Walbro RWJ-3

hey all,

I need a rebuild manual for the walbro RWJ-3.

thanks

Serg, what's the model # of that saw ?

Husqvarna K960, but there is NO workshop manual for it. The K750 uses a different carb and intake set up and the K1250 is not a strato and not sure what carb it uses but diifernt intake set up for sure.

there is now the K760 and the K970, the K970 is very similar but not sure if there is a WSM for it....

will get carb off in the next 2 nights...

found a rebuild process in a husky workshop manual for the old 2 series, it covers some tillotsons and walbros.....i used the WJ section. Im going to try and do a little write up on rebuilding this carb so bear with me.

remove the 4 screws from the cover on the control diaphragm side:

remove the cover (black), gasket (green), spacer (purple) control diaphragm and gasket (green):

undo the screw (yellow) and take out the needle valve (black), lever arm (green), shaft (red) and spring (purple):

turn the carb over:

remove the 4 screws:

remove the cover over the pump unit (green), remove the gasket (red) and the pump diaphragm (black):

using a pin (green) or such carefully remove the fuel screen (black) from its location (red):

remove the low (black) and high (red) speed jets: BUT FIRST carefully wind them in SOFTLY to their stops,DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN , noting how many turns ie: 1, 1.25, 1.5 etc then when you re assemble the carb you can get the settings close for intitial tuning by winding in SOFTLY to the stops and then backing out the same amount as recorded when dismantling. Also note which is which as there may be very slight differences between the needles and you dont want to mix them up:

remove the plug (black) from its location (red) on the control diaphragm side. I do this by CAREFULLY drilling a small hole through it and then plucking it out with an awl or such:

remove the fixed jet (black) from its location (red). I do this by using a punch and a plastic hammer and gently tap it through to the carb throat(venturi), tip and catch in hand. note that this carbs fuel inlet pipe does not allow it to sit flat during this process so carefully do it on the edge of your bench so the pipe can hang over and carb sit flat:

thats pretty much it for disassembly and now ready for cleaning. Ill be using fresh straight petrol for the cleaning. and then each part will be dried with compressed air CAREFULLY Im installing a carb kit so all gaskets and some other parts are replaced....Ill try and show it as I go.

Good step by step tutorial mate.

If you can still go back in and edit, right click the attachments, copy link location and paste into the body then add image tags [ img ] [ /img ] around the outside so the pics show up in the thread. (I had top space the brackets on the tags, they didn't show up in the original post)

Rick,
it wont let me do it or im doing something wrong??? a little help?

...................

think i just sorted it, ill finish tonight

Ok,so it turns out the carb is not a RWJ-3, but a RWJ-2....im not sure what the difference is but i cant imagine to much....I had the wrong (year) IPL...only 6 months difference but enough that Husky had changed carbs....

On with the rebuild:

Make sure you keep your work area and tools clean

I cleaned down all the parts I was reusing. Using fresh straight petrol in a canister gun, then blowing of with compressed air.

Spacer [control diaphragm side] (black), pump cover (red) control diaphragm cover (purple) main carb body (yellow) high and low speed needles (blue) semi fixed jet (green) cover(s) screws (white). Not showen are the spring and screw for the lever control valve that are also kept from the strip down.

first thing is to open your carb kit, generally there are 2 types, just diaphragms and a full rebuild quick which I'm using.

Starting on the control diaphragm side, first install the plug (black) into its location (red) CONVEX side UP. I use a soft faced hammer and drift punch upside down, as the striking end is a good fit with a slight radius to seat the plug like factory(ish).

next fit the semi fixed jet (black) into its location hole (red). I use the same dift punch, normal way, as its almost identical size to the SFJ. You can also see the plug (yellow) fitted.



Make sure you drive it in slowly and square. finishing the SFJ (black) flush with the carb body (red).