Another trailer mod question

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fields_mj

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I have a small 4'x5.5' trailer that I'd like to extend out to 4'x6.5'. The main fraim is 4" I beam, with angle iron cross members, and the cross member on the back is missing. Any suggestions on the best way to add 12" to the lenght so that I can fit my ATV on it?

Thanks,
Mark
 
Easiest thing to do would be to add a foot to the rear. If you go that route, the axle should be repositioned so the weight distribution on the trailer and the tongue weight don't get out of whack.
 
Easiest thing to do would be to add a foot to the rear. If you go that route, the axle should be repositioned so the weight distribution on the trailer and the tongue weight don't get out of whack.

Actually, the axle is already way to far back, so adding to the rear will only help with that. I still may have to cut it off, and move it forward some more. Right now I'm just trying to figure out a decent way of adding the 12" to the rear. The trailer will be used to transport the ATV, and also used to haul smaller quantites of wood behind the ATV, so I'm trying to keep it light. Right now, it has three treated 8' 4x4s mounted too it extending it out to a 4x8 size, and a sheet of 3/4" ply wood screwed on top and 2x4 rails. It's basically junk in its current condition. I plan on stripping all the wood off, and extending the rear 12" so that the ATV fits on it comfortably, weld on a few anchor points for tie downs, and maybe a 18" or a 24" rail. The axle sits just a little to far back even for the 4x8 configuration, so I can't help but think that I'm going to cut it off and move it at the end.
 
Sounds like you don't need opinions on a plan. The one you already got seems spot on.

When you add that 12" on, don't just butt weld the extension. Overlap everything so it ends up nice a strong. Gussets in the corners are your friend.
 
Sounds like you don't need opinions on a plan. The one you already got seems spot on.

When you add that 12" on, don't just butt weld the extension. Overlap everything so it ends up nice a strong. Gussets in the corners are your friend.

Yeah, my OP was a little misleading. I have a rough plan, just trying to figure out the details about the best way to make it happen. Wish I had some pics, but I'm not willing to let anyone even see it until I get the wood torn off of it.

Right now I'm thinking about getting a couple feet of 4" channel, and butting it up to the 4" I beams, then going back and running about 2 feet of 3" channel under the seam to tie it all together. A bit of over kill, but the 3" channel shouldn't be very expensive, nor very heavy.

The other option would be to just use 3" channel, and run it back into the 4" I beam about a foot or so. That would be less weight, and for no more weight that I'm going to be putting on it, I would think it would be strong enough.

Any opinions between the two options, or suggestions on some others?

Thanks,
Mark
 
I-beam is inherently far stronger than C-channel. I'd add I-beam to each main rail to get the length and then plate the the joints on the top, bottom and both sides. The angle for the cross braces should be just fine. It may seem like overkill but I personally hate it when stupid stuff happens like my recently extended trailer frame breaks in half with a load of wood on it.
 
I-beam is inherently far stronger than C-channel. I'd add I-beam to each main rail to get the length and then plate the the joints on the top, bottom and both sides. The angle for the cross braces should be just fine. It may seem like overkill but I personally hate it when stupid stuff happens like my recently extended trailer frame breaks in half with a load of wood on it.

I understand and agree completely. The only reason that I'm willing to be a little chinsey on this is because the axle is off of an old car (I think), and I don't trust it to support more than an additional 1,000 lbs anyway. Since the wood would be hauld with the ATV, it would need to be loaded such that the trailer was evenly ballanced. I'm acutally more concerned about the frame braking while I'm running down the road with the ATV behind me. On one hand, watching and ATV bounce down the road would make for a funny youtube video. On the other hand, watching my beat up ol yamaha do flips in my rearview mirror would make me loose my lunch.
 
If you could post some pics of your trailer, it would help for us to try to figure out the best way for you to do the extension. 4" channel going to 3" channel seems WAY overkill for the size of the trailer.

Beefie
 
If you could post some pics of your trailer, it would help for us to try to figure out the best way for you to do the extension. 4" channel going to 3" channel seems WAY overkill for the size of the trailer.

Beefie

I agree. I'll try to snap a few pics to make it a little clearer, but first I want to get the wood off of it. It will make the pics a little more clear to boot.

The only reason that I was going to go with 4" was to match the existing 4" I beam. Camr has me thinking that I'll stick with the 4" I beam for extension, and then maybe some 2"x3/16" flat stock for plates on top, and maybe on the sides because I'm an anal retentive scardy cat..... :)
 
If you have good welding skills just butt weld the I beam extentions on, then fish plate the inside and outside of the I beam with some 3/16 or 1/4 plate and your good to go...;)
 
If you have good welding skills just butt weld the I beam extentions on, then fish plate the inside and outside of the I beam with some 3/16 or 1/4 plate and your good to go...;)

That's what I'm thinking now. Actualy, for a 12" extension on such a small trailer, I will probably only plate the top, and outside of each I beam with some 1 1/2" x 3/16" that I already have. The I beam isn't much wider than that anyway, and with 4" of leverage across the beam, it doesn't need much. The butt weld alond should do, but adding a couple of plates is just to easy not to do, especially when the steel is already laying there on the garage floor.
 
post up some pics.. if i see it i may be able to help ya..
i have done this before but if you dont get it right it will be unstable at speed..
 

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