Craftsman (roper built) 3.7 clutch removal

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jerrycmorrow

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Rebuilding this saw and having a ####ens of a time getting the clutch. I pretty certain it comes off by unscrewing in CCW direction though am not certain. Just going on intuition. Thus far I've soaked it in kroil and tried to twist it CCW. Anyone know for certain the off direction before I put the cheater bar on it?
 
Clutch should unscrew clockwise, left handed threads on the clutch.
do you have the piston locked? Trying without it locked is almost impossible.
 
Jerry:
Instead of using a punch and hammer lately, I chuck up two 3/16" dia. pins in my bench vice on centers to fit into the clutch spider. That way I hold the clutch and trun the saw. Works much better.

Left hand threads on the Roper IIRC.
 
If the clutch unscrewed CCW, then it would unscrew itself as soon as the chain hits the wood. Those old clutches with the fibre shoes and the soft aluminum spiders and the thin sheet metal sides are easily destroyed by the hammer-and-punch method of clutch removal. For those clutches I keep a matched pair of 7/32 shanks that I insert under opposing shoes after carefully prying the shoes outward to avoid chipping the shoes when inserting the shanks. As stated above the vise jaws grip the shanks while the saw is turned while the piston is stopped. Remember to pull out some slack in the starter rope before you stop the piston so that when you retighten the clutch you are not pulling against the starter mechanism.
 
Little off topic here but where did you buy your Kroil? That stuff works great we used to use it at work but don't have it anymore and I can't find it local.
 
hey guys

i only use either a plastic piston stop or knotted starter cord.

regarding the kroil. i buy it mail order. google kroil and go to the first website that appears. they've got a google special going on right now.
 
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Little off topic here but where did you buy your Kroil? That stuff works great we used to use it at work but don't have it anymore and I can't find it local.
I think you can buy Kroil directly from Kano Corp. somewhere in Tennessee, i think. I bought some at a Cabelas or Gander Mtn in MN or ND for $3.50 per can a few years ago. Apparently it is great gun oil. The last can I bought at a local Fastenal for what I thought was an overpriced $6.60, but it turned out to be $16.50!
 
I had one of these saturday that would not go for anything. Tried 3 different chainsaw shops and they couldn't budge it. Wouldn't even respond to torching with mapp gas and kroil. Ended up tacking a nut to the outside and it popped right off with the impact wrench. Easy grinds and it's working. Had to do the same thing to the four countersunk screws to get the tank off. At least those are cheap standard screws. Gonna be making sure it gets greased threads on the clutch...
 
Heat and PB blaster have gotten some off for me


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
I had it hot enough that the kroil was vaporizing for several minutes and an overnight soaking. Still wouldnt budge with a big hammer and punch.
 
I did that enough that the face was denting. Perhaps if someone had it off in the last 15 yrs(or more) it might have been possible. At least it came off with the welder trick. Too bad they don't put wrench flats on them in the first place.
 

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