Carb ID for Mcculloch Eager Beaver 2.0

[Torquin]

Dad gave me this old Eager Beaver 2.0 to fix for him, that he got cheap or free someplace but it's getting no fuel. I pulled it apart and cleaned the fuel pump and it seemed like it wanted to run but soon quit again. I'm figuring if I can find a new carb for it I'll just throw one on it and be done with it. Alternatively, a carb kit would be nice. I'm guessing it has a common carb for these small engines.
My saw numbers are: 60012312 and
12-083269.
I was trying to look it up on an Arinet site, but can't find one that has my model number to look it up by.

Thanks,
Chris

 

[67L36Driver]

Tophandle or conventional??

Check this thread: http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/180836.htm

The E.B. 2014 has a Zama. The tophandle IDK.

 

[Torquin]

I have the top-handle PITA.

Thanks,
Chris

 

[Roanoker494]

Should have a Zama M1 M7. Bad news is carb kits, as well as new carbs, are expensive and not always easy to find. There is also a slight possiblity of it having a Walbro MDC, which are easier and cheaper to get parts for. Just need to look at the carb again and see if it is stamped Zama or Walbro.

 

[Torquin]

Just searched for that Zama, and it sure looks like what I have. I don't know how similar a Walbro version might be so I guess I'll have to break it down again. Should go a whole lot faster this time though.

Thanks,
Chris

 

[Roanoker494]

Just searched for that Zama, and it sure looks like what I have. I don't know how similar a Walbro version might be so I guess I'll have to break it down again. Should go a whole lot faster this time though.

Thanks,
Chris

Both carbs look very similar but I am almost willing to bet it has the Zama, the walbro were mostly found on the older versions of the mini macs. The last time I seen the Zama kits they were 20-25 bucks each. I believe I did see a couple NOS carbs on Ebay for something like 80 bucks. Just keep in mind that even a good running mini mac is not worth much on the market. I see good running saws sell for 30-40 bucks and non runners for 20-25.

 

[Fish]

Getting to the carb is fun on those, actually getting the saw back together without fuel and oil leaking everywhere is the real problem.

If someone brings me one, I back out the mixture screws 2 turns or so, pour out the old gas, put in fresh, prime the carb several times, until it runs on its own, run it a while on the rich settings, then readjust the carb. Then if it runs, charge him $5 or so, if it doesn't, tell him
"I'm sorry Mr. Smith, she died on the table....." Then give it it's last rites.

 

[Torquin]

Yeah, I understand. I'm not gonna dump too much into this thing. Dad asked me to fix it so I'm just doing due diligence to see if I can make it right again. I'm also keeping my eye out for a better replacement. I would give him my 009L, but the poor guy can't seem to start it, though it always starts on the first try for me. :confused2:
Thanks for the help on this. Tomorrow I'll try to get it pulled back apart and see exactly what the carb is.

Thanks,
Chris

 

[Torquin]

I pulled it apart again. It has an "M7" and another number on it. I went through it again, since I have nothing to lose, and made sure all ports were clear and clean, and pulled the float valve also. The float valve seemed like it was not opening properly, so I bent the arm for it up just a hair, so the valve could move a little, before I put it back together. I did not see any holes or tears in the diaphragms when I had it apart. It's still not getting fuel though. If I squirt WD40 into it, then just a tiny amount of carb cleaner, it fires right up and runs great, smoking all the while, until it uses up the carb cleaner. I'm thinking that the float valve is not opening or the fuel pump is not pumping.

No, this thing isn't worth the time I am spending on it, but now it is a challenge, and I hope will lead me to more experience in troubleshooting and repairing chainsaw engines.

Thanks,
Chris

 

[Roanoker494]

The fuel pump works off a vacuum pulse from the crankcase which comes through the thin black plastic intake spacer. Make sure that impulse hole is clear, the plastic intake plate is not cracked and replace the gaskets on both sides of that intake. You can buy a sheet of gasket material from most auto parts stores and make your own gaskets using a small pair of scissors and a drill, make sure to use a wooden backstop and go slowly to keep the drill bit from tearing the gasket to pieces.

Also want to check the fuel line and filter to make sure the carb is even getting fuel.

 

[67L36Driver]

The fuel pump works off a vacuum pulse from the crankcase which comes through the thin black plastic intake spacer. Make sure that impulse hole is clear, the plastic intake plate is not cracked and replace the gaskets on both sides of that intake. You can buy a sheet of gasket material from most auto parts stores and make your own gaskets using a small pair of scissors and a drill, make sure to use a wooden backstop and go slowly to keep the drill bit from tearing the gasket to pieces.

Also want to check the fuel line and filter to make sure the carb is even getting fuel.

A leather punch (star wheel thingy) works very well to make holes for screws and passages. A paper punch (think three ring binder) can be used to nibble out a large hole like for the carb throat.

I make all my gaskets.

 

[Torquin]

When I began pulling it apart tonight I was loosening the screw on the carb and it started leaking all over, so I know the fuel line is clear and feeding to the carb. I'll have to pull it apart again and see if there is anything else I can do in there.

Is there any way to simulate the impulse from the engine with the carb removed from the engine?

Thanks,
Chris

 

[Torquin]

Well, it might be all my fault. I noticed last night, after reassembling, that I had a slight fuel leak. I left is dripping, since I have read that these things are famous for leaky fuel tanks. I saw that it had stopped this afternoon when I got into the garage. I thought maybe the carb was leaking because I had damaged a gasket, but not sure. So I pulled on it a few times just to make sure it wouldn't run, and to get the fuel leak started again. Once I had it most of the way apart I pulled on it again, to make sure the fuel leak was still there so I could find it when I pulled the engine out of the case. The darn thing fired up. However at this point the engine is bouncing around in the case, and the fuel tank is waving out the front because I already pulled the front cover so I had to cut it off.

I pulled it out of the case and found the leak, a pinched fuel line. This may be the cause of it not getting fuel, as I may have actually fixed the carb, but pinched the fuel line on reassembly. I looked and can't see how it could get pinched, but I must have missed something in there on reassembly.

Now the fuel line is cut and I need a new one. Anyone know if I can just use a piece of the correct diameter fuel line? This one has a formed elbow and curve in it, and I'll bet it's hard to find.

Edit: As I looked online for a new fuel line I realized that I had some fuel line for a Husky, still attached to the fuel filter. Went out a tried it, and it fit. I just reassembled the saw, enough to start it, with care, and it runs fine, so far. Only ran it for about 5 minutes, but that's long enough to say it isn't running on the WD40 or carb cleaner I put in it. I will finish reassembly tomorrow.

Thanks for the help guys.


Chris

 

[67L36Driver]

Well, it might be all my fault. I noticed last night, after reassembling, that I had a slight fuel leak. I left is dripping, since I have read that these things are famous for leaky fuel tanks. I saw that it had stopped this afternoon when I got into the garage. I thought maybe the carb was leaking because I had damaged a gasket, but not sure. So I pulled on it a few times just to make sure it wouldn't run, and to get the fuel leak started again. Once I had it most of the way apart I pulled on it again, to make sure the fuel leak was still there so I could find it when I pulled the engine out of the case. The darn thing fired up. However at this point the engine is bouncing around in the case, and the fuel tank is waving out the front because I already pulled the front cover so I had to cut it off.
I pulled it out of the case and found the leak, a pinched fuel line. This may be the cause of it not getting fuel, as I may have actually fixed the carb, but pinched the fuel line on reassembly. I looked and can't see how it could get pinched, but I must have missed something in there on reassembly.

Now the fuel line is cut and I need a new one. Anyone know if I can just use a piece of the correct diameter fuel line? This one has a formed elbow and curve in it, and I'll bet it's hard to find.

Edit: As I looked online for a new fuel line I realized that I had some fuel line for a Husky, still attached to the fuel filter. Went out a tried it, and it fit. I just reassembled the saw, enough to start it, with care, and it runs fine, so far. Only ran it for about 5 minutes, but that's long enough to say it isn't running on the WD40 or carb cleaner I put in it. I will finish reassembly tomorrow.

Thanks for the help guys.


Chris

Wish you had a video of that. ROFL