how do you guys top off the water level on the Central Boiler

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i have a 6048 how do u guys top off the water and how far do u let it go below the fill line before u top it off? if i remember correct the guy that installed it filled it from the sidearm heat exchanger..
 
wood master

well i have a wood master. the way ours is set up is directly to the cold water in the house. on the cold water side of the house it passes threw a one way check valve. the water line then tees off to the out wood master and to the indoor boiler. the indoor boiler has a pressure reducing valve, set down to 20 psi. the other side of the tee going to the wood master has a ball valve so you can add water when you need to.
 
I use a washiing machine hose with female ends and leave it on my sidearm. All I need to do is open the 2 ball valves for a minute or two and it tops off the boiler water. In 3 years I have only had to top off a handful of times
(6048). You can also top off with a garden hose from the top of the boiler using a small ladder.
 
I use a washiing machine hose with female ends and leave it on my sidearm. All I need to do is open the 2 ball valves for a minute or two and it tops off the boiler water. In 3 years I have only had to top off a handful of times
(6048). You can also top off with a garden hose from the top of the boiler using a small ladder.

Only problem with that setup is, if you have a well and for any reason the boiler water backflows, then you've just contaminated your water supply :eek:. A simple check valve incorporated in the hose will prevent that.
 
I have always just put a hose in the top of the unit to top it off. I might have to do it in the fall and then I am good till the next year. I always go with if I can see the water in the little hole by the fill line then I am good if it goes below that I will top it off.
 
Only problem with that setup is, if you have a well and for any reason the boiler water backflows, then you've just contaminated your water supply :eek:. A simple check valve incorporated in the hose will prevent that.

It's funny that you bring this up. I replaced the O-ring on my 007 pump to the garage and added a little water when I was done. I also fill from my return line (in the house) and thought the same thing. In a free flow my 009 pump shows something like 24 PSI. This summer I plan on adding a back flow valve in to my drain line at the house. The water might never back up in to the well but one never knows.
 
THanks.. i filled it from the top vent cap..
 
Only problem with that setup is, if you have a well and for any reason the boiler water backflows, then you've just contaminated your water supply :eek:. A simple check valve incorporated in the hose will prevent that.

That is correct...I ran a water line to the boiler from the house...I imagined what it would be like trying to drag a hose out to fill the boiler during the dead of winter. Sure has come in handy.
 
well i have a wood master. the way ours is set up is directly to the cold water in the house. on the cold water side of the house it passes threw a one way check valve. the water line then tees off to the out wood master and to the indoor boiler. the indoor boiler has a pressure reducing valve, set down to 20 psi. the other side of the tee going to the wood master has a ball valve so you can add water when you need to.
I have mine hooked to the hot water supply.Was told not to hook to cold:confused:

:cheers:
 
I can understand that reasoning if you have a small residential gas/oil, or wood boiler that is low-mass cast iron (low water capacity), but I have never piped hot water into any boiler...dealer is thinking that there would be thermal shock from cold water. Most OWB's hold at least 100 gal. of water, shouldn't be an issue.

:dizzy::dizzy:
 
I don't loose enough water during the season to ever top it off. Be ware - if you let the water jacket cool to 100+ the level will look as though it is low, but once it heats back to 180 it will be over-full. If you are having to top off a CB then I am guessing you have a leak somewhere. You should find that leak before the accumulated damage becomes a serious problem.
 
I agree with gwiley...my CB doesn't loose any water. I had one small steaming issue when I first got it from me screwing up leaving it for a few days (my fault not the CB) and even that I only added a few gallons to the overflow and was done...I can't imagine taking the time to pipe up anything to fill a CB with how little water I loose.
 
I have to agree my CB has not lost water on its own. I have had a steam issue(my fault) and had to change a pump. Them are the only reasons I lost water. As I said earlier I just topped off through the spout on top .
 
Only problem with that setup is, if you have a well and for any reason the boiler water backflows, then you've just contaminated your water supply :eek:. A simple check valve incorporated in the hose will prevent that.


Not too worried about back flow as this line is only opened maybe 2 minutes per year. Fresh water coming out of hot water tank into boiler line is pressurized to 40-60 PSI. Boiler water would have to go back through hot water tank, 50 feet to UV light, through softener, pressure tank , then pump, then 50 more feet through one way foot valve at well water level.

Even if it did go that far back what would it be contaminated with ? What would make this boiler water so toxic ? - Just a thought.
 
well after filling it ,a few days went buy and i checked the water level and it squirted out the top of the tube for 10 min.. what happened? i filled it about 1/2 inch above the fill line..
 
well after filling it ,a few days went buy and i checked the water level and it squirted out the top of the tube for 10 min.. what happened? i filled it about 1/2 inch above the fill line..

Don't leave the check valve open on the tube - it will drain the water out of the top of the tank.

Water expands as it heats.
 
Not too worried about back flow as this line is only opened maybe 2 minutes per year. Fresh water coming out of hot water tank into boiler line is pressurized to 40-60 PSI. Boiler water would have to go back through hot water tank, 50 feet to UV light, through softener, pressure tank , then pump, then 50 more feet through one way foot valve at well water level.

Even if it did go that far back what would it be contaminated with ? What would make this boiler water so toxic ? - Just a thought.


Cuz...if you are using treatment chemicals, that can flow back into your domestic water system if you lose pressure.

Take a gander on Google, look up backflow prevention, see some case studies on how wells and water systems have become contaminated....
 
Hey folks - so I found this searching. I bought in May 2021 with a place with Brute Force (I think 5800) wood burning outdoor boiler. Worked great last year. This year, also keeping us toasty. However, this year, one of the blower fans gave out (and shortly after so did the solenoid). I have replacements on the way; however, the reason the motor went out (I think) was due to a short caused by the power cables running into the motor having the sheathing exposed, and the copper wire touching the metal door. This short caused the ETC to get bypassed, and the top blower stayed on. I didn't notice until my wife pointed out the "smoke" (it was steam) POURING out of the vent cap on the top. When I went out there, the water was rolling off the pitched roof of the boiler unit everywhere. Temp was at 220 F!!!!! Water was boiling over! I got it under control.

To my point--related to this thread: The vent cap has the float arm to indicate FULL, SAFE, and REFILL levels. I believe I'm still in the "safe" zone; however, I need to know how to fill this puppy up (especially at end of season, as I also have flush and water treatment on the way with the replacement parts).

I believe the previous owner has a set up where the ground well water (from the pressure tank in the house, of course) runs into a heat exchange plate, then into the water heater. In line with the water source is a T-connection that branches off into a hose bib valve, then a short washer hose (two female side) into another hose bib, and that then branches off into the heat exchange plate for the heated water that runs into the heat exchanges, back to the boiler, etc. etc.

Bottom line, I knew that the water in the boiler is "yuck" and the thought of opening both hose bibs at the same time mortifies me. I looked, and from my limited knowledge, I'm 99% sure there is no BFP (backflow preventer). So . . . can you look at this short video, and tell me what you would do to take that ground well water source and get it into the boiler water system for a refill?

https://www.dropbox.com/s/af4ig8m1zazem9z/2023-02-24%2008.59.11.mov?dl=0
 

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