My MS 310 muffler mod, a few ?'s

[hammerhead 5410]

I'll start by saying what a site!! Been reading for a few months now and was lured into the whole muffler mod deal.

I'm am in no way a gearhead, so bear with me here. I am a carpenter, hunter, fisherman and OWB owner, who likes to cut and split wood in his free time. I cut about 10 to 12 cords a year.

So, that said, I been reading up on the muff mods, found a few for my model and settled on one that was done by a member here using 3/4"ish tube stock. Looked real tough (cool)!!

I bored a 7/8" hole in the top, bar side, and reamed it a bit oblong to accept a piece of tube with a 7/8 od and 5/8 id angled up and out. After a thorough cleaning, I reinstalled the muffler, prior to welding on the tube, and ran it. The difference was nite and day. Although I didn't touch any wood with it, I could hear the power. Once the tube was welded on, the sound wasn't the same, I assumed it due to the over sized 7/8" hole necked down to a true 5/8". So, I drilled a 5/16" hole in the deflector and down into the muffler. Deburred, recleaned, and reinstalled. Again ran the saw, without much change back to the sound of the original test run.

Question 1: Did the harmonics change due to installation of the tube or am I not opened up enough.

I got the H limiter cap out, but managed to crack it, I didn't bother with the L, as it runs good at idle at the present setting. I trimmed it and reinstalled it.

Question 2: Do I need to immediately replace this cap?

I cleaned the plug, warmed the motor, brought it up to WOT and back the H out til she began to garble, I say 3/8 to 7/16 of a turn and stopped there. I then went to the pile and took her to a 30" piece of ash. More power for sure, but I wonder if I am getting all the power?

Now for questions 3 and 4: I cut about a cord and a half and checked the plug 4 times during that span and cannot see much of any color on the plug, just as clean as I put it in, it seems. How long til I can see a sign on the plug that I am running rich, right or lean?

At WOT in the wood she would cut out periodically, not die, just miss. This is not something the saw did prior to the mod. This saw has only 30 or so cords under its belt. What could this be?

And finally, I am in the market for a new chain and am all about speed, what do you all suggest. I am currently running safety chain same as that came stock.


Thanks guys!!


Mike

 

[ShoerFast]

I'll start by saying what a site!! Been reading for a few months now and was lured into the whole muffler mod deal.

I'm am in no way a gearhead, so bear with me here. I am a carpenter, hunter, fisherman and OWB owner, who likes to cut and split wood in his free time. I cut about 10 to 12 cords a year.

So, that said, I been reading up on the muff mods, found a few for my model and settled on one that was done by a member here using 3/4"ish tube stock. Looked real tough (cool)!!

I bored a 7/8" hole in the top, bar side, and reamed it a bit oblong to accept a piece of tube with a 7/8 od and 5/8 id angled up and out. After a thorough cleaning, I reinstalled the muffler, prior to welding on the tube, and ran it. The difference was nite and day. Although I didn't touch any wood with it, I could hear the power. Once the tube was welded on, the sound wasn't the same, I assumed it due to the over sized 7/8" hole necked down to a true 5/8". So, I drilled a 5/16" hole in the deflector and down into the muffler. Deburred, recleaned, and reinstalled. Again ran the saw, without much change back to the sound of the original test run.

Question 1: Did the harmonics change due to installation of the tube or am I not opened up enough.

I got the H limiter cap out, but managed to crack it, I didn't bother with the L, as it runs good at idle at the present setting. I trimmed it and reinstalled it.

Question 2: Do I need to immediately replace this cap?

I cleaned the plug, warmed the motor, brought it up to WOT and back the H out til she began to garble, I say 3/8 to 7/16 of a turn and stopped there. I then went to the pile and took her to a 30" piece of ash. More power for sure, but I wonder if I am getting all the power?

Now for questions 3 and 4: I cut about a cord and a half and checked the plug 4 times during that span and cannot see much of any color on the plug, just as clean as I put it in, it seems. How long til I can see a sign on the plug that I am running rich, right or lean?

At WOT in the wood she would cut out periodically, not die, just miss. This is not something the saw did prior to the mod. This saw has only 30 or so cords under its belt. What could this be?

And finally, I am in the market for a new chain and am all about speed, what do you all suggest. I am currently running safety chain same as that came stock.


Thanks guys!!


Mike

Welcome to the site!

#1: Muff-modding puts flow back that he EPA took out, Flow = Power .

More flow requires more fuel, adjust it richer (out or CCW) , the cap is needed to keep the screw from self-turning.

#2: If your tune has changed, it is already to late, get a cap, a hassle yes, but there $0.50 cents.

Your best power will sound fat/rich out of he wood, but clears up in the wood, do a few timed cuts at differant settings and you will find the sweet-spot.

#3 & 4: Rich is a dark color, lean is scary pale or even a glaze look, a even tan is what your looking for.

If your ever in doubt, fat/rich is the safest, 'Better a plug, then a Jug!'

No way for me to say what the cutting out could be, but Gary should be along shortly to make sure your running the right oil and best ratio! ( inside joke, you may have cought it? )

RSC is a good chain, Round filed Chisel Comfort , or RS (old style round chisel chain) if you feel ready, it sounds like you would like the speed.

 

[breymeyerfam]

question 2: you should relace the cap, because there is no spring keeping the needle from turning, that is now the second function of the cap.

as for tuning, if the plug is white=lean, dark brown to black=rich
nice tan or carmel color is ideal

as for tuning by ear, check this link out http://madsens1.com/saw%20carb%20tune.htm

 

[aandabooks]

When I pulled the caps off my 310, I managed to break one. Been running it for the past couple of months with no problems. This discussion got me thinking that I really should replace them. I checked ebay for caps but no luck. Is this something I'm going to have to go to my dealer for? I'm also 3 days from being out of warranty, so a muffler mod is right around the corner.

 

[breymeyerfam]

When I pulled the caps off my 310, I managed to break one. Been running it for the past couple of months with no problems. This discussion got me thinking that I really should replace them. I checked ebay for caps but no luck. Is this something I'm going to have to go to my dealer for? I'm also 3 days from being out of warranty, so a muffler mod is right around the corner.

.50-1.00 part, yes its a dealer item but they should have plenty in stock

 

[XJWoody]

Definitely reset your mixture screws and replace the limiter caps. Trim the little tabs off the sides before you install.

FWIW my 460 lost tune about instantly w/o the caps in there. Took a second to figure out what was up, but I thankful I didn't go to cutting.

I think you would like RSC or RMC chain much better than the OEM safety chain.

 

[woodyman]

Welcome to the site!

#1: Muff-modding puts flow back that he EPA took out, Flow = Power .

More flow requires more fuel, adjust it richer (out or CCW) , the cap is needed to keep the screw from self-turning.

#2: If your tune has changed, it is already to late, get a cap, a hassle yes, but there $0.50 cents.

Your best power will sound fat/rich out of he wood, but clears up in the wood, do a few timed cuts at differant settings and you will find the sweet-spot.

#3 & 4: Rich is a dark color, lean is scary pale or even a glaze look, a even tan is what your looking for.

If your ever in doubt, fat/rich is the safest, 'Better a plug, then a Jug!'

No way for me to say what the cutting out could be, but Gary should be along shortly to make sure your running the right oil and best ratio! ( inside joke, you may have cought it? )

RSC is a good chain, Round filed Chisel Comfort , or RS (old style round chisel chain) if you feel ready, it sounds like you would like the speed.

+1,Where are the pics.Did it look like this one Gremlin did for me?

 

[hammerhead 5410]

I gotta figure out how to post pics, but yes, your muffler mod is the one I copied to do mine, very nice. I still have to grind down my weld to clean it up and I still have to paint it. All I had was some heavy wall black pipe, 7/8 od-5/8 id, so I drilled a 5/16 hole thru the deflector and into the muffler, to open it up more.

 

[hammerhead 5410]

Brey,

That is a good link, I belive I got my saw set rite, listening to that, but will recheck it tomorrow. Thanks much!!

Would I be best off to start with a new plug to check the color?

 

[breymeyerfam]

use a new plug. it makes it easier

 

[ms310]

chain

If you are looking for speed in your cutting chain try some skip tooth, i loved that stuff on my 310, and like the others said get rid of the saftey (green label chain)

 

[hammerhead 5410]

10-4, I just ordered 3 loops of woodlandpro rc, at 10.95, what the heck. Any of you guys like this stuff?

Where can I find a loop of skip tooth and what model should I get. I'm running a 20" x 3/8 x .050 x 72 Rollamatic E bar.

 

[ms310]

I just go to my stihl dealer and tell him and he makes me up a loop, i am sure that the guy on here have the specifics but, i tell him the same 3/8 50 72 dl and he hooks me up. When that e bar wears out do yourself a favor and get an es they are much better bars