Plum Trees

[scargull]

Please help! Each year for the last two years, my two mature and cross-polinating plum trees bloom beautifully and develop hundreds of tiny green plums. Within a month
and a half, the tiny plums have all fallen on the ground
save one or two, which never fully mature. There is no
evidence of disease or pest. We do have a sort of wind
tunnel in that area, but the fruit still forms, then all
falls. We are in the l200 foot elevation level of Western
Washington State. Other plum trees in this region do well.
Is there anything I can do to keep those plums on the trees?
Thanks

 

[Ken Lightcap]

Maybe you should ask on the commercial tree care forum.
I don't know the answer to this one.

 

[Darin]

Dont worry about posting anywhere else. Most of the commercial guys read these posts also. Ive been trying to read up on situations like this (strange). It might be one of those you have to go to the site to figure out. Unless someone else has encountered this. I will continue to search around for this reason.
Darin

 

[Ray Morneau]

Hi, Scargull --

My first reaction was: expect water stress.

Hey, that's the easy answer. Figuring out the details is your difficut task.

I tried my Go Express search engine. Although it found 15 hits, they are weak -- like:
http://www.flaglercounty.org/extension/may99.htm
and
http://cahe.nmsu.edu/pubs/yard/1998/

There is generally a lot of info out there. But not for this your specifics.

You sound like you have a fair ken for the scope of the issue you are dealing with. I would expect this will take a bit more long-term observation and/or in-depth observation on your part. (And that can be a problem as you don't want to lose another year's crop!) First, make sure they are not short of water. A windswept garden can have the water wicked out of it ... mulch! Mulch! MULCH! would be my immediate reaction. (But, of course, you've probably done that.) Then, monitor moisture content with as objective a tool as available (potentiometer, moisture meter on a probe, or at least a core sampler). Next, I'd try to figure the difference between my site and the surrounding ones successfully holding their crop -- don't overlook the value in asking those neighbors who are successfully bringing in their cherries -- there's always the chance to learn and then come back and tell us here any insights.

Looking forward to your updating us! Good luck with your project! (Do you still have a chance for a 2001 crop?)

Ray Morneau
[email protected]

 

[scargull]

Thank you all for your aid and advice. I don't believe it is a water problem, as we live in the foothills of the Cascade Mountains, where we have webbed feet. I have noticed that many of the trees that prosper are in a grassy
base, whereas my trees are simply in a rich soil with a
lot of sand.
There is still time for this years crop, because my
trees are just now bursting into bloom. I have heard of a
product called "Stop Drop". Is anyone familiar with it? I
come from the "Apple Capital", Wenatchee, WA, and the orchardists there sometimes use it. I think I will try to
contact someone at the treefruit center there.
Please continue to send advice, if you think of anything. Your help is much appreciated.

Sandra (Scargull)

 

[Ray Morneau]

Sandra -
Good start. To solve this you will need to follow through like a scientist -- solid observations, thorough analysis. You have a good background with your "roots" in Wenatchee apple country! good climate (if not too cool) as you're now in the Cascade foothills! Don't stop with the observation of grass -- what is the soil at those other loci? (Probably sand like yours, but I have to ask the question.) (I also note that grass is a more competition than wood chip mulch would be.)

Sorry I don't have answers, just other questions. But you're on the right track as you started the questioning.

By the bye, I've found nothing on StopDrop yet. Sounds like a possible help. Read & follow the label!

Good Luck.
[email protected]

 

[frieda]

Hey,
I did some looking, and "stop drop" is a product used mainly by apple orchardists, it contains NAA ( napthelin acidic acid) a synthetic auxin (plant hormone responsible for fruit drop among other things). It recomends applying it at least 14 days before harvest, or at the first fruit drop. It will take 2-3 days to take affect, and the affect will last for two weeks. It dose not strengthen the stem of the fruit, but it will prevent it from further deterierating. So, perhaps it is not too late to keep your harvest this year!

 

[scargull]

Thanks Frieda, for the help.

My plum tree is absolutely loaded right now, so if I had
an icon for a smiley-face holding it's breath, it would be
here. I got to thinking about some other advice I got,
and I always just assumed that with all our rain, the
tree was getting plenty of moisture. However, there is
a very slight incline, and a couple of tree roots are
partially exposed. It only makes sense that the fruit
would need A LOT of water, so I am giving it scads of
extra water. This is the first year that my pollinator
tree has tiny plums, so I am watching it carefully, as
well. I am going to get some stop-drop, too, but it
sure sounds as if that could get quite expensive if it
only works two weeks. I will keep you all informed.
Thanks so much for the help!

S. Gull