Changing teeth?

[Stumper]

Dogdad, Yes the outer edge of the carbide-you shorten it back until you have a sharp edge again-Don't thin the big flat surface. By way of further information-green wheels grind carbide and steel but the steel rips the surface off the wheel. Grind relief on the end of the tooth shank with your standard aluminium oxide wheel then sharpen the carbide on the green wheel (silicon carbide) You'll still get steel into the carbide wheel a little but the greenwheel will last a lot longer. Remember that the cutting edge needs to be the outermost/furthest forward part of the tooth as it spins. I had a bunch of teeth "professionally" sharpened. The guy got the carbide edge sharp but he ground no relief-He ground the carbide at 90 degrees to its flat face. Since the carbide is set into the tooth shank at an angle that left the bootom of the carbide and top of the steel shank sticking out further than the sharp edge=no bite.

P.S. Wear a dust mask-tungsten carbide dust is bad and the silicon carbide dust from the wheel is worse for your lungs. Stump grinders need not shorten their lives with "miner's lung"-silicosis.

 

[dogdad]

Thanks for the info

 

[flyinmechanic]

Sharp!

Look at you shavings coming off of the wheel as you grind. If the shavings are long & clean-cut then you good-to-go. If you got a pile of sawdust down there, then you owe all of us a cold-one!

I keep a few sets of re-sharpened teeth in my truck but I usually sharpen the teeth right on the machine as needed, (after shutting it down!!)

takes about 30 seconds per tooth (Vermeer pro-series or Rayco) then its off to the next stump.
Try to keep the original angle on the teeth, and you have to remove the metal above the carbide when you shorten the carbide or else the steel will burn on the stump and the carbide won't make much contact. And do not grind the bottom of the carbide to make it thinner.
There is an exception to this rule, sometimes I will grind a slight concave bottom on the tooth and really sharpen the edges, this is a real aggressive cut though, kinda like green-teeth but better! use this for Live-oak & heartwood southern pine.

 

[stumpy66]

important!! make sure you do the bolts that secure you teeth with a tourque wrench that goes to at least 200 ft lbs.....else they will come loose......i might try the sharpening on the wheel stuff....try it once......if you sharpen on a green wheel, wear a mask......i still have a cough and bad chest from sharpening and grinding in dust................