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wally293

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last year I put down some pesticides by my maple tree needless to say it did effect my tree. One year later i thought the pesticides ran thier course but this year some leaves did devlope on the tree then turned brown early summer and fell off. So here it is now Nov. 8 2002 almost 2 years later since I did this to my tree and now i notice that the bark is starting to split and come off the tree. Can I assume that I killed this tree and start thinking about getting rid of it and plant a new one. Very sadden by the fact that I was dumb enought to do this. I do beleive the tree is not alive anymore...any suggestions???
 
You do describe a dead tree; bark loss implies no vascular tissue.

I hear it several times a year "i used "glyphosate" on the suckers on the base of my tree, now the leaves are falling off. Did I hurt it?"

Glyphosate is intended to translocate from leaf to root and kill the roots. This is true with many "total vegitation killers".

after this amount of time there is no product left in the soil, so your plan to replace is sound.

Though planting a little ways away form where the majority of roots of the old tree are would be best. The decomposition of the old tree "robs the soil in the immidiate area of nitrogen, wich stresses the new tree.
 
MAPLE WITH PESTICIDE AROUND

Hi,

Did not notice which pesticide.

Round-up for example, is usually foliar for absorbtion, but can penetrate thin bark, and possible on the "bark" area of a root.

Round-up is practically neutralized by soil. Garden labels allow planting vegetables etc. within a matter of days. It may as well be considered non-residual in soil.

In fact, wash dust of leaves of weeds before spraying Round-up - it is affected that severely by "dirty" material.

Round-up has no mechanism to get out of a plant.

Also, spraying a few sprouts on a large tree would be very unlikely to kill a large tree, although its good to get none into any wanted tree.

If you used a lawn weed killer, those have 3 main chemicals. 2 are especially foliar - 2,4-D & MCPP. The 3rd, Dicamba, is the naughty one that can move in soil with water, and is fairly residual.

If this was the case, a couple of years should have brought safety if you did not get radical with the dicamba.

Contact an agricultural supplier in your area that carries ACTIVATED CHARCOAL and ask them how to incorporate it. Country Club superintentents should be very familiar with it. If you have trouble finding a supplier, call a couple of the top golf courses and ask the superintendents where to get the product.

I recommended it once to a lady that fertilized her lawn and her neighbor's lawn for a favor - only problem is she accidentally used Casoron ( also sold as NOROSAC - Casoron backwards ).

If Casoron was your pesticide, it lingers for about 1 and 1/2 years.
It attacks areas of cell division - tops and tips of roots. Its bad to use around new plants because the backfill is often porous, and it can leach in, thus killing cell division at the end of the root tips.

Casoron does have a low water solubility though, so in fairly firm and settled soil, it will be on the top inch. If Casoron was your chemical, scrape away the top 1/2 inch of soil and get rid of it somewhere - make sure not to backfill around a new tree.

Also, consider contacting a Pesticides Class instructor of a local college.

Not sure if this was of help. I used to have an Oregon Pesticide Consultants License, but am not current on a few other chemicals that you may have used. But am certain about what I shared on the few above.

Mario Vaden
Landscape Designer / Arborist
M. D. Vaden Trees & Landscapes
Beaverton, Oregon:blob2:
 
i heard too if you apply Roundup above 90 degrees or a very humid day, it will vaporize and kill the tree:(
 
Can we say P-E-S-T-I-C-I-D-E?? That is not HERBICIDE.

Unless 2-4D and roundup are for fire ants.;)
 

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