pioneer farmsaw decomp valve

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Nickh0902

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Hi guys, I have a pioneer farmsaw that the decomp valve isn't working on. The valve will not hold compression and leaks when it should be in the closed position. Its been run through the ultrasonic cleaner and has no visible carbon. My question is can I use the pioneer 473524 decomp valve meant for the p28-p20 saws? It looks almost identical and I am not finding the farmsaw decomp valve anywhere. I know that plugging the hole is not an option because it will destroy the starter.
 
Hi guys, I have a pioneer farmsaw that the decomp valve isn't working on. The valve will not hold compression and leaks when it should be in the closed position. Its been run through the ultrasonic cleaner and has no visible carbon. My question is can I use the pioneer 473524 decomp valve meant for the p28-p20 saws? It looks almost identical and I am not finding the farmsaw decomp valve anywhere. I know that plugging the hole is not an option because it will destroy the starter.
I was doing a little searching on here and found someone that said they used a blue top decomp valve off a husky. I believe that should be for the husky 55/350 saws. I just ordered one and I should be able to build it up to the length of the factory valve and add a washer or something at the end for the decomp lever to contact . In theory this should work?
 
I was doing a little searching on here and found someone that said they used a blue top decomp valve off a husky. I believe that should be for the husky 55/350 saws. I just ordered one and I should be able to build it up to the length of the factory valve and add a washer or something at the end for the decomp lever to contact . In theory this should work?
I guess you could also just ditch the decomp lever/rod and build the decomp valve up long enough to reach the starter cover and add a hole and depress it manually before starting the saw. man I love these pioneers, but they really over complicated the setup on these farm saws for sure.
 
I guess you could also just ditch the decomp lever/rod and build the decomp valve up long enough to reach the starter cover and add a hole and depress it manually before starting the saw. man I love these pioneers, but they really over complicated the setup on these farm saws for sure.
I haven´t seen a farmsaw up close, but I think it's the same setup as the P28/P26 -- ingenious and aweful all at once.
 
I haven´t seen a farmsaw up close, but I think it's the same setup as the P28/P26 -- ingenious and aweful all at once.
Yeah I am able to find the decomp for the p28, but I’m not sure if it will work on the farm saw. Totally agree with you awfully ingenious.
 
If it's helpful to you, I've got a P26 out on my bench right now and the decomp valve is the same as P28. The dimensions are these:
  • base fitting is 0.85 inches long, 0.496 diameter
  • threaded section is 3/8 - 24tpi (about 0.37 diameter)
  • overall length is 1.43 inches
  • circular disc on the button is 0.748 inches
If those match what you've got on the farmsaw then the P28 decomp should work.
 

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If it's helpful to you, I've got a P26 out on my bench right now and the decomp valve is the same as P28. The dimensions are these:
  • base fitting is 0.85 inches long, 0.496 diameter
  • threaded section is 3/8 - 24tpi (about 0.37 diameter)
  • overall length is 1.43 inches
  • circular disc on the button is 0.748 inches
If those match what you've got on the farmsaw then the P28 decomp should work.

If it's helpful to you, I've got a P26 out on my bench right now and the decomp valve is the same as P28. The dimensions are these:
  • base fitting is 0.85 inches long, 0.496 diameter
  • threaded section is 3/8 - 24tpi (about 0.37 diameter)
  • overall length is 1.43 inches
  • circular disc on the button is 0.748 inches
If those match what you've got on the farmsaw then the P28 decomp should work.
Great thank you. I will measure mine tomorrow afternoon when I get home from work.
 
Hi guys, I have a pioneer farmsaw that the decomp valve isn't working on. The valve will not hold compression and leaks when it should be in the closed position. Its been run through the ultrasonic cleaner and has no visible carbon. My question is can I use the pioneer 473524 decomp valve meant for the p28-p20 saws? It looks almost identical and I am not finding the farmsaw decomp valve anywhere. I know that plugging the hole is not an option because it will destroy the starter.
Nick, A suggestion, Unless you found a way to hold the valve partially open while cleaning ultrasonically, it probably did not get clean. Solution did not get to the closed surfaces which are probably the ones causing a bad seal.
Try a tiny "C" clamp to compress (open) the valve very slightly and clean again.
Myself, I prefer "Carburetor Cleaner" which is designed to eat carbon. I buy it by the gallon can. Most come with a soak basket. NAPA, AutoZone, etc. all carry it by the gallon. Good luck.
OT
 
Nick, A suggestion, Unless you found a way to hold the valve partially open while cleaning ultrasonically, it probably did not get clean. Solution did not get to the closed surfaces which are probably the ones causing a bad seal.
Try a tiny "C" clamp to compress (open) the valve very slightly and clean again.
Myself, I prefer "Carburetor Cleaner" which is designed to eat carbon. I buy it by the gallon can. Most come with a soak basket. NAPA, AutoZone, etc. all carry it by the gallon. Good luck.
OT
Thanks for the suggestion I appreciate it. I was thinking something was wrong with the valve because when I pull it all the way closed I can blow air through it and it isn't sealing. when I push the shaft back toward where the piston and cylinder are it will seal at a point before the valve pultrudes out past the threads. Its like it doesn't stop at the correct point when its closing? If that makes sense, I will try clamping it open and cleaning it again. I ran it in clean gas in the ultrasonic cleaner the first time.
 

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