Evacuating Brute Force 5800 Water

[MidwestDan]

Good morning,

I have very limited knowledge of outdoor wood stoves, but I’m hoping someone might be able to give me advice on this. I hope I’m posting this in an appropriate location here.

My dad passed away last year and at their property, they have a Brute Force 5800 stove. It’s been used for the past seven Michigan winters and we kept it going again this year. We really want to evacuate the system of the water, discontinue use of the boiler and use the standard furnace in the home, as it’s difficult for my mom to keep it going.

The individual who installed the Brute Force unit told me that it could just be drained and blown out and it would be fine, but not much guidance beyond that. My question is, has anyone here done that? I’ve got a big compressor, but I don’t see a fitting of any sort or a nipple to connect a compressor to. Is there a good location to fit one to? I’m just wondering what the best way to blow out the unit might be. It’s just water and rust inhibitor in the system - not antifreeze. Any guidance would be greatly appreciated!

 

[SandRidgeMill]

As far as draining the boiler, there should be a ball valve on the bottom in the back of the unit. Open the valve, let it drain. To clear the lines, cut the lines in the house and at the boiler and blow them out with air. Hope this helps


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[rancher2]

Midwest Dan
Welcome to the forum. Sorry to hear about your dad. Most of these type of heaters don't get setup to drain and blow out the system because folks are using them in the cold weather and they don't want to spend the money to add the hardware to be able to do it. For piece of mind you might want to hire a dealer so you know it done right and nothing is going to get broken from freezing. Since your mom isn't going to use it any more the dealer may have a idea what its worth and how to market it. The last one I helped moth ball we added some fittings to blow it out and when done we put some RV antifreeze in the lines and some in the unit to be sure it would be ok. The friend had it shut down a couple years and then sold it.

 

[MidwestDan]

As far as draining the boiler, there should be a ball valve on the bottom in the back of the unit. Open the valve, let it drain. To clear the lines, cut the lines in the house and at the boiler and blow them out with air. Hope this helps


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That helps a lot, Steve. Thanks! The ball valve on the boiler should drain it at a low enough point that there won’t be any residual water (or at least minimal residual water) left in the boiler?

 

[MidwestDan]

Midwest Dan
Welcome to the forum. Sorry to hear about your dad. Most of these type of heaters don't get setup to drain and blow out the system because folks are using them in the cold weather and they don't want to spend the money to add the hardware to be able to do it. For piece of mind you might want to hire a dealer so you know it done right and nothing is going to get broken from freezing. Since your mom isn't going to use it any more the dealer may have a idea what its worth and how to market it. The last one I helped moth ball we added some fittings to blow it out and when done we put some RV antifreeze in the lines and some in the unit to be sure it would be ok. The friend had it shut down a couple years and then sold it.

Thanks for the information!