which rigging rope?

[Geordie]

The Tree Service I work for just uses old climbing lines as lowering ropes. I'm interested in getting a dedicated lowering rope and wondered if people had opinions on which rigging rope is the one to buy. Thanks!

 

[Pelorus]

I use 1/2" 16 strand Arbormaster most of the time.

 

[jmester]

I like Samson stable braid. Guess that also depends on whether you are natural crotch rigging or using a block or pulley. I used stable braid in natural crotch rigging for years with great success.

 

[Geordie]

Almost always natural crotch rigging. Thanks, I'll take a look at both your suggestions.

 

[jmester]

Samson also make a rope called tree master witch is a 3 strand hard lay rope that is great for natural rigging not as strong as stable or arbor master but holds up very well. When I first started climbing the company I worked for used it a lot. Also works very well with masdam rope come alongs.

 

[jtc16]

I don't do natural crotch rigging but I use arborplex 1/2 and have taken some pretty hefty limbs with it.

 

[TheJollyLogger]

And find a new company to work for.

 

[Tree94]

Samson 9/16" Stable Braid Bull Rope

Diameter: 9/16" (15mm)
Weight: 11 lbs/100ft (16.4kg/100m)
Specific Gravity: 1.38
Average Breaking Strength: 13,300lbs (6,000kg)
Work Load Limit: 2,600lbs (1,200kg)
Elongation at 10% Average Breaking Strength: 1.1%

I use this as well. No complaints, and I've done lots of natural crotch rigging with it and it holds up good..

 

[beastmaster]

I use 1\2 in 3 strand a lot for most my lowering of branches. It's durable, and cheap. My heavier rigging lines I use with blocks is dyasorp.. I love that stuff. I'm sure it's saved my life a time or two.

 

[Pelorus]

And find a new company to work for.

Retired climbing rope in decent condition is acceptable for light rigging and tag lines in my world.
Negative blocking heavy stuff; nope. And I use a different colour lines for different applications - minimizes possibility of my actual climbing line getting portawrapped or yanked.

 

[TheTreeSpyder]

Retired climbing rope in decent condition is acceptable for light rigging and tag lines in my world.
Negative blocking heavy stuff; nope. And I use a different color lines for different applications - minimizes possibility of my actual climbing line getting portawrapped or yanked.

Different colors also makes individual rope histories easier to remember;
i also prefer like red tape on 1 end, yellow on other against contrasting blue line.
So can say, bring red end of blue for even less confusion.
Might even remember yellow end is always less used, looks better and choose it for rig end on a more dynamic hit, dog out red for other stuff.


200-400# loads are real weight. If not dropped, worn 5-7k line could work well, i'd even pretighten with rig and slow hinge to mitigate any dynamic hit handed off to this old friend. Past this line; i'd be more choosey.

Why are the climbing lines degraded? What are their histories? etc.
What loading ranges of weight x drop are you trying to cover with this flexible link thing called rope?
Best is to maximize rope choice to work load/conditions/strategy/needs/future needs(how soon and how much needed in future).
.
For a stiff, precision, pretightening, high loading, no drop allowed ,
totally focused on line tensile/ "man's rope" of most strength in a tight package, 'bulldog' StableBraid is a fine choice.
.
But, i'd save it for those uses mostly, perhaps look to a softer/feminine side of rope for other needs;
like forgiving/dampening instead of being so 'hard' and unforgiving of dynamic forces/hits;
passed thru rope device to all connecting points/supports/anchors/tightening knots etc.
.
1/2" 5k line will present more forgiveness to a 500# load than a 10k line of same manufacture/larger diameter.
>>could be better choice if clearance isn't an issue, input loading(to line) will be equal to output loading - forgiveness(from line)
This forgiveness dampens impact to whole system, including support/anchors/hitches jamming etc.
StableBraid is already stiffer, so would magnify effect of impacts of using a matching 10k /softer line of 1/2" climbing line.
Stiffer lines will also drop to a lower relative capacity percentage (of their absolute/pure inline capacity) on tighter bights branches.
***factoid showing how consistent this is: Same 500# impact in a 2:1(pulley on load) 5k line, gives hit/ shockload closer to 500# on 10k, or 250# on 5k 2x!!***
So higher tensile stiffer line on smaller crotch, taking a dynamic hit; can take macho/most tensile system to much less, than softer forgiveness, or more likely just closer to coin flip!
.
Sniper, not shotgun your line choice to task, tools, conditions etc. ; play it piece by piece like a chess game is best!
It's good to have another line on shelf; can share the load, but all in all not tempted to try to 'bluff' with less than needed!
.
rope does degrade over time, so don't save too long, know history of lines personally as a friend you trust with this loading.
Elasticity/dampening can get played out of a line temporarily or permanently; tensile degrades are permanent.
mytreelessons.com/rope-n-saw.swf