New to CSM

[redoak]

Hi All. I've been reading this forum for about 6 months now, so I now know just enough to really get in deep trouble. I've had some experience working with bandsaw mills, but I want to work at my pace and you can't do that when your paying someone else. These CSM's look like just the thing.

My project is pretty ambitious. I've got 50 acres of forest in central NH and plan to carve a farm out of it. First on the list is 20x20 P&B barn. I figure a CSM looks like just the thing to turn round logs into square timbers.

Couple questions:

1. Sounds like a big saw is in order, my 029 is great for felling, but not enough for milling. How about a 660? From what I've read I think a 36" Alaskan mill is about the right size, I don't see that I'll need anything wider. Is this a reasonable set up for up to 24" soft woods (white pine)?

2. How do you guys mill longer logs? I'm going to need some 20' 8x8 beams and plates. Have any of you put together slabbing rails at that length? How did you do it?

3. How about milling smaller logs (say 8-12")? Do you set up some kind of jig with the rails and manuver the log under it? Just wondered if these smaller logs can me worked up effectively using a CSM.

4. How srongly do you recommend an edger for making the 90 degree cut off the first slice? Seems that might be a good idea.

Thanks for whatever advice you can offer!

Here's a couple of pic's of what I'm up to:

View attachment 46079

View attachment 46080

 

[59Billy]

3. How about milling smaller logs (say 8-12")? Do you set up some kind of jig with the rails and manuver the log under it? Just wondered if these smaller logs can me worked up effectively using a CSM.

Here's one approach that I think is pretty cool:

http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=39953

 

[oldsaw]

You will have your work cut out for you. But, you said that you wanted to go at your own pace.

The 066/660 is a great milling saw. I've milled several hundred board feet with one, and have no complaints until the trees got to the 30"+ hardwoods where it did the job, but didn't like it. For "normal" sized stuff, it's hard to beat.

You will have to get creative on the really long rails, but it can be done. Everything I mill for myself is just shy of 8' to fit in the spot in the garage I have.

I'm usually under a bit of time pressure when I'm out, so I edge the boards when I get home using a guide and a Skilsaw. A lot of guys use a Beam Machine, but since I 've got the Alaskan, I just roll the log 90 degrees and set my board at 90 degrees to the original cut using a rafter square.

I'm a big CSM fan. As a suburban logger/miller I don't have a place to park a bandmill, and don't use enough wood to justify one. I was after cheap wood, and have been fairly successful in finding it. I have a friend who seems to find the big logs, which led to the 3120.

Mark

 

[CaseyForrest]

Hi All. I've been reading this forum for about 6 months now, so I now know just enough to really get in deep trouble. I've had some experience working with bandsaw mills, but I want to work at my pace and you can't do that when your paying someone else. These CSM's look like just the thing.

My project is pretty ambitious. I've got 50 acres of forest in central NH and plan to carve a farm out of it. First on the list is 20x20 P&B barn. I figure a CSM looks like just the thing to turn round logs into square timbers.

Couple questions:

1. Sounds like a big saw is in order, my 029 is great for felling, but not enough for milling. How about a 660? From what I've read I think a 36" Alaskan mill is about the right size, I don't see that I'll need anything wider. Is this a reasonable set up for up to 24" soft woods (white pine)?

2. How do you guys mill longer logs? I'm going to need some 20' 8x8 beams and plates. Have any of you put together slabbing rails at that length? How did you do it?

3. How about milling smaller logs (say 8-12")? Do you set up some kind of jig with the rails and manuver the log under it? Just wondered if these smaller logs can me worked up effectively using a CSM.

4. How srongly do you recommend an edger for making the 90 degree cut off the first slice? Seems that might be a good idea.

Thanks for whatever advice you can offer!

Here's a couple of pic's of what I'm up to:

View attachment 46079

View attachment 46080

Welcome...

The 660 is one of the best saws on the market today, IMHO. If you dont mind the inboard clutch on the Husky, the 395 is just as capable. If all you are going to be doing is White Pine, Im sure you could get the job done with a 650, or even a 460. I know my 660 with a 28" bar taking a 22" cut in yellow pine is like a hot knife through butter.

As for milling longer logs, Hautions (btw, where is that rascal?) has my Will Mahloff book right now. Ill try to explain his set-up as best I can. What youll need is a 2x10, either 8' or 6' long, a handfull or two of lag bolts, and a string to be used to level the lags. Use the lag bolts to set your 2x, whatever you decide to get, onto. Use the string to make sure they are all at the same height and progress your 2x as you mill the log. Its a very inexpensive, and simple way you make the first cut in any length log you want.

You can use a beam machine to edge your cants after you take the first or second slab off.

 

[redoak]

Casey,

Excellent idea for milling longer logs, just the kind of advice I was hoping for from this forum. Thanks! Any thoughts for milling the smaller 8-12" diameter logs? Seems they might wander a bit and hard to keep the slabbing rail attached?

-p

 

[redoak]

You will have your work cut out for you. But, you said that you wanted to go at your own pace.

The 066/660 is a great milling saw. I've milled several hundred board feet with one, and have no complaints until the trees got to the 30"+ hardwoods where it did the job, but didn't like it. For "normal" sized stuff, it's hard to beat.


Mark

Thanks for the advice oldsaw. You are right about the work, but the way home prices are around here I'd have to work three jobs to make a mortgage payment, I'd rather spend my time in the woods!

I think I'll get the 660.

 

[CaseyForrest]

Casey,

Excellent idea for milling longer logs, just the kind of advice I was hoping for from this forum. Thanks! Any thoughts for milling the smaller 8-12" diameter logs? Seems they might wander a bit and hard to keep the slabbing rail attached?

-p

Check out the link that Billy posted. Gary spent some time making that stand in that link.

 

[redoak]

Here's one approach that I think is pretty cool:

http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=39953

Thanks for the link to this thread. I had something like that in mind, though not nearly as well designed! Once all this snow melts I think I'll try to make something like it using some large butt ends I've got laying around. The trick seems to be getting the rail parallel and stable to the table. Nice looking set up on that thread.

 

[BobL]

Casey,

Excellent idea for milling longer logs, just the kind of advice I was hoping for from this forum. Thanks! Any thoughts for milling the smaller 8-12" diameter logs? Seems they might wander a bit and hard to keep the slabbing rail attached?

-p

Redoak, I am half way through building a rig to do exactly this. In principle it's similar to the rig in the link by 59Billy but my rig is made from steel and will fully collapse to fit inside a station wagon. I'm using smallish C-section pieces of galavanized steel for the vertical part of the frame which means it's height adjustment is infinitely variable.

I am very busy in my day job at the moment and won't have time to work on it for a week or so. Will post here when I have something worth showing.

Cheers

 

[TedChristiansen]

The homemade milling bench certainly is the right price and looks like it would work well.

Another option - though more expensive - might be the Logosol M7 (www.logosol.com) [not affilliated, just a satisfied customer].

Ted