's a 85. Pulled carb and cleaned last night everything looked good other than lacquer. Gaskets were still soft and flexable. New plug today. Old one throwing good fire but maybe not enough.
 
Good day, has anyone bought one of those model 750 pistons I see on ebay. I think lil red barn was the seller.

Just curious on fit and quality ect.... I guess anything is better than nothing, i was just super surprised to see them on a random search...

Mike IN WI
 
I bought a husky 268 piston from them. I think they go out of their way to use good parts. they even had a long instruction page describing how to leak test after installing it etc.

Brian
 
I picked up a 922 this past weekend. I had to swap out the throttle rod/lever with one from another HS. Much tighter. From what I am guessing this carb HS-162, appears to have the semi-fixed main jet. Fuel enters the jet directly from the metering chamber as well as the needle. No check value at all. Saw seems happy at 1 3/8 L and 3/4 H. I blocked off the governor. It is running WOT and is clearly fat. Will have to tinker in the wood.

I know the HS-151A used on the later series had the semi-fixed setup. Perhaps there were other HS's with the same feature? I am curious.


Homelite Super XL-922 1.jpg Tillotson HS-162 XL-922 1.jpg
 
I have a "new" SXL925 that has the same trouble, blocking the governor did not help much. If you find an answer please post it. I was thinking about soldering that brass jet but it is a sort of a one way only deal so I did not do it. I do not have another carb to try. I will check to see which carb I do have, can't remember the number just now.
 
I have a "new" SXL925 that has the same trouble, blocking the governor did not help much. If you find an answer please post it. I was thinking about soldering that brass jet but it is a sort of a one way only deal so I did not do it. I do not have another carb to try. I will check to see which carb I do have, can't remember the number just now.

I'd be interested in finding out the number on your carb. I would like to know if this document Homelite provided for the HS-151A is applicable to other carbs with the same semi-fixed setup. That is, if the inside of a HS-151A is the same as the carb I posted.

Here is a document Homelite provided for the HS-151A carbs. Different tuning, to say the least.
 

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I'd be interested in finding out the number on your carb. I would like to know if this document Homelite provided for the HS-151A is applicable to other carbs with the same semi-fixed setup. That is, if the inside of a HS-151A is the same as the carb I posted.

Here is a document Homelite provided for the HS-151A carbs. Different tuning, to say the least.


Well, the carb I have is a RS151B648. No idea what the 648 means but since they made A's and B's, I'm gonna guess it is a later carb. Anyway, with the governor valve blocked off it adjusts like the sheet you sent above. That is, I set the idle "normally" like in the memo, then open the throttle and try to find where the high speed needle leans out. It will not lean out and it sputters under load, richer than it should be. It isn't horrible since I blocked the governor (it got better when I did that) but it does not run right and it is hard to convince myself that it could not run better if it was leaner.

I have not taken the carb apart to look for the fixed main jet but I gotta believe its just like the photo above. I am suspecting there is a defect somewhere that is letting fuel past the metering system. Maybe the high needle seat is damaged and won't seal when shut or possibly a porosity in the carb body letting fuel bypass. ???
 
Well, the carb I have is a RS151B648. No idea what the 648 means but since they made A's and B's, I'm gonna guess it is a later carb. Anyway, with the governor valve blocked off it adjusts like the sheet you sent above. That is, I set the idle "normally" like in the memo, then open the throttle and try to find where the high speed needle leans out. It will not lean out and it sputters under load, richer than it should be. It isn't horrible since I blocked the governor (it got better when I did that) but it does not run right and it is hard to convince myself that it could not run better if it was leaner.

I have not taken the carb apart to look for the fixed main jet but I gotta believe its just like the photo above. I am suspecting there is a defect somewhere that is letting fuel past the metering system. Maybe the high needle seat is damaged and won't seal when shut or possibly a porosity in the carb body letting fuel bypass. ???

This may sound goofy to you but, I had the same issue with a few HS carbs and gave up on them. I decided to take one apart (I didn't pull the welch plugs) and soak it in Sea Foam engine cleaner for a day or so. I put the Sea Foam in a glass and immersed the carb in it. Took it out and reassembled the carbs and they worked as they should.
I recycle the Sea Foam by straining it through a coffee filter.

Worth a try.
 
You are right, I don't see how soaking would help. It appears to me that my carb is letting in too much fuel already, so soaking would seem to remove something that would then let in more fuel... Well, my theories have not cured my carb so I will give that a try, certainly seems easy enough. When you say "Sea Foam engine cleaner" do you mean the normal Sea Foam that goes in the gas or oil of a car and comes in a red and white cone top can or is there some other Sea Foam product that I don't know about? Thanks for the suggestion.
 
Got a freebie today from a guy I fixed a Poulan for. Hasn't been running in probably 20 years and it has light carbon scoring on the piston but I think is still usable.

20160613_130438_resized.jpg
 
Great trade! Compression should be around 170 PSI if all is in good shape. They are very fast for a 58cc saw.

If you want links to the repair manual and an IPL let me know.

It likely has a Walbro SDC-31 carb which has an accelerater pump diaphragm. The gasket is included but the diaphragm is NLA. They are out there if you need one. Not included in any kits I've seen so far.

Well worth turning into a runner.
 

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