What is the biggest bar?

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Big long bars seem to be the new fad. Must make guys feel like their saw is more badass. Don't get me wrong, if you're regularly cutting really BIG timber, it might be justified to run a longer bar.
BUT...if you're normally cutting firewood sized trees, or even occasional timber up to 2 to 3 feet in diameter, you do not need anything longer than a 20" bar.
The only thing a "too long" bar does, (besides bragging rights and making you feel your saw is badass) is to rob your saws power and bog it down.
Drives me crazy to see these guys who use their saws mostly for firewood, cutting 8" - 12" diameter logs on a regular basis, but they have a 24" or 32" bar on their saw! Lol, and then complain that they want an even bigger saw, or need to 'port it out' etc. because it's just not 'pullin' the chain' to their liking! Lol
Well, if they'd take that super long bar off and put a reasonable length bar 18" to 20" for the job they're doing, it would be equivalent to upping the horsepower by a huge margin and they'd be super impressed with their saw and how it 'pulls', and they'd cut a ton more wood!
No saw lesser than 70cc should ever have a bar longer than 20", unless you're always cutting soft wood, regardless of the manufacturers quoted maximum bar length.
Just my 2 cents - I was a logger for many years and there wasn't a tree in the state of WV that I couldn't fall and buck with a 288xp husky w/ 20" bar, and that was some big old Northern Red Oaks.
 
Big long bars seem to be the new fad. Must make guys feel like their saw is more badass. Don't get me wrong, if you're regularly cutting really BIG timber, it might be justified to run a longer bar.
BUT...if you're normally cutting firewood sized trees, or even occasional timber up to 2 to 3 feet in diameter, you do not need anything longer than a 20" bar.
The only thing a "too long" bar does, (besides bragging rights and making you feel your saw is badass) is to rob your saws power and bog it down.
Drives me crazy to see these guys who use their saws mostly for firewood, cutting 8" - 12" diameter logs on a regular basis, but they have a 24" or 32" bar on their saw! Lol, and then complain that they want an even bigger saw, or need to 'port it out' etc. because it's just not 'pullin' the chain' to their liking! Lol
Well, if they'd take that super long bar off and put a reasonable length bar 18" to 20" for the job they're doing, it would be equivalent to upping the horsepower by a huge margin and they'd be super impressed with their saw and how it 'pulls', and they'd cut a ton more wood!
No saw lesser than 70cc should ever have a bar longer than 20", unless you're always cutting soft wood, regardless of the manufacturers quoted maximum bar length.
Just my 2 cents - I was a logger for many years and there wasn't a tree in the state of WV that I couldn't fall and buck with a 288xp husky w/ 20" bar, and that was some big old Northern Red Oaks.

There’s a difference between west coast cutting and east coast, even in hardwoods I can pull a 32 with a 562 semi skip square chain. One difference is the ground, two is walking timber, three the size of the wood.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Big long bars seem to be the new fad. Must make guys feel like their saw is more badass. Don't get me wrong, if you're regularly cutting really BIG timber, it might be justified to run a longer bar.
BUT...if you're normally cutting firewood sized trees, or even occasional timber up to 2 to 3 feet in diameter, you do not need anything longer than a 20" bar.
The only thing a "too long" bar does, (besides bragging rights and making you feel your saw is badass) is to rob your saws power and bog it down.
Drives me crazy to see these guys who use their saws mostly for firewood, cutting 8" - 12" diameter logs on a regular basis, but they have a 24" or 32" bar on their saw! Lol, and then complain that they want an even bigger saw, or need to 'port it out' etc. because it's just not 'pullin' the chain' to their liking! Lol
Well, if they'd take that super long bar off and put a reasonable length bar 18" to 20" for the job they're doing, it would be equivalent to upping the horsepower by a huge margin and they'd be super impressed with their saw and how it 'pulls', and they'd cut a ton more wood!
No saw lesser than 70cc should ever have a bar longer than 20", unless you're always cutting soft wood, regardless of the manufacturers quoted maximum bar length.
Just my 2 cents - I was a logger for many years and there wasn't a tree in the state of WV that I couldn't fall and buck with a 288xp husky w/ 20" bar, and that was some big old Northern Red Oaks.



I'm just a Firewood cutter, mostly Douglas Fir and Hemlock, run a 24" Full comp on my 266XP, and a 36" or 44" Skip on the 3120XP, yep, I COULD cut the 28-34" logs that I often cut with a 20" B&C, but WHY? If the 266 won't cut all the way through, I just grab the bigger saw, what is the point of cutting from both sides if you don't HAVE to? I bought the 3120 mainly for milling, and eventually I plan on adding a 395XP with a 32" B&C, that and the 266 will probably cover 90% of my cutting from one side. of course, I don't hesitate to grab the 353 with either an 18" or 16" B&C when the wood gets smaller, I'm not leaving half a Good tree in the woods;)

I believe in using the right saw for the job, but I'm not wasting my time cutting from both sides just to overwork a smaller saw.


Doug :cheers:
 
I ran a 24" bar on an 036 for many years. I finally got smart and figured out it was so far out of balance it was wearing me out......constantly pulling up on the front handle and pushing down on the rear.
It's less work to handle a heavier power head that balances your bar, and it cuts faster too.

Tony
 
I run 24" full comp on my CS-600P and it does fine with it (hardwood). I've also ran 30" skip chain on it and it actually doesn't grumble much. I'm guessing my CS-620PW would do even better with either one of those set-ups but haven't tried them yet........Cliff
 

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