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Firewood, Heating and Wood Burning Equipment
Well I've screwed myself-need a heating design person
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<blockquote data-quote="NCPABill" data-source="post: 5228745" data-attributes="member: 46315"><p>Not real sure that I know what I'm saying, but why the heat exchanger? I would run supply from the boiler to the tank (on top) and return to boiler from the bottom of the tank. When the boiler reaches temperature, it will turn on the pump and move water. The real big benefit of a tank is that your fire burns full speed and is most efficient. There are some really nice pump flanges with built in shut-offs that I used and they are nice! I think they were a little cheaper than ball valves and fittings. All of my plumbing is 1.25", with expanders (opposite of reducers?) to 2" a the tank. I used a hole saw to cut holes in the tank and simply welded in 2" pipe. I think it was a 2-5/16" hole saw, but not sure. This is to reduce velocity and mixing as I wanted the hot water to stay at the top of the tank, then it gets "pushed" down. </p><p></p><p>Does that part make sense?</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="NCPABill, post: 5228745, member: 46315"] Not real sure that I know what I'm saying, but why the heat exchanger? I would run supply from the boiler to the tank (on top) and return to boiler from the bottom of the tank. When the boiler reaches temperature, it will turn on the pump and move water. The real big benefit of a tank is that your fire burns full speed and is most efficient. There are some really nice pump flanges with built in shut-offs that I used and they are nice! I think they were a little cheaper than ball valves and fittings. All of my plumbing is 1.25", with expanders (opposite of reducers?) to 2" a the tank. I used a hole saw to cut holes in the tank and simply welded in 2" pipe. I think it was a 2-5/16" hole saw, but not sure. This is to reduce velocity and mixing as I wanted the hot water to stay at the top of the tank, then it gets "pushed" down. Does that part make sense? [/QUOTE]
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