Homelite Chainsaws

[blk05crew]

Great trade! Compression should be around 170 PSI if all is in good shape. They are very fast for a 58cc saw.

If you want links to the repair manual and an IPL let me know.

It likely has a Walbro SDC-31 carb which has an accelerater pump diaphragm. The gasket is included but the diaphragm is NLA. They are out there if you need one. Not included in any kits I've seen so far.

Well worth turning into a runner.

Thanks Tim, don't think the compression is that high by the feel of it, I'll have to check tonight. The piston may or may not be good. Not sure if I want to put the time/effort into it, might see if there is a Homelite person out there interested in it. I need to look it over better tonight though.

 

[leecopland]

Thanks Tim, don't think the compression is that high by the feel of it, I'll have to check tonight. The piston may or may not be good. Not sure if I want to put the time/effort into it, might see if there is a Homelite person out there interested in it. I need to look it over better tonight though.

I may have a chain brake that would work with that saw.

 

[Hoggwood]

Got a freebie today from a guy I fixed a Poulan for. Hasn't been running in probably 20 years and it has light carbon scoring on the piston but I think is still usable.

View attachment 508174

Good score Nate. Sometimes the compression feels low until you get a film of mix in there. Especially if it has been sitting for a long time. Try some WD-40 in the exhaust port and crank it over a few times. I've one with a piston that is more than lightly scored. Runs strong.

The XL-76/130 etc. are the strongest pulling <60cc stock saw I have run. The one I just dropped the gasket from will yank the grip start from your hand. What really impresses me is their ability to plough through the big stuff when leaning on them. Deceptive torque in a small, tight package.

And the exhaust note is sublime.

 

[67L36Driver]

I've an accelerator pump diaphragm or two squirreled away for them.

 

[blk05crew]

Thanks for the info guys, I'll go over it some tonight and report back!

 

[blk05crew]

Cleaned up that Homelite last night and went over it a bit. Without doing anything compression on my gauge was 140 psi, saw has spark and the manual oiler works. Cleaned up pretty good too. Fuel line is done so I need to replace that. Any tips on than? It's missing the oil cap and I need to find a bar/chain for it and probably a carb kit is needed. Here are some pics though after being cleaned up. Is 140 psi decent for this saw?








Anybody tell me what this little screw going to the cylinder is for/does?

 

[fossil]

The little screw is holding the decomp. It's set when you set the fast idle. I didn't realize the 123's had those.

Make sure you pull the coil and clean out the cylinder fins. Crud packing in there was the demise of many of the Homelite P&C's

It should run well at 140 but it is typically higher.

If it runs well it should out cut a 3700.I can't remember if you have one of those.

 

[blk05crew]

The little screw is holding the decomp. It's set when you set the fast idle. I didn't realize the 123's had those.

Make sure you pull the coil and clean out the cylinder fins. Crud packing in there was the demise of many of the Homelite P&C's

It should run well at 140 but it is typically higher.

If it runs well it should out cut a 3700.I can't remember if you have one of those.

Thanks Tim, I thought it might be a decomp but wasn't sure since it's only 57cc. I'll clean the crap out of the fins soon too, good tip.
Comp may be higher than that too, I had a tough time screwing the gauge into the plug hole, first time it read around 125 but then I was able to screw it in further, did it again and it blew 140. Might not have been sealed up the best.
I sold my 3700 but I have a red thin ring 3.7, it is slightly ported and has a muff mod though so I think it's closer to a 4000 probably.

 

[fossil]

Those saws aren't hard to pull over but I doubt my wife could. The decomp was likely a selling point. If it has the red pillar looking Homelite chip they are prone to kicking back.

If all looks well the decomp may have carbon on it or on the seat.

 

[blk05crew]

Those saws aren't hard to pull over but I doubt my wife could. The decomp was likely a selling point. If it has the red pillar looking Homelite chip they are prone to kicking back.

If all looks well the decomp may have carbon on it or on the seat.

Tim, is replacing the fuel line on this just like on a Poulan 245A or 306A?

 

[fossil]

Not sure. I don't remember what I did on my 306 (CRAFT you know).

There's a grommet in the carb box that the line passes through to the carb barb which you have and it should be OK. There's another where it enters the fuel tank upper right above the clutch.

Take the clutch off and I also remove the oil pump to get at the hole easier. If that grommet is done, you will need a standard 3/8" OD X 1/4" ID X 1/8" panel thickness tank wall thickness ) grommet.

I use 1/4" OD X 1/8" ID Tygon line.

Grease the grommet up and work it into the hole with something blunt if you need a new grommet.

Feed a piece of wire through the grommet and out the fuel tank fill hole and attach a the fuel line (with a tapered cut like you would on a 3700)
Lube the Tygon and pull it through the grommet from the fuel tank fill hole end out through the grommet.

Draw more out and take the line through the carb box grommet and leave at least an inch or so hanging out.

Figure what you will need in fuel line length inside the tank, cut it, push in the new fuel filter and stuff it into the tank.

When you are putting the compression fittings back on the oil pump, just gently snug them up. Too tight and you will crush them and they will suck air. I usually blow the oiler lines out with low pressure air to get any gunk out of there. If the auto oiler is working well it will deliver a large amount of oil to the bar and chain.

I think you will like the saw. Quite smooth for a non anti vibe saw.

 

[blk05crew]

Not sure. I don't remember what I did on my 306 (CRAFT you know).

There's a grommet in the carb box that the line passes through to the carb barb which you have and it should be OK. There's another where it enters the fuel tank upper right above the clutch.

Take the clutch off and I also remove the oil pump to get at the hole easier. If that grommet is done, you will need a standard 3/8" OD X 1/4" ID X 1/8" panel thickness tank wall thickness ) grommet.

I use 1/4" OD X 1/8" ID Tygon line.

Grease the grommet up and work it into the hole with something blunt if you need a new grommet.

Feed a piece of wire through the grommet and out the fuel tank fill hole and attach a the fuel line (with a tapered cut like you would on a 3700)
Lube the Tygon and pull it through the grommet from the fuel tank fill hole end out through the grommet.

Draw more out and take the line through the carb box grommet and leave at least an inch or so hanging out.

Figure what you will need in fuel line length inside the tank, cut it, push in the new fuel filter and stuff it into the tank.

When you are putting the compression fittings back on the oil pump, just gently snug them up. Too tight and you will crush them and they will suck air. I usually blow the oiler lines out with low pressure air to get any gunk out of there. If the auto oiler is working well it will deliver a large amount of oil to the bar and chain.

I think you will like the saw. Quite smooth for a non anti vibe saw.

Thanks Tim, it actually is an anti vibe saw. I'll pick up some fuel line on my way home.

 

[fossil]

Nate,

I forgot to add,

Give me the diameter of the oil fill hole and I'll see if I have a spare cap. I do if it's the same size as an Xl-76 and I'll get it off to you.

 

[fossil]

Thanks Tim, it actually is an anti vibe saw. I'll pick up some fuel line on my way home.

Me DUH!

 

[blk05crew]

Nate,

I forgot to add,

Give me the diameter of the oil fill hole and I'll see if I have a spare cap. I do if it's the same size as an Xl-76 and I'll get it off to you.

Thanks Tim, I'll check this evening. Also I forgot to ask, is this model not as common as others, I don't find a lot on it anywhere other than acres and couple others here and there.

 

[fossil]

I've seen quite a few VI 130's up here which are very close to the 123's. No seems to bat an eye at those. Not sure how common VI 123's are. Definitely not as common as the standard models.

 

[67L36Driver]

Search for thread 'Fuel line trick' and you can see how I did several XL-101 types.

 

[Hoggwood]

I've used the existing line in place at both the tank and carb box to function as grommets. If it hasn't turned to mush, I cut the section of black line out and fish a length of Tygon through. It is tight in the tank, but you can work an awl carefully into the line to open it up a bit. Although new grommets are ideal, I never seem to have them on hand.

Tygon is smaller diameter and needs to be heated and stretched to fit at the carb nipple though.

 

[leecopland]

Nate,

I forgot to add,

Give me the diameter of the oil fill hole and I'll see if I have a spare cap. I do if it's the same size as an Xl-76 and I'll get it off to you.

"I think you will like the saw. Quite smooth for a non anti vibe saw." I think this one has AV even if old school.

 

[fossil]

I've used the existing line in place at both the tank and carb box to function as grommets. If it hasn't turned to mush, I cut the section of black line out and fish a length of Tygon through. It is tight in the tank, but you can work an awl carefully into the line to open it up a bit. Although new grommets are ideal, I never seem to have them on hand.

Tygon is smaller diameter and needs to be heated and stretched to fit at the carb nipple though.

That one has a straight line with grommets from the factory as did my VI200.

That line and the Super XL's had both as well.