What Glue do I use for laminateing

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Matildasmate

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Hi Guy's Back in the caveman day's , a long time ago we used aquadere or Pva glue to laminate timber together , But was wondering what everyone else used , I would prefer to use some sort of water proof or water resistant glue . I eventually want to use it to glue a timber veneer of around 10mm or 3/8" thickness to preferably marine ply , but it will not be used in marine condition's , it will be for kitchen cabinet's . I don't want any chance of it peeling of in due to dampness or lack of using the right quality glue . Cheer's MM
 
One type used by bowyers is Resorcinol. Can't tell you how expensive it is, but seems to be durable and water resistant.
 
So many options, one above works fine, Water resistant carpenters glue like titebond 3 would be fine (cheap, easy to use...), 2 part 24 hour cure Epoxy is very good too, maybe my first pick and gives you lots of set up time to get evreything in place and clamped, but it costs a bit more and is not as easy to use.
 
One type used by bowyers is Resorcinol. Can't tell you how expensive it is, but seems to be durable and water resistant.
Gee it has been a long time since I have heard that name , thank's for your input . Cheer's MM
 
So many options, one above works fine, Water resistant carpenters glue like titebond 3 would be fine (cheap, easy to use...), 2 part 24 hour cure Epoxy is very good too, maybe my first pick and gives you lots of set up time to get evreything in place and clamped, but it costs a bit more and is not as easy to use.

Thank's for your input Timberwolf . Cheer's MM
 
I agree with tw.I build guitars with titebond and it has never failed me.I also use epoxy for some applications also.
 
I also use Titebond II or III for the majority of my glue-ups in the shop. Although this is another one of those subjects like mix oil, where folks get very loyal to a certain type or brand and nothing else is even entertained. Over the years I've used several PVA's, but last 10 only Titebond because it has worked so well for me and I'm one of those "if it ain't broke don't fix it" guys. The Titebond III is also waterproof. I've actually used it outdoors and found that it truly is, at least for the three years it's been in the weather so far.
 
I also use Titebond II or III for the majority of my glue-ups in the shop. Although this is another one of those subjects like mix oil, where folks get very loyal to a certain type or brand and nothing else is even entertained. Over the years I've used several PVA's, but last 10 only Titebond because it has worked so well for me and I'm one of those "if it ain't broke don't fix it" guys. The Titebond III is also waterproof. I've actually used it outdoors and found that it truly is, at least for the three years it's been in the weather so far.

This Titebond stuff sound's pretty good . Thank's Guy's . Cheer's MM
 
The need for waterproof glue is generaly overstated. unless you are building a boat waterproof glue is usualy not needed. Just take a look at all the old wood exterior doors made with hide glue. These doors were protected with several coats of good paint, and it is the finish that should provide the waterproofing for any glue.

For kitchen cabinets use what ever you normaly use and are familiar with. the one thing that will have the biggest effect on your laminations is gluing the same thickness facing on the back of the panel at the same time the fronts are glued up. It is not necessary to use the same type of wood for the front and back but they should be sawn the same, ie flat or quarter. and they shoud have very similar rates of movement.
 
Water Proof or Water Resistant

There is a difference. I have used System 3 two part epoxy (www.epoxyhelp.com) on laminated cherry that is subjected to submersion in ocean water for hours at a time. The application I am talking about is spear guns. I have had no delamination and no water infiltration. I use the epoxy for the laminations and for the outer protective coat. Its really good stuff.

I serioulsy doubt that any titebond glue would perform like this stuff does.
 
I use System 3 epoxy all the time on my kayaks and boats, used to use West on the big boat. Epoxy is serious overkill for kitchen cabinets, which are hopefully not underwater much. Plain old wood glue applied properly makes a bond stronger than most woods. Problem is, it doesn't get applied properly very often. Slop it on and vacuum bag it, it will never come apart. Or build a panel press if you're doing a bunch of them.

As has been said, there's a whole lot of furniture out there held together with hide glue, still strong after a few hundred years in some cases.

Buy a gallon or two of yellow glue and enjoy your cabinets.
 
I heartily agree

System 3 is overkill for cabinets. I was trying to point out the difference in water proof and water resistance. If I were gluing laminated beams that were going to be exposed to the weather I would use the System 3 epoxy.

There is a huge difference in it and any hide glue out there.
 
There is a difference. I have used System 3 two part epoxy (www.epoxyhelp.com) on laminated cherry that is subjected to submersion in ocean water for hours at a time...

I serioulsy doubt that any titebond glue would perform like this stuff does.
I agree, Titebond III, although waterproof, is still a PVA and won't perform as well as waterproof two part epoxies. But it wan't designed to. That's like comparing a little Ripsaw bandmill with a $50K full haydraulic bandmill. Apples and oranges.
 
All good stuff guy's , great info , all veiw's welcome . I cant really say that I have ever seen hide glue . Cheer's MM
 
I have also used system 3 epoxy and it is good. I have also used us composites epoxy and it worked equally well, but is priced better. http://www.uscomposites.com/ I have used close to 5 gallons of it while fiberglassing a hovercraft hull without any problems.
 

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