MS 361: replace crankshaft and topend, or try this...

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John Mac

John Mac

ArboristSite Lurker
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Mar 12, 2016
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7
Location
Kentucky
So I have a 7 year old MS 361 with blown bearing cage. The little pieces of metal that got loose also wrecked the top end.

Seems I could fix this by splitting the case, replacing the crank and top end, and might as well replace the crank bearings while I'm at it. And buy a crank splitting tool for $80 that I doubt I'd ever use again. Total parts/tools would probably be in the $250 range, and take several hours for me to do the work (never done this before).

Anybody have any experience with buying an entire assembled crankcase/topend package like this:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/STIHL-MS361...742209?hash=item5b0e5911c1:g:mFYAAMXQVD1SKKBf

Seems like a heck of a deal, all in for $125 or so, if it actually works and holds up. It is made in China, so I'm somewhat leery.

Any thoughts?
 
Big_Wood

Big_Wood

westcoast dweller
Joined
Dec 11, 2012
Messages
7,335
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Canuckistan
i've used them but not for the 361 specifically. never heard of any hard hours on them besides some of their cranks put in OEM saws. make sure case and jug bolts are tightened properly and that the seals aren't installed cockeyed. i've used 2 for other people. first one would have been fine but the case bolts weren't as tight as i like them to be. second one was the same on the case bolts and the flywheel side seal installed all wacky. had to pull and reinstall another one. another thing to note is that top end is likely chrome lined
 
lone wolf
Joined
Oct 5, 2009
Messages
71,971
Location
Prowling The Pine Barrens
So I have a 7 year old MS 361 with blown bearing cage. The little pieces of metal that got loose also wrecked the top end.

Seems I could fix this by splitting the case, replacing the crank and top end, and might as well replace the crank bearings while I'm at it. And buy a crank splitting tool for $80 that I doubt I'd ever use again. Total parts/tools would probably be in the $250 range, and take several hours for me to do the work (never done this before).

Anybody have any experience with buying an entire assembled crankcase/topend package like this:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/STIHL-MS361...742209?hash=item5b0e5911c1:g:mFYAAMXQVD1SKKBf

Seems like a heck of a deal, all in for $125 or so, if it actually works and holds up. It is made in China, so I'm somewhat leery.

Any thoughts?
Yes China.;)
 
Chris_In_VT

Chris_In_VT

Brrraaaaap!
Joined
May 3, 2014
Messages
724
Location
Vermont
You can save yourself 80 bucks and not buy the tool. Heat the bearing pockets really well and use a soft type hammer (brass, wood etc) to tap the crank ends, it'll come apart.
If you're positive the crank is junk, forgoe the soft hammer and beat the crap out of it!
Be sure you got all the case bolts out and the case totally stripped down too.

Just an idea. You don't need fancy tools to do this type of repair, you can get by with some ingenuity. Especially like you said, you may only do it once.
 
John Mac

John Mac

ArboristSite Lurker
Joined
Mar 12, 2016
Messages
7
Location
Kentucky
Thanks all for the ideas...the crankshaft is definitely shot, so I might give hammering on the crank a try to separate the crank case halves, seeing I'd be replacing the crankshaft and the bearings in any event.

As far as the Chinese parts go, it unfortunately seems very hard to make the math work on repair vs. replace using OEM engine parts, looking at the OEM parts pricing. Where are the Stihl OEM engine parts made, anyway?
 
cuinrearview

cuinrearview

Red saw lover
Joined
Oct 24, 2014
Messages
10,212
Location
Hillsdale, MI
Considering that you should have essentially a brand new saw mechanically when finished $250 is cheap. Head down to your local dealer and price out an ms362 or 562xp. Add to the knowledge you'll have about the equipment you're running and it seems like a win all the way around. Absolutely no reason to believe that with proper re-assembly using quality parts you won't get another seven years or more out of the saw.
 
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