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Firewood, Heating and Wood Burning Equipment
Wedge design
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<blockquote data-quote="Steve NW WI" data-source="post: 4366417" data-attributes="member: 32687"><p>Fat wedges suck in stringy wood, and in my opinion don't give a lot of advantage in easy to bust wood either. My wedge has gotten to a radiused tip over the years, but I have perhaps "excessive" tonnage, so I don't notice a difference. With a smaller cylinder and a 2 stage pump, there's probably more to be gained with a sharp point.</p><p></p><p>I've mentioned this before, but it's worth saying again. Weld some bar stock to the pusher plate on both sides of the wedge, so that at full stroke the pads actually extend past the wedge tip. It makes for a complete split, nearly every time.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Steve NW WI, post: 4366417, member: 32687"] Fat wedges suck in stringy wood, and in my opinion don't give a lot of advantage in easy to bust wood either. My wedge has gotten to a radiused tip over the years, but I have perhaps "excessive" tonnage, so I don't notice a difference. With a smaller cylinder and a 2 stage pump, there's probably more to be gained with a sharp point. I've mentioned this before, but it's worth saying again. Weld some bar stock to the pusher plate on both sides of the wedge, so that at full stroke the pads actually extend past the wedge tip. It makes for a complete split, nearly every time. [/QUOTE]
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