One good axe

[Bluetick]

I need a decent axe. I don't need a felling axe. I do need an axe to limb, and split. I was thinking the Ox Head medium forestry axe. It seems like a quality axe that would meet my needs. What think you?

 

[catbuster]

I think that if you can sharpen an axe Council Tool make a damn fine axe for a really good price. It's good steel, the sharpening from the factory is a bit lacking, though.

For general axe work I personally prefer a Dayton or Jersey pattern with a square pole. Hudson Bay is really good in softwoods and light stuff, it's not really suited to hardwoods... It doesn't carry enough weight. Which might be be to your preference.

I like my axes 3.5 lb or so. Hudson Bay axes are usually around 2. When I go fall timber I carry an 8 lb axe I adopted from a New York irons set, but it's really more of a driving tool than a cutting tool and I use it for that purpose.

 

[Bluetick]

Here's what I did. I went down to the hardware store and bought a Fiskars Super Splitting Axe. Then I called my local Stihl dealer and ordered the Pro Universal Forestry Axe. I'm using the Fiskars for splitting -- and I'm very impressed with it; I'm going to use the forestry axe for limbing in places I don't want to stick a running chainsaw into.

 

[earlthegoat2]

I just ordered the Pro Forestry Axe. What do you think of it so far even though you may not have used it yet?

 

[Bluetick]

The local shop said there was a problem with Stihl's distribution center and they couldn't place the order yet . They said they would place it this week. Shouldn't be too much longer. I'll post my opinion about the axe when it arrives.

 

[earlthegoat2]

I got mine today. It needs sharpening but that is expected and not an issue. Have not put it to use yet. Just made a better sheath for it since the factory one needs improvement but once again that is expected and not an issue since I am set up for leather fabrication.

 

[Bluetick]

I got mine today. It needs sharpening but that is expected and not an issue. Have not put it to use yet. Just made a better sheath for it since the factory one needs improvement but once again that is expected and not an issue since I am set up for leather fabrication.

What angle do you use for sharpening? Do you use one of those round stones?

 

[earlthegoat2]

I have a Tormek with the axe jig. I ground it down to the factory edge at 25 degrees. Then I put a few strokes on it with a medium diamond file. Then honed it with a extra fine Spyderco ceramic stone

I don't know if your familiar with a Tormek or not but it is a power whetstone. Here is a pic of how it works.



Here is the sheath I made for it. Granted this was a quick and dirty sheath. Note the absence of rivets. You really don't need them if you have done a good job sewing. Manufacturers will often only rivet a sheath together. This is perfectly acceptable as well but it is a good example of a manufacturer of axes not wanting to put in the extra investment for a production sewing process for sheath building. It is a detail that is probably lost on most anyway who are perfectly fine with a riveted sheath made from good leather. I agree with the manufacturers on this. It is probably not worth the expense and if they use good material then they will get a good product whether they use rivets thread or even use kydex.