Stihl 044 Rebuild

mdavlee said:

There are both 10mm and 12mm 044s. The cutoff is in the 129 somewhere in the first three numbers of the serial number.

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The first digit in a Stihl serial number is where it is made.
And when looking at serial number for the 12mm change
this needs to be taken in to account.
When Stihl list a change by serial number it will look something like X1294764

1= Germany
2= U.S.A
3= Brazil

Also some Stihl's have an X stamped before or after serial number.
But it doesn't count, What I was told if it has the X stamp.
It means it was pulled from the line and run and tested by Inspector.
Off top of my head I have 2 with the X stamp MS200 and MS361.

TT

Finally picked up an OEM p&c off ebay so I can start moving forward again. I'm going to send an e-mail to the "cheapchainsawparts" guy on ebay and see if he can source all the parts I need in one go.

Anyone know which style of air filter cover I will need for this saw? I keep seeing two different styles for the 044's.

Here's my list:
air filter cover (not sure which style fits)
impulse line
fuel tank cap (non-flip)
muffler cover + gasket
cylinder gasket
carb rebuild kit for RB36
clutch springs, e-clip and washer
needle bearing for clutch

Please let me know if you think I'm missing something.

Hope everyone had a Merry Christmas!

Just remember some parts can be had from the dealer new for less then epay sellers get......

I've got the new cylinder and piston installed. I measured squish with solder through the sparkplug hole with no gasket. Here are the numbers:

Exhaust side: .03"
Flywheel side: .028"
Clutch side: .03"
Intake side: .028"

Anyone see any problems with these numbers? I used Permatex Copper for the gasket after I took those measurements.

I also did a vacuum test on it using some bicycle innertube under the muffler, spark plug in with some anti-seize on the threads and a condom over the intake secured with a hose clamp. I hooked the vacuum pump up to the impulse nipple and I'm still getting a slow leak, but I dont know if its from my covers or not. No positive pressure pump, so I'm going to use some 2-cycle oil on the crank seals and see if it gets sucked in....

Its a good idea to check twice, but your numbers are well within the safe range. If you can come up with a way to pressure test that saw that would be great. I find it easier to find the leaks with pressure once I know one is present with the vac test. The oil will work though. IIRC the clutch side seal on the 044 is a bit of a managerie.

Ok, I figured out a way to pressurize the case and found a leak on the flywheel side oil seal and also a leak coming up between the spacer bushing and the crankshaft on the clutch side. I pulled the spacer bushing and there is no o-ring where there should be one. Any ideas on where the heck it went??

Here's some pictures. There is a shiny spot on the crankshaft and a corresponding shiny spot on the bushing. There isnt a ridge or anything, feels smooth. Also, the outside of the bushing looks like it burnt or something, but its not as rough as the picture makes it look.

View attachment 166143
View attachment 166144
View attachment 166145

Pulled the flywheel side oil seal after almost screwing it up beyond return. In the end I took an old screw driver, used a cutting blade on the dremel to put a 1mm deep notch near the tip, then used a grinder to shave it down thin so it would fit. Popped out quick after that. Since I was going to replace one seal I pulled the clutch side as well.

Just to be sure, this what it should look like under the clutch side oil seal? That black thing feels like it could come out, but I didnt want to start prying on it yet.
View attachment 166209

If I'm right it is a seal for the bearing...It will pop off if you pry..



The one on the right has it...

You are doing a great job on that saw, stay with it, it will be worth the work.

southbound said:

If I'm right it is a seal for the bearing...It will pop off if you pry..

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Ummm....dont pry that. That is the cage for the bearing. Some of the OEM bearings have plastic cages.

wigglesworth said:

Ummm....dont pry that. That is the cage for the bearing. Some of the OEM bearings have plastic cages.

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:agree2:best leave that alone

While I wait for the oil seals and carb rebuild kit to come in I have another question for you chainsaw geniuses:hmm3grin2orange:
What is the difference between the two styles of of air filter covers? Since this saw was missing the air filter cover I need to order a replacement, but I see two different types. Not sure which I should order.

Looks like it is set up for the older style HD filter where the gasket is on the filter base and not the filter itself. I believe that the very early 044's had a different filter system. Not the HD style we have now or even its predecessor. Wiggs can correct me if I am wrong on any of this. lol You might want to consider a Max-Flo if you don't have a good filter or a cover.

Pressed in the flywheel side oil seal just now. Does it need to be flush, recessed, or sticking up a little? Right now its sticking up just a bit, but before I tapped it down flush I wanted to double check.
View attachment 169104
Thanks

Will work on getting the clutch side seal in latter. Need to figure out how to get the seal over that little step.

How easy should to oil pump turn? Mine doesnt turn easily at all.

It should be pretty slick. If not strip it out and see if its gummed up.You might get away with replacing the worm drive which will be plastic.Great project btw. Nice touch by the previous owner, cleaning his paintbrush on the top cover.

It's looking good. I just finished mine and am working on fine tunig it when I have spare time. Be patient when you get to that point. That was the hardest part for me. It looks like you are a fast learner.

Ok, how do these seals look? Seated to the correct depth??
View attachment 169152
View attachment 169153

Good advice on taking the oil pump apart. Its much much smoother after tearing it down and cleaning it up.

southbound said:

If I'm right it is a seal for the bearing...It will pop off if you pry..

The one on the right has it...

Click to expand...

There a phenolic cage bearing, high temp and high speed. If it came out with it try put one back in steel cage bearings don't compare.

Carb question during my carb rebuild. I pressed out the valve jet and am wondering if there is a specific orientation that it needs to be put in at? I noticed a hole on the side of it, so does that hole have to line up with something inside the carb body?