Ryobi 14" saw (RY3714) dies when you give it gas?

[glenintenn]

Greetings,

Please point me to other threads if I overlooked any in search-- I did look before posting.

I have a 3yo Ryobi gas chainsaw. Really like it for limbing and quick road clearing after windstorms. It recently started bogging down or stalling when you give it gas. It starts fine but as soon as you try to rev it, it bogs or dies. if you work with it you can eventually get it to rev but there's a lot of dying, head smacking and then getting it to run for a minute or two.

I took the carb apart and completely cleaned it... making sure that carb cleaner would pass through the gas ports. One thing I didn't attempt was replacing the diaphragm on the bottom of the carb-- could this be related to the problem? It doesn't seem to have any holes in the diaphragm plastic ... I dried off the carb and gently squirted carb cleaner into the gas line feeding the diaphragm cavity...no liquid appeared through the diaphragm. Put it back together after thoroughly cleaning but not much change... it runs slightly better but the bogging down issue remains. I actually have another junk Chinese carb I could throw on there but I was trying to get to the bottom of what causes this so I don't recreate the problem.

Also, there is a feed tube from the air filter into the carb... that had the slightest bit of super fine, oily sawdust in it. I saw none of that in the carb but wondered if these white plastic fabric-like filters (hard, 2 piece, snap together filter with no solid fiber cloth in the midle) on Ryobi are not very good at keeping out sawdust?

Thoughts/guidance on what to check?

GL

 

[Jasonrkba]

Sounds like service time. Lines and that carb manifold. You will find those saws are not well thought of but if you like it that's what counts.

 

[Goofaroo]

I don’t know much about Ryobi saws but you might get more help if you tell us what model it is.
Is the carb adjustable? Have you tried to tune it? Do you know if it was built by MTD or Husky?
You said you have a junk Chinese carb. You could try it. It might be better than the Chinese carb that’s on it now.

 

[glenintenn]

I don’t know much about Ryobi saws but you might get more help if you tell us what model it is.
Is the carb adjustable? Have you tried to tune it? Do you know if it was built by MTD or Husky?
You said you have a junk Chinese carb. You could try it. It might be better than the Chinese carb that’s on it now.

It's a Ryobi RY3714, 14" 37cc gas powered chainsaw. Carb is adjustable ... idle screw, then two pacman style H and L screws.

The manual gives no indication of which underlying manufacturer it was... are there engine model number ranges or numbers indicating who built it?

I suppose with the crap i saw inside the air filter cavity and in the carb manifold, I probably really have to peel out the old diaphragm, clean out the jet and replace the diaphragm like here . I just don't see many sellers of a specific diaphragm for this saw but it looks exactly like the one in the video linked in the last sentence so maybe one of 5-for-$10 diaphragms would work? Again, mainly just trying to learn on this saw so that if I get a more expensive saw, I have some idea of where to troubleshoot in the future. Don't really care if I muck this one up in some way.

 

[glenintenn]

Sounds like service time. Lines and that carb manifold. You will find those saws are not well thought of but if you like it that's what counts.

seeing no airbubbles in the lines... i guess I could change them out as I have new line and a fuel filter. Just that it runs fine except when you first try to rev it.

The carb manifold is just a piece of solid plastic. It has no cracks that I can see. The fine sawdust/oil residue that I mentioned was on the inside of the plastic mesh air filter too... not much... just enough to see on your finger if you swiped it in there--- of course, any little bit of it could cause carb issues. I took carb cleaner to all of that thinking that if it got better with a thorough cleaning, I'd get some sort of thicker mesh cloth to put in there and see if it killed airflow too much. But the bogging/dying still happens when you try to rev without any air filter on it at all-- not as bad but still not like it was a couple of weeks ago.

>>not well thought of<<

I hear you. I was taking it apart to figure out what the underlying issue is for future reference if I get a more expensive saw.

 

[rupedoggy]

Ryobi 14" saw (RY3714) dies when you give it gas?
First off it should not be gas it should be MIX. Second off you are not giving it gas (mix) when you apply the throttle you are giving it AIR. Adjust the carb for more mix. If it is a carb with limiter screws, defeat them.
Edit to say put fresh mix in your saw.

 

[glenintenn]

Ryobi 14" saw (RY3714) dies when you give it gas?
First off it should not be gas it should be MIX. Second off you are not giving it gas (mix) when you apply the throttle you are giving it AIR. Adjust the carb for more mix. If it is a carb with limiter screws, defeat them.
Edit to say put fresh mix in your saw.

right. it is mixed gas for sure. same mix I have been using. I use only pure gas (zero ethanol... at least, if I believe the mom and pop gas shop where I buy it... I assume they're on the up and up) with additive for 50:1. I haven't been picky about additive in the past... this is just a Walmart squeeze bottle to measure out 50:1 amount of additive, pour in gas can and mix.

when you say "defeat them" ... i have tried turning the H and L screws in the past but they seemed to really do nothing so I set them back where they started... if the issue is happening right when you pull the trigger to give it more air, which screw ... H or L? It has no issues at high revs if you can get it by the bogging issue. I guess I can fool with L setting to see if something is off.

 

[rupedoggy]

The L adjustment helps the saw jump to the high speed circuit. If it is to lean it will idle OK but bog when it tries to "high speed". However if the high sped is to lean it will still bog. It has to be out about one and a quarter from bottom stop. If you can not turn the screws more than about three quarters then there are limiters on the screws (usually plastic) remove.

 

[Wood Doctor]

The L adjustment helps the saw jump to the high speed circuit. If it is to lean it will idle OK but bog when it tries to "high speed". However if the high sped is to lean it will still bog. It has to be out about one and a quarter from bottom stop. If you can not turn the screws more than about three quarters then there are limiters on the screws (usually plastic) remove.

Correct. Open up the low speed setcrew about a quarter turn and see if it improves. That may be all that you need. Those plastic limiters drive everybody crazy and every year they make them tougher to defeat.