Skip chain, is it worth it?

I run a 36" bar on one of my saws, just wondering if it's really worth while? I've checked other threads and seen that a lot of guys do run skip chain.

Marquis said:

I run a 36" bar on one of my saws, just wondering if it's really worth while? I've checked other threads and seen that a lot of guys do run skip chain.

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It is really the only way to go on a 36", not literally, but practically. It allows for better chip clearance to keep you going in the big cuts.

I'm sure you'll be capping stumps with it, so rocking the chain will be a reality.
Full skip won't take you too long to touch up with a file do to it having 1/2 the teeth of a full compliment chain.

Some advice: Run Stihl chain, it stays sharp quite a bit longer than Oregon or Carlton. Also, don't drop the rakers too low (like a firewood saw) because the lower they are the harder you will rock that chain when you do. If you hand file, you know it's better to file a little bit more often, then a whole lot at once.

Merry Christmas and a happy cutting new year.

Thanks a bunch for the info, gonna try it. Also gonna try a Stihl chain too. I try to sharpen a little, often, but doesn't always work that way. How about using a bench sharpener. My buddy gave me one since he doesn't do firewood anymore. I am a little hesitant to try it, like to do it by hand and get that hook and edge like I want it.

Marquis said:

Thanks a bunch for the info, gonna try it. Also gonna try a Stihl chain too. I try to sharpen a little, often, but doesn't always work that way. How about using a bench sharpener. My buddy gave me one since he doesn't do firewood anymore. I am a little hesitant to try it, like to do it by hand and get that hook and edge like I want it.

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Bench grinders are cool if ya get a good one. Those cheapys you can get at Harbor Freight will do the job for little bit, then the bushings wear out. I have a grinder that cost about 170, does a great job. I Use to have them sharpened for me, but dude was always late/closed during normal hours, had to make a switch.

Here's what Stihl says about one of their skip chains. Like Nails said it allows for better chip clearance and gives you the ability to run longer bar lengths. What kind of saw are you running the 36" bar on?

STIHL RAPID™ Micro™. There are two tie straps between every two cutting teeth, allowing better chip discharge and higher chain speed and less sharpening maintenance with more powerful saws and longer guide bars.

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I run full skip on my longer bars, 24" -36". They also run fine with a full complement of cutters. The big difference I noticed is having less sharpening when a chain is badly damaged. As a time-saver it is worth it. If you buy a grinder get the ABN wheel to really save a lot of time.

I run a 385xp on my 36" bar, been thing about putting a 392 on it instead

Nailsbeats said:

It is really the only way to go on a 36", not literally, but practically. It allows for better chip clearance to keep you going in the big cuts.

I'm sure you'll be capping stumps with it, so rocking the chain will be a reality.
Full skip won't take you too long to touch up with a file do to it having 1/2 the teeth of a full compliment chain.

Some advice: Run Stihl chain, it stays sharp quite a bit longer than Oregon or Carlton. Also, don't drop the rakers too low (like a firewood saw) because the lower they are the harder you will rock that chain when you do. If you hand file, you know it's better to file a little bit more often, then a whole lot at once.

Merry Christmas and a happy cutting new year.

Click to expand...

Full skip chain has 2/3 the cutters of full comp. It is pretty muchly all I run 22" and over. I cut redwood and fir so I prefer Oregon CJX the wide kerf chain.

You will like the skiptooth on softwoods but still get better results with full on the harder stuff. Nothing beats a sharp chain....'cept for the wifes sharp tongue, now if I could put that on a chainsaw that would be some serious cuttin fer sure!:greenchainsaw:

I wouldn't run anything but a skip tooth on bars over 24-28inches. It takes half the time to sharpen one. The bench grinders are great but it takes some time to get them set up properly and to learn how to not overburn the teeth.

Marquis said:

I run a 385xp on my 36" bar, been thing about putting a 392 on it instead

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Good idea. My 385xp ran great with up to a 28" bar. 36" is a bit much. Perhaps on a ported 385xp.

Don't waste the money on skip chain for your 385 with 36" bar. I did and regret doing so. 36" bar is all the bar a 85 can handle so go easy on the saw and you'll be fine. Recomend using a 28" and never having to swap out bars or chain sizes again. I only use the 36" bar after Huricanes or storm chasing typically. Hope this helps. Good luck...

Capt. Blye said:

Don't waste the money on skip chain for your 385 with 36" bar. I did and regret doing so. 36" bar is all the bar a 85 can handle so go easy on the saw and you'll be fine. Recomend using a 28" and never having to swap out bars or chain sizes again. I only use the 36" bar after Huricanes or storm chasing typically. Hope this helps. Good luck...

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pretty retarded answer. skip chain makes a longer bar run better. anything that cuts faster, is less taxing on the engine.

####ing trolls.....:hmm3grin2orange:

:notrolls2:

My MS 880 has a 36" Full skip on it. Cuts very well and is much easier to sharpen. Any thing over 24" I would definately run full skip on. Good Luck

Mike

What about those Carbon Tipped or Diamond Tipped, never seen them, but heard about it. Big diff or no? If they are good, how much?

sgreanbeans said:

What about those Carbon Tipped or Diamond Tipped, never seen them, but heard about it. Big diff or no? If they are good, how much?

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Carbide cuts dirty stumps better because they dull slower, the problem is that you need a diamond wheel to sharpen them, and can cost $2.00/tooth. If you do a lot of stumps, and want to cut low, it is worth thee cost. IMO a regular tree service dose not need it.

Skip & full-skip are great for the average tree guy who is not a fanatic about sharpening. So it is "know your-self", with the damage I took in the USMC, I am lacking in the fine motor skills needed for a perfect job on 119 teeth (I'll never run square, as much as I love the performance). So I like skip chains on long bars.

I agree with the raker depth comment. I know a few very good fallers who keep separate chains for hard and soft-woods. The hard-wood chains are dropped to 25 vs the standard 30, so the cutter works a little less on each cut. This facilitates the full comp chain with a buried nose. You will know if the raker is too deep by the "chatter" you feel with the cut.

Bench grinders have a place in a shop, imo, for regrinds. After i have field sharpened a chain 3-4 times I need to true it up. I like to touch them up every 2 tanks of gas or so, sharper is better. Probably less often with the 385, since it is such a gas-hog. If grit or stones ding the cutter up, I like a bench grind; since I have summer angles on my cutters if i take them down by hand. Some'r this way, some'r that way and some'r someway else.

2dogs said:

Full skip chain has 2/3 the cutters of full comp. It is pretty muchly all I run 22" and over. I cut redwood and fir so I prefer Oregon CJX the wide kerf chain.

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I believe your correct on the 2/3's part.

Slvrmple72 said:

You will like the skiptooth on softwoods but still get better results with full on the harder stuff. Nothing beats a sharp chain....'cept for the wifes sharp tongue, now if I could put that on a chainsaw that would be some serious cuttin fer sure!:greenchainsaw:

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My findings also, on hardwood it don't need the chip clearance and regular sequence will cut maybe a little faster.

summit583guy said:

I wouldn't run anything but a skip tooth on bars over 24-28inches. It takes half the time to sharpen one. The bench grinders are great but it takes some time to get them set up properly and to learn how to not overburn the teeth.

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No it takes 2/3rds the time to sharpen.

I purchased a 30" bar and skip tooth set-up for my 181SE, and hate it. I guess it depends on the saw and if it has the power to effectively run standard chain at any given bar length and load.

The 181SE has PLENTY of power and doesn't need skip tooth at 30". I find myself "pushing" the saw to get it to cut effectivley even completely buried in hardwood.

I suppose it really depends on the power of the saw when the switch to skip tooth becomes necessary. At least for the 181, it's not at 30", probably closer to 34-36"......Cliff

Slvrmple72 said:

You will like the skiptooth on softwoods but still get better results with full on the harder stuff. Nothing beats a sharp chain....'cept for the wifes sharp tongue, now if I could put that on a chainsaw that would be some serious cuttin fer sure!:greenchainsaw:

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And it would be self-sharpening, & would never wear out! :biggrinbounce2:

Regardless of bar length, I used full comp on 6 cube saws, it was a given on geardrives.