Zama Carb rebuild on 034

[mheim1]

Still trying to get that 034 running.
Just got a carb kit in and opened the carb. As a total :newbie: 2 things struck me as odd:
1. there is a screen (little round mesh) in the kit, but I didn't see one in the carb at all (maybe that's why that thing was flooding).
2. take a look at the inlet needle I removed (how do I insert a picture right here and not just as an attachment?); it has sealer on it. Is that normal?

As always, thanks a lot for the advice.

 

[pioneerguy600]

That tip is normal, think it is made from hypalon or some other fuel resistant material but is normal on metering needles.
Pioneerguy600

 

[yo2001]

The round mesh goes to the fuel inlet on the carb body. It's located other side of the diaphram. Should be a one bolt holding the cover on.

The orange tip is normal. That's there so the needle will seat on the carb body.

 

[Rookie1]

The screen is a filter that goes in the fuel inlet,other side of the needle. There should be no glue on the needle. You need to clean it off and the carb out really well.
As for the pics. See the yello box with the mountain,click on that and paste adress from pic from attachment page.

 

[andosca]

i can't help you but good luck getting it running it's a great saw.

 

[mheim1]

Man, you guys are fast.

The new needle in the kit doesn't have the sealer on.

Oh well, I'm just cleaning everything off and put the new stuff in.
Hopefully that'll work.

The round mesh goes to the fuel inlet on the carb body.

It just presses in there, right?

 

[pioneerguy600]

Man, you guys are fast.

The new needle in the kit doesn't have the sealer on.

Oh well, I'm just cleaning everything off and put the new stuff in.
Hopefully that'll work.



It just presses in there, right?

The new needle should just drop in no pressing necessary but total cleanliness is absolutely necessary
Pioneerguy600

 

[Rookie1]

The new needle should just drop in no pressing necessary but total cleanliness is absolutely necessary
Pioneerguy600

You mean the screen presses in right. I use a little socket that fits in the hole.

 

[pioneerguy600]

You mean the screen presses in right. I use a little socket that fits in the hole.

Ok , missed that, yes the screen presses in to the recess , a pencil with an eraser on the end works good for most screens. Have to watch using a bolt end as it will sometimes tear the screen, round the edges a bit before pushing too hard.
Pioneerguy600

 

[mheim1]

Got it in; let's try this:

Now on the other side, is there a good way to set the height of the little metering lever without the "Zama Z-tool"?
Thanks.

 

[mheim1]

Pasting the picture, 2nd try (sooner or later, I'll get it):
View attachment 100949

Put everything together, re-attached the carb, new fuel line and filter and gave it a few pulls. Nothing came to life yet; but the spark plug was still dry.
Guess it takes more than 5 pulls to get the gas flowing.
Had to quit last night, will continue tonight.
In regards to the sealer on the inlet needle:
Is there a consensus among the experts if sealer should be applied to the tip (haven't read anything in this regard yet)?
I sure hope I'll get this thing running tonight.

 

[Brian VT]

...is there a good way to set the height of the little metering lever without the "Zama Z-tool"?

The one on the 360 I did gets set flush with the top of the carb. body.

 

[mheim1]

The one on the 360 I did gets set flush with the top of the carb. body.

The 034 manual says set it flush.
The Zama manual says flush to 0.3mm gap.
0.3mm? Yeah right. How would I measure this?
What I'm really wondering about is how sensitive it actually is (is there really a noticeable difference between 0.1mm and 0.3mm gap)?

 

[Brian VT]

0.3mm? Yeah right. How would I measure this?

Put a straight edge across the top. Insert a .3mm feeler guage between the straight edge and the lever. Mine worked fine at flush.

 

[rupedoggy]

Never put sealer on the needle. It usually takes more than five pulls to get fuel flowing into the lines and carburetor. Be sure the choke is closing all the way when activated.

 

[pioneerguy600]

Pasting the picture, 2nd try (sooner or later, I'll get it):
View attachment 100949

In regards to the sealer on the inlet needle:
Is there a consensus among the experts if sealer should be applied to the tip (haven't read anything in this regard yet)?
I sure hope I'll get this thing running tonight.

The sealer on the inlet needle tip is a factory supplied method of manufacture, or in other words its made that way. It is a special compound and can be red or black in color, the red is supposed to be more resistant to fuels with alcohol added. Don`t try adding sealer yourself, the rebuild kits come with needles that either have soft tips or metal tip, all metal construction and even some kits have plastic/nylon needles. The plastic/nylon ones I don`t prefer to use and would reuse any of the other 3 types if I had a choice.
Pioneerguy600

 

[fxrupr]

ZAMA EPA homeowner carb

Just finished tearing a ZAMA C1M-H57-18A carb apart and putting it back together twice. It was on a John Deere J3816 chainsaw, made by Homelite. First without removing the EPA idiot knobs and the next time with removing them. According to the ZAMA spec page you bottom the jets and the idle screw, then back the jets out 2 turns and start tweaking the lean screw first. I tweaked until the saw popped weakly and then tweaked some more. It takes a lot of tweaking. After I got it to run with the low speed jet I started with the high speed one. After I got it to run fast I set the idle down a little and gave it back to the friend of mine who owns it. He doesn’t know it yet but John Deere isn’t carrying handheld tools any more or stocking any parts.

After it was running really well I put the idiot knobs back on so idiots wouldn’t know how I got it running.
I felt like an idiot for working on it.