MAC 10-10 good/bad?

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wdchuck

wdchuck

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I'll start by saying howdy, and thanks for an informative and lively site. Some facts on the following saws would be greatly appreciated, from the Sultans of Sawdust.:greenchainsaw: :cheers:

My pops dropped a Mac 10-10 in my lap a couple years back and would like to know the skinny on this little bugger.

Another saw coming is a Stihl 028, unknown age, designation but will take a bar and chain to try it out, another freebie from pops, that he received free.

Quest #3: When I first bought the 460 it wound up and had nice growl to it, but now just has more of screaming whine. The dealer offered some suggestions: check the spark arrest screen, there isn't one. , spark plug, changed it, no difference. , fuel is 87 octane with the stihl two-cycle oil. clean the air filter every fillup. Something else, sometimes, with only the saw wieght it bogs a bit, then have to let up and slow the feed rate. This saw doesn't seem to cut much better than the 360, and the extra weight gets old. (hence the poulon) What am I doing wrong? How do I get that wood-chewing growl back?

Thanks. Wdchuck

The rest of the arsenal is:
Poulon Wild Thing
Stihl MS360 (graveyard) used someone elses gas.:bang:
Stihl MS460 Mag, 20",24"
 
I don't know much about the 10-10 It sounds like your 460 is running lean, or it has an air leak, or bad rings. You may want to check the compression. Before that try changing the fuel filter, if that doesn't help try turning out the High speed screw on the carburetor about 1/4 of a turn, that should help.
 
The 10-10 hard mount powerful little saw...might vibrate your headache away. If you want to cut wood it will do it. I would not buy one off of ebay especially mine. :)

Fine as frogs hair thats what i'm talking about.
 
 
The 10-10 can be a nice running saw. I have a few and break them out every now and then. I would not want to use one all day. A couple of tanks of gas and I am usually ready for a more modern saw, such as a good running 028.:) Both saws run a 16" bar very well and can pull a 20" if needed. I prefer 3/8 on the Mac and .325 on the 028. All my 028 have 16" .325 setups and most the 10-10s have 18" 3/8 setups.

Your other saw sounds lean and probably should not be used until you know why and can fix the issues. Try backing out the high needle on the carb and see if you get and hold the proper sound. Make sure the carb nuts are tight. Check the fuel filter and fuel lines. Check the tank vent. Make sure the cylinder screws are tight. Check the impulse hose. Good luck, I hope it goes smoothly.
 
Hey wdchuck That 028 you have should make for a nice saw. I have an older 028(no chainbreak) that runs like brand new. Usually starts on the first or second pull and chews wood like crazy. Now i know its not a 460,441 or even a 361 but for this saws size and age it gets the job done. good luck.
 
Thanks for the feedback on the saws guys, I'll have to get the 460 running right quick, currently working on a 36" x 26' oak, and am down to the last 6' that I was planning to rip cut then put in wedges to split it to quarters to get the pieces out of the woods for woodworking.

Would rips like this with the lean sounding mix cause scoring or galling on the piston/cylinder wall?

Would you expect this from a one year old saw, only about 10 cords of hardwood on the meter so far.
 
My 10-10 cuts very fast for it's size, is reliable and pulls a 20" bar with 3/8 full chisel no prob. I got it from my local shop when someone traded it in, and have been suprised and pleased. Also mine is an early hard mount model.:greenchainsaw:
 
Well I futzed with the 460 for a bit, took out the book for the H and L settings and played with that a little, turned the screws until something changed for the worse then rotated them back to what the book said. I have a screen filter on my fuel can, and the fuel filter in the tank appeared OK, even tried a couple of rev's with the air filter off, no distinctive changes either way.

Are there other adjustments for it to run richer? OR just the H L screws that are accessed through the cover?

If I can figure out how, maybe a short video cutting a log would help, then your ears can tell me if I'm off my rocker or not.

Regarding the MAC 10-10;

, hardmount means that there is no AV bushings??

Any way for me to mount a hand guard on the MAC?

The saw is a great little woodeater, plenty of spunk, but I'd like to have the sense of security of some hand protection. I spoke briefly with an arborist that had peculiar looking scars on four fingers, from a saw with no chainbrake or guard, the scars were 20years old and he is still climbing.
 
You must have a very early 10-10 if it dosent have a chain brake,you should be able to check around for a newer parts saw and take the brake off and put it on your saw. We have a newer model of that saw at work, the pro mac 10-10 it is a pretty powerful little saw and I have a friend who has one and likes it other than a little heavy for the size and is loud. At work we still use alot of macs because there was a dealer in the area ,over all they are tough and pretty powerful saws. So if you can find parts they are cheap power. One last thing about the chainbrake if you have a very very early one that has the recoil starter on the clutch side than chain brake could be a problem.
 
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A thought. You say someone dropped this saw in your lap. Pour out the gas and put brand new mix before you tweak anything. Mix is important on a two cycle and old gas won't get along with tuning.

I've always adjusted my two cycles on idle by turning the screw in until it slows, then back it off 1/2 or so turn. I set the high speed open until goosing the throttle doesn't produce any bog and loading doesn't bog either. Rich is better than lean if you error. Lean will burn the motor up.
 

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