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This past fall I had an arborist come out and assess the condition of the large (24"+ dbh) oaks on my property. I live in a nearly urban historic area where lots are small and our older trees are a major asset. One of the things that the arborist offered as a suggestion was for me to immediately remove or relocate my firewood stacks, as they are immediately adjacent to a large red oak and within 15-25' of a massive white oak that is struggling already owing to possible chestnut borer problems + extremely tight growing conditions (between house, neighbor's driveway and garage, my garage, etc.). What he did not offer was any good suggestion on how best to minimize the impact of storing stuff adjacent to these trees if removal/relocation of the stuff was not possible.

I do not think that there is any other place where I can store my firewood, so total elimination of the wood pile is a non-option. However, I would like to minimize its impact as much as possible.

The attached picture shows the state of the woodpile as of the mid-summer. I have since added another couple cords behind the chainlink fence immediately behind the tree. That wood is on a mix of plastic and wood pallets, as well as 2x4s elevated 10" off the ground on concrete blocks. The area behind the fence is pea gravel over soil, and is where the dogs do their magic. The area in front of the fence is a mix of grass and gardens. I am considering Round-Uping the some of the grass in front of the fence, mulching and planting a few ornamental plants, and maybe putting a small bench there.

My soil is fairly heavy and clay-rich, and stays wet through the spring before turning to a mudbrick in the summer; I do not routinely water my yard, owing to the very low water pressure that we have in the old neighborhoods in town. I have been core aerating the yard once per year, topdressing with compost a couple times per year, and mulching all my leaves and grass. The area beneath my woodpile as it presently is tends to stay moist throughout the year, and has a much higher number of earthworms than the other parts of the yard. I am going to start working on assessing and improving the fungal and bacterial state of the soil this year, will be installing a water filter on my hose line, and will be discontinuing the use of chemical fertilizer.

I am thinking about redoing my entire wood system using this system in the spring, so there will be 8-10" of elevation for the piles, which would allow improved airflow for the wood, for the soil, and would allow the neighbor cats to get under the pile to police for mice.

With that background, I am looking for suggestions on how best to keep the wood more or less where it is, but to do so in a fashion that minimizes any harm to the trees growing in the immediate vicinity. Thoughts?

Rounds.jpg
 
From what you say, and the pictures, most trees wish they had it so good.
What problem did the arborist see with having the wood there?
I suppose there is compaction associated with moving and accessing the wood, but the aeration and compost should help counter that. I can almost imagine the wood piles as a large fallen tree in the forest.
 
If there is NO posibility of moving the wood and you want to do the best thing for the tree, how about some mulch? I would add a ring of Mulch from the last stack of wood in the right hand side of the pic, over to the left hand side to the other fence. Its a big area, but it will do the tree a lot of good and help with soil compaction, moisture retention, and will keep the roots cooler.

Is that the ONLY place your dog(s) do their 'magic'? If so I would definately water that spot frequently to try and get some of the Urine out of the soil, as it is a very high PH.
 
Firewood can also harbor insects and pests that can harm the trees in the area. The wood may have insect egg masses that are overwintering and, in the spring, may relocate to your oak. This of course, has a lot to do with where the firewood came from, how it was stored originally, and other processes it may have went through. Just a thought to consider.
 
Thanks for the input, guys.

Is that the ONLY place your dog(s) do their 'magic'? If so I would definately water that spot frequently to try and get some of the Urine out of the soil, as it is a very high PH.

It's the only place they're supposed to do their magic...the boy pugs don't always remember that, though. I do run the sprinkler on the dog area pretty regularly during the watering season.


It looks to me like the biggest problem may be soil compaction from human activity and vehicles used to move the wood year after year. Another thing to consider if the wood is cut up in that location is the continued adding of bar oil to a small location.

Gotcha. I've stopped cutting on the lawn, and am now doing it on the driveway - it is easier to clean up the chips, too. The man-induced compaction issue isn't that bad at the moment, as I rarely put the trailer on the lawn and that part of the yard hasn't been fenced yet. I think that if I can continue to improve the microbial life in the soil, keep it from drying out into a brick, it should be good.


Firewood can also harbor insects and pests that can harm the trees in the area. The wood may have insect egg masses that are overwintering and, in the spring, may relocate to your oak. This of course, has a lot to do with where the firewood came from, how it was stored originally, and other processes it may have went through. Just a thought to consider.

Very good point. Most of what I've split up this year has been good, clean, solid stuff. But even still, I have no way of knowing what's hiding in there...
 
The insect issue is one I have problems with every year. The sawflys are so bad around here it drives me nuts. From the research I have done they dont harm live trees, but the sure played hell with my honey locust mainly and a few other species of firewood that has been curing in the backyard. What can a person do to kill these wood destroying insects that wont run risk of poisoning us when we burn the firewood?
 
Most people don't recommend treating firewood with any pesticides, due to the reasons you mentioned. Many insects in firewood may not come directly from the source of the wood, but may actually decide to nest there when it is already in your yard. It provides a nice safe place for many moths and insects of that nature to lay eggs,typically in the late summer. In this case, some sort of cover may help some, but probably the best remedy is to store the firewood away from trees, if convenient, and maybe even try to use it all up before late spring, early summer when most larvae begins to emerge.
 
The insect issue is one I have problems with every year. The sawflys are so bad around here it drives me nuts. From the research I have done they dont harm live trees, but the sure played hell with my honey locust mainly and a few other species of firewood that has been curing in the backyard. What can a person do to kill these wood destroying insects that wont run risk of poisoning us when we burn the firewood?

You could start a fire in a wood stove and burn the wood, one or two pieces at a time...LOL!
 
You could start a fire in a wood stove and burn the wood, one or two pieces at a time...LOL!

Ya think? Ok, seriously for those of us who care. What Im getting at is the yellow sawfly basically destroyed a cord and a half of honey locust I had curing in the woodpile. It weighs almost like Siberian Elm now. They targeted this wood for whatever reason, but also damaged other woods.
 
Bowtie, I apologize, I believe I misunderstood your question. I thought you meant the sawflys from the firewood were harming live honey locusts in your yard, not the actual firewood itself. In that case, I have to admit that I am a bit ignorant when it comes to the process of curing firewood. I would imagine the first step would be to identify the insect. Sounds like youve done so already, and you figured out its a type of sawfly. The majority, if not all, sawfly species lay eggs mid-late summer and overwinter, then the offspring emerge in the early to mid part of spring, depending on the temperature. Would it be possible to harvest the wood according to a time frame that the hatched sawflys have a lesser chance of causing damage? I would think the most damage would be caused around late spring to mid summer. Or maybe look closer at the source of the wood you are harvesting, and try to remedy the situation there? Once again, I apologize that I don't know much about firewood curing times, etc, but this definately makes me want to learn! Hopefully my suggestion can help you out some too.
 
Good reply. The problem is that the best time to harvest trees that are dying, damaged, etc. for firewood is in the winter time while they are dormant and the sap is down. Then let them cure all spring and summer to be dry for the cold months. Consequently, thats the go time for sawflys and all other nasty bugs. I think its just part of the game to deal with.
 
Your fire wood storage and oak protection problems??

Howdy, just repeatedly walking around under our oaks, and removing the leaves is enough to make a difference in most parts of our county. I live on the very edge of oak habitabilty and have had good luck with preservation of oaks by removing all human and pet activity from under the dripline and leaving all the leaves. I selctively and carefully pull non native grasses/weeds.

I am not sure how much of this applies/is do-able to your situation in Michigan, and in the suburbs.

Not scientific or anything, but most of the Oaks I have seen that died this past year from drought and insects had significant activity fromus and our critters underneath. I saw few deaths not adjacent to the wildland interface. But maybe I aint getting out to the backcountry enough to see all the deaths there. but in the areas I do get inot, no big die off of non fire dmaged oak.

As for the wood, incubate your piles with black plastic once or twice a year, that ought to kill the little bastar_s!!

I like your idea of going up a bit with your wood, I space mine for similar effect in regards to rodents, and keep the storage racks off the ground.

One last thought, if these oaks evolved under certain set of conditions with certain other mebers in plant community and with acertain soil chemistry and community, mimicking that probably puts the odds more in your favor.

Just my opinions, Dave.
 
One thing that comes to my mind is, possibly there are allelopathic chemicals or even the woods tannings leaching out of the wood and into the root zone that could be harming the tree. Maybe the occasional summer rain is washing something harmful into the soil?
 
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